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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
gonna pull the S&S of my '70 ironhead and replace it with a zenith as the S&S seems to be too much for it-
gonna rebuild the zenith before I put it back on as the acc. pump seems kinda aged and am sure the rest of the gaskets / seals could use freshened up.
Who / where do I get the best kit for this carb? What main jet should I be running at my elevation (Miles City MT, I'll have to find out what that elevation is, or does that even matter that much??) Any special tools needed of does this carb disassemble with regular hand tools (no special wreches for jets or anything) will the kit include info on setting float height and such?? thanks-
 

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JPCYCLES.COM sells rebuild kits for $38. Make sure you have the right carb for the sporty 38mm bore VS 40mm for the big twin. If you try to run the big twin carb you will still be over carbed. The only pain with the stock Bendix carb is that it is a "Fixed Main Jet" carb. This means you are stuck with that jetting and can either carry around a few main jets @ $7.00 each for different altitudes or install an "Adjustable Main Jet" kit. This kit allows you to simply turn the adjusement knob in to lean and out to richen the carb up. The kit is a deal @ $40 but requires a special tap to modify the carb (another $35). I now run a adjustable main jet Bendix on my 56 Pan/Shovel and love it. I can go from Seattle=Sea Level to a pass going into Yellowstone @10,000 feet, without doing any more that reaching down turning the main jet in a little at a time to compensate for altitude changes. A new adjustable Bendix sells for around $260. There is a draw back to all this though. There's a learning curve on how much to turn the adjuster in to lean the carb out when going up in altitude. In the begining when the bike started going rich I would turn the jet in 1/4 turn, run about 1/2 mile, do a plug chop (kill it at speed /Not at Idle) then check the plug to check for the right mixture. After a while I was confortable enough to just turn it in and keep going. One time I hit a Bump just when I was turning the jet in and wound up going 1/2-3/4 turn in (Lean) and kept going about 1/2 mile untill the bike started backfiring. End result was a burned Valve. Newer CV carbs are "altitude compisated" meaning they automaticly adjust themselfs for altitudn changes. All of this is only a problem if you are going to be making fairly big (3,000 ft) altitude changes. I'm surrounded by mountain ranges so it's a fact of life for me. All that said I still sware by my bendix carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the info - gonna look into getting the parts and the adj. main jet - this is my favorite time of the year to ride so I want to get this thing going - how do I tell if it is a 38 or 40 mm, is it listed on the carb somewhere??
 

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Mesure to bore at the manifold end. 38mm = 1.496" or about 1 1/2".. 40mm = 1.5748 of a little over 1 9/16". I looked on two Bendix carbs that I have and there is a small raised boss the size of a dime on the top air cleaner end of the carb. my catalog list a part # with a prefix, unfortunately neither of my carbs has that prefix; they have the # 2715572 buy no prefix (B)or(BT). You might need the throttle cable bracket for the bendik also, as the Bendix is a single carb Pull type carb. J&P also lists them.
 
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