These are pretty easy to install...

Electronic Timer Assembly in polished billet finish for 1936-1969 Big Twins. These polished billet electronic timers for generator style engines were developed to accommodate the S&S Super Stock Ignition system in complete S&S generator style engines.It can also be used with other alternator style electronic ignitions (CCW rotation) as well. This timer comes with a reverse rotation circuit breaker gear installed for correct rotation direction for modern electronic ignitions. The S&S billet timer must be used with reverse rotation circuit breaker drive gear in crankcase. Made of billet aluminum and polished to a show finish. Designed to be installed and removed without removing the cylinder head. Fits all S&S, stock, and other aftermarket generator crankcases for 1936-'69 engines.

Flat. . . . . . . . 55-1269
Domed. . . .106-4622

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My STD fromt head has a fin broken on the bottom.... to justify it it was done road side... OEM drops right in.

 

distributors

not to split hairs, but I'm assuming that you don't mean "distributor", even though there have been one or more made in the aftermarket. sorry, just a peeve of mine: it's no more a distributor than an evo is a panhead.

anyways, in case you haven't thought about a magneto as an option, you should.

Similar to what Dragstews posted, there was one made by Spyke, but it wasn't reverse rotation. but i don't think they are made anymore.

My personal opinion, since we are talking about STD heads anyways. I'd simply shave a fin or two just enough to install a stock or stock style circuit breaker, as opposed to locking myself in to some semi proprietary parts that might pose a problem if something failed in the middle of nowhere on a sunday................. And it would be alot cheaper too. And if you do it right, no one would know the difference in the head anyways.

 

Man, $500 or start breaking fins is what I'm reading...

Thanks for the responses.

 

Don't open up that 'distributor vs timer vs circuit breaker' discussion Scott! While I agree with you, it'll turn this into a 9 page fight. I apologize to the purists out there.

I wanted to stay with simple points and it appears that fin-breaking will be the route to go.

Again, thanks

 

The Spyke unit is still made. I bought one just a year or so ago. The reverse rotation is not needed with all ignitions. Spyke and PowerArc ignitions will work with clockwise rotation. Also, don't you also need to change a gear in the cam chest to work with the reverse gear on the distributor/timer/circuit-breaker?

-Craig

 

The Spyke unit is also a two piece design...

If the stock rotation (Photo below,The Two outside gears are OEM..The one on the left is out of a 69, On the right, my 52, Middle is a S&S reverse) ....

If your going to be using the OEM gear... You will need a ign. system that is reverse in the dist...

I'm running one on the 52... It has the OEM C.B. drive gear..

The dist. I have does require the head to be removed to install..
It is not a two piece design...One piece...

The ign plate is a reverse...

If you did the swap to the two piece and the S&S C.B.gear and wanted to run points... You can use the 70 to 78 advance unit and plate...It would be a bolt in deal.

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leoj,
Careful with that ax, Eugene! All you need to do is a little grinding on the fins. If you take a little off so the fins match the profile of the early pan heads, you'll be able to install or remove a stock timer (good old points!) with out pulling the front head.

Geo.

 

Why not spend an hour and remove the front head and do it right or does your frame prohibit that?

 

I suppose we should ask leoj. if this is an assembled bike or not. One hour would be the new worlds record if this is an assembled bike .

What is the situation leoj, - is this bike already assembled or is the motor sitting on the bench?

Geo.

 

Bike is assembled - completely my fault for not checking first as I ASSUMED, I could drop it in after assembly (the motor builder didn't say a word to caution me).

You guys aren't helping - both philosphies (pull head vs grind fins) have merit.

I'll contact Spyke, see how tall the shaft section is, see if it's short enough to save me.

Thanks for the input, all of you!

 

leo,
Have you tried with a stock timer yet? I just now looked at a pan motor with STD early replica pan heads with a stock timer in my hand, to measure as well as do a visual, and it looks like it may be a go. You'll need to break the timer down by removing the retainer clip so you can remove the base assembly, so you're only working with the shaft and housing. I don't know if your STD heads are built with the same castings as the ones I'm looking at though? This is the STD head I'm talking about -
STD 08001120 - Replica Front, Panhead Cylinder Bolt Pattern, Standard Bore.

Geo.

 

View attachment 125058

I'm using an repop distributor from VTwin. CCE rocker boxes preclude moving the head without pulling the motor.

 

Were it me, I'd pull the head. It not hard to do and doesn't involve permanent damage to your motor. Someone down the road will thank you for doing it right the first time. I hate it when I come across previous owner shortcuts (fuckups).

 

I feel your pain. But I'd either find a two piece timer that you can assemble in place (think building a ship in a bottle, no not really that bad!) or yank the head and bitch slap the guy who put it together next time you see him. But no way in hell I'd be grinding those pristine Heads!

 

If you break down an OEM timer by removing the retaining clip underneath it wont fit ?

 

Putting this tidbit out there for the collective knowledge - received from the friendly people at VulcanWorks.

"our distributor is the exact size as a stock auto advance distributor.
There is one fin on a STD pan that needs to be ground to the shape of a
stock head."

 

On the STD heads in question, the bottom two fins have plenty of clearence; a little bit of careful grinding (or filing) on the third and possibly the fourth one up from the bottom will do it. If you are careful and blend them in you won't even notice the difference. I do my best to preserve the old original parts and you won't see me snapping off fins with a pair of pliers or hack-sawing off relay mounts, but I'm pretty liberal on modifications to the re-pop stuff .

Geo.

 

Epilogue:

I ground back the bottom two fins and a stock unit drops in nicely - no real aesthetic damage. I decided removing the head would resolve the issue for this time only. Any future distributor changes would require head removal again so I'm good with going that route.

Thanks all of you for the input!

 

Epilogue:

I ground back the bottom two fins and a stock unit drops in nicely - no real aesthetic damage. I decided removing the head would resolve the issue for this time only. Any future distributor changes would require head removal again so I'm good with going that route.

Thanks all of you for the input!

Got a picture of how much you cut?