https://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41493&showall=1

Many of your questions are just a search away or in the tech section.

 

Thanks, I'll post there then. I saw that thread but the diagrams shown aren't exactly what I need and the others are old pics that have been removed.

 

it would be in your best interest to up date the charging system to the evo 32 amp as every bike shop has a regulator if you run the roads and your not stuck waiting on the mail for an 11 amp to show up

what you want is very easy to accomplish - draw it out on paper 8 colors should do it and a 20 amp plastic circuit braker but I will look for a diagram

 

yes, I updated it a while back to digital. Crane Cams I think. I had it done in 2000 so its been a while. but its updated to the 12v 30amp relay.

 

I made a diagram of what mine looks like at the moment...(Its all messed up can't get anything to work right).

so the colored one is how its set up right now which isn't doing me any good...

and a blank one in case anyone has any suggestions.

Thanks again guys.

 

I think John gives good advice and do as he says; I run an Evo charging system on all my Shovels.

That said, 32A for a chopper or stripped-down bike is complete overkill. If you do this, burn the headlightall the time or you'll be cookin' batteries.

 

Your color diagram shows the reg wire going to battery negative that is wrong it goes to battery positive.

 

yeah, my diagram was completely garbage...nothing worked right.

So, I updated it with this one...(hopefully everything is ok?)

let me know if anything is missing or incorrect. thanks guys

Also, silly question but won't the battery drain its charge if the voltage regulator is constantly on the positive terminal of the battery?

 

Also no path battery to ignition as drawn.

 

Couple of wrong wires again. No reg wire goes to battery with no breaker.
Some diagrams.
https://www.pinterest.com/carvel24/amf-shovelhead-diagrams/
On battery positive terminal, Reg wire, large wire to solenoid battery terminal, and a breaker. On breaker, wire to ignition switch. On ignition switch, lights (lower amp breaker than one on battery breaker optional, and I would switch the running lights), starter button, and ignition [can run threw kill switch on bars]. On starter button wire to Bosch relay terminal 86 and ground 85. From solenoid bat terminal [long stud], wire to 30 on bosch relay. From solenoid start terminal [little terminal] wire to bosch 87. From solenoid starter terminal [short stud], large wire to starter.

 

Couple of wrong wires again. No reg wire goes to battery with no breaker.
Some diagrams.
https://www.pinterest.com/carvel24/amf-shovelhead-diagrams/
On battery positive terminal, Reg wire, large wire to solenoid battery terminal, and a breaker. On breaker, wire to ignition switch. On ignition switch, lights (lower amp breaker than one on battery breaker optional, and I would switch the running lights), starter button, and ignition [can run threw kill switch on bars]. On starter button wire to Bosch relay terminal 87 and ground 85. From solenoid bat terminal [long stud], wire to 30 on bosch relay. From solenoid start terminal [little terminal] wire to bosch 87. From solenoid starter terminal [short stud], large wire to starter.

Thanks! heres the diagram with what you mentioned...

 

OOPs I was using the brain incorrectly starter button goes to 86 not 87. I have edited my post to correct that sorry for the mix up.

 

Hey, No problem! Thanks for clearing that up! I just edited the previous post and the wiring diagram as well.

 

Should I wire the brake light like that? Or should the orange wire connect to the white ignition switch wire?

 

I just dug this out, it was from when I wired my FXS a few years ago, I didn't draw in the cutout relays/fuse's & it has a hi/lo which you don't need but easy to use just a single switch..........hope it helps

 

Now lose the red wire between the solenoid bat stud and load side of the breaker, solenoid will need a battery size cable from bat positive to the solenoid bat terminal [long stud].
Also lose the breaker on the reg to bat positive terminal.
Green wire from the start button goes to the load side of the ignition switch, not to ground at terminal 85 on the Bosch. Orange wire also belongs on ignition load side.

 

Got it...hows this?

 

i wouldnt use a breaker from the regulator before the battery, but between the battery an the main feed to the switch, & why 2 brakers before the lights ?... do it simply & it's easier, in my drawing i didn't show them but you only need one or two on the whole bike really, you are not using as much as a stock bike after all

 

Thanks for the tip! I modified it now with what you recommended.

 

thats about right I'd say, ........but when you come to wire it, you might find that it will be neater if the + feed from the battery goes direct to the ignition switch with the 30a fuse/breaker in line,
& the heavy + cable going on it's own to the solenoid from the battery.
purely for a less messy routing,
that way you just have one feed to the switch distributing the power direct from there.
if you see what i mean and closer to the factory diagram as well,
see my diagram BELOW,
I have altered it to add the breakers and remover the idiot lights & hi/lo.
without the oil pressure light & switch you should fit an oil guage off of the rear rocker nut in the right side of the motor for visual safety but if you want a minimalist bike don't fit one

 

That's great to hear! And I like the cleaner wire routing! Tomorrow I'll sort it all out on the bike. If everything works (I hope) then I'll dedicate the time to Cutting, soldering, organizing and routing all the wires.

I also have the stock frame mounted wire distribution Block in back of the coil so maybe some wires can meet up there for a more tidy look.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

Wrong again.

 

Oh man...where did I go wrong?

 

If you have a Easyrider Tech Tips # 2. This has a bunch of easy to read schematics for different bikes . Covers Knuck Pan or shovel with different applications

 

if you get this heavy duty relay from W&W, you run the hi tension leads to the starter solenoid (not shown but between the relay & the starter motor) directly straight off of it for less wiring https://www.wwag.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/WebSite.woa/wa/DirectAction?page=!185973.

& THIS is how you wire it (& ANY relay) all up

 

oh man! thats right! the ground wire.

Thanks a bunch man! Thats a really nice relay as well! so here is my updated diagram with that ground start button taken care of.

 

Keep trying you only need one change on the pic in my post # 25. your last 2 pics posted made it worse.

 

keep trying you only need one change on the pic in my post # 25.

hmm...

 

Nope. Not needed, and not the way the factory does it. Only one mistake in this pic from post 25.

 

Either one of these?

 

I usually run a stator and alternator.

 

You have got 1/2 of the problem solved in this pic. Only a little left.

 

ok, how's this?

 

forget all the guessing games, I posted exactly what you want, why not use it ?.....

 

I will. I'm just curious, you bridged the little side pole on the starter solenoid to the battery positive terminal on the starter solenoid?

 

so that when the relay sends power via the hi-tension cable to the solenoid,
it at the same time (via the 'bridging' wire) 'excites' the solenoid so it engages the clutch throw out arm engaging the bendix to the ring gear,
at the same time it shunts the Hi-tension feed to the starter via the hi-tension shunting contacts within the dual function solenoid,
It performs the2 things at the same time, but seperatly so to speak from the same unit.
if this does not happen the starter will not spin & not turn the motor over,
which is the whole point of the solenoid.....
you are complicating it by wanting to use a small low tension relay instead of the stock harley type relay or the heavy duty small relay from W&W as shown to you in a previous post,...
as you do not seem to want to listen & just do it & keep asking various people the same questions repeatedly after being told how to do it I am out of here,

 

Only thing wrong with this pic is green wire to starter button should go to the white wire coming out of the ignition switch. As is starter button will always be hot. Wire the bike. Pete's in a hurry.

 

Only thing wrong with this pic is green wire to starter button should go to the white wire coming out of the ignition switch. As is starter button will always be hot. Wire the bike. Pete's in a hurry.

Holy smokes! I was way off!
Thanks man! I'll wire it up now! Guess I failed the exam though 😒

heres the final render: