There is a round plastic nut tighten that

 

X2
It's right under the choke knob, on the outside of the bracket. It's ribbed on the outside edge.

 

Vise Grips, no ,actually, my Shovel had a similar problem, I took the cable off and kinked the outer slightly(where you can't see ir to give the cable some"drag", it worked, 3 years later same cable, be gentle!

 

BTW, don't let the bike warm up with the choke, you will foul plugs. Use it to start the bike, then keep it alive with the throttle, while pushing in the choke knob. You probably have a throttle lock that you turn to hold the throttle open.

 

crazy is right. Lot's of guys use the enrichener as a fast idle during warm up.
Then at some point they take a look at their plugs, which are now sooty and think they are jetted too rich.

 

The knurled nut is the friction adjustment and there's a metal nut that clamps the cable to the bracket on the backside. I've seen a lot of cracked cable housings, (in the threads), because it was overtightened or just cracked due to age, vibration, etc. If the housing is cracked or split, the friction cannot be adjusted and the knob will not stay out on it's own. A new cable costs about $15 at the stealership.

 

Thanks, all.. I thought the knurled peice behind the knob was just part of the housing, this one has a plastic nut on the backside of the bracket. Everything I have read before swapping over to this carb said to very careful about overtightening the nut and to also be careful with the plastic fittig where the fuel line goes.. I will pull the cable out of the bracket and take a good look at it..
I have three different service manuals and many articles from American Iron on the C.V. carb and not one mentioned this..

 

Don't break it!

 

So my XL sporty choke cable has started slipping too. The crappy plastic knurled knob was tightened too tight or the threads were cross threaded. Buying a direct replacement sounds like a waste of time/money for the same crappy plastic threads.

What do you think about this universal Mikuni cable with metal threads and nuts. Has anyone custom fit this cable to a CV carb? Looks like the same end.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/400-243

 

My FXR does the same thing. I usually use the cruise control on the throttle to hold it for a minute, then loosen it to normal idle. My owners manual from Harley says to let it idle with the enricher out then ride about 3 miles like this. By the time I ride down the street it's already moved in... Bike is already warmed up by then anyway.

 

The enrichener is meant to be used when you start the bike and it works much better than using the throttle. You don't need to let the bike idle for long before you start riding- no more than a minute or so. It will not foul the plugs unless you leave it on for many miles. When I couldn't tighten mine any more I used one of those little spring loaded clips clamped behind the knob to hold it out til I got it replaced. Think I got that idea from this forum.

 

Yea, Ive always used the enricher too, adjusting it throughout the ride. But I ride year round and at night working graveyard. It gets and stays pretty cold here at night. During the winter, I only can slide my enricher in halfway or itll die. If Im going hiway speeds in winter, the cold air keeps the motor too cold to fully warm up I guess.

I cut a chunk of vacuum hose to fill the space, then slit it down the side so I could snap it over the enricher shaft. That way I dont have to look when riding, and I can close the enricher to the half way point and it bottoms out on the vaccuum line.

 

I have to agree with the too rich statement. I know I'm running a little to lean but I don't over heat and get great MPG (51 hwy) and mine won't high idle without the enricher when it's cold. I found the friction adjustment by accident on mine and have no trouble with it not staying out now.

Mutt

 

Wooden clothes pin. Hang it on your ear when engine warms up. peace