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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
have a XLCR fitted with a kicker and have always wondered, whether the kick start was genuine factory fitted or retro fitted later using 79 XLCH parts

it all fits perfectly, the folding kicker fits in around the master cylinder and the kicker, brake linkages exhausts and a few other bits are all black chromed
 

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have a XLCR fitted with a kicker and have always wondered, whether the kick start was genuine factory fitted or retro fitted later using 79 XLCH parts

it all fits perfectly, the folding kicker fits in around the master cylinder and the kicker, brake linkages exhausts and a few other bits are all black chromed
How about a picture? Everyone loves a CR.
 
G

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I'm also a believer......
Talk about low miles........:eek:

Remember this a few months ago...???

Up for auction is a 1984 Harley Davidson XR-1000 Motorcycle. This bike was delivered to Thurnalls Harley Davidson in Clarksville Indiana. Due to slow sales at the time, the motorcycle remained at Thurnalls warehouse in its shipping crate. Mr Thurnall passed in 2003, and in 2007 the bike along with other motorcycle related items were purchased by the current owner. When the bike was transferred in 2007 a small C shaped cut was made in the crate so the local sheriff could inspect the VIN number. Other than that, the Motorcycle has been undisturbed in its crate. I was able to take some pictures by inserting my camera through the C shaped hole. We have a clear Ky title in the current owners name showing 3 miles. Local pickup, is preferred, with payment of the balance at that time. We will ship if payment methods are acceptable.





It was sold on eBay, the winning bid was $30,000



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Back when CR's were on the dealer's floor, they couldn't sell 'em for cost, so when the dealers discounted them, tinkerers snapped them up because they wouldn't feel bad cutting and pasting the parts. Many got chopped new just for the motor. Others got ridden a few times and parked. The CR was way ahead of its time but it is not the experience the seasoned Harley rider is looking for.
 

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The first few XLCRs that arrived for the dealership i worked in all had engines tagged as "quiet" engines. H-D was pulling the best running and quietest Sportster engines off the test stand and designating them for XLCR use.
I set up all the new bikes so I was the first one to ride them. We would disconnect the speedo and do about a 20 mile loop to test everything, then take them back and wash them for the floor. I got a ticket on a new XLCR for doing over 115mph. Apparently a couple cops in a car were getting on the freeway as I went by and they chased me for a few miles. I never knew they were there until i got off and rolled up to a stop light. They claimed they were running at over 115 for several miles and couldn't catch me. I didn't even think I was going all that fast, just having fun. That ticket cost me $300 in '77 dollars! I could have bought a new XLCR in the crate for $2150 but decided I would rather spend my cash on other things. I didn't want a Sportster. Not because I didn't like them, but because I spent 80% of my working hours repairing them. '80s AMF Sportsters were riddled with problems and I did tons of warranty work. It paid well but made me really dislike them.
 

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Crappy picture, I bought this 77 XLCR new in 1978 from Central HD in Overland Park ,KS for $2900. Put about 3500 miles on it and then traded it in on a new 79 Lowrider. I haven't seen one since.
 

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The first few XLCRs that arrived for the dealership i worked in all had engines tagged as "quiet" engines. H-D was pulling the best running and quietest Sportster engines off the test stand and designating them for XLCR use.
I set up all the new bikes so I was the first one to ride them. We would disconnect the speedo and do about a 20 mile loop to test everything, then take them back and wash them for the floor. I got a ticket on a new XLCR for doing over 115mph. Apparently a couple cops in a car were getting on the freeway as I went by and they chased me for a few miles. I never knew they were there until i got off and rolled up to a stop light. They claimed they were running at over 115 for several miles and couldn't catch me..
So the engine was nicely broken in when the customer got it.
 
G

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My thoughts also....^^^

100 MPH on a motor out of the box may be a bit extreme for Break-In.....:eek:

The S&S boys got it going on for recommendations for break-in:

Correct break-in will assure longer engine life and will prevent unnecessary engine damage.​

A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.
B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.
C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.
D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.
E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in.
Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph.
Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles. CAUTION - Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.
G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.
H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.
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Well.... So much for that....
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The Augusta (Georgia) HD shop had a new one sitting in the back in 1982. They got tired of trying to sell it and moved it back into a storage area. I owned 3 when I lived in Cleveland, OH in the early-mid 80s. All of them were parts bikes by the time I got them. The owners all said the same thing, they hated to ride them and over time they were robbed for repair parts and/or pieces were sold to get cash for other things. No one else wanted them and I managed to piece together two complete but not original bikes out of the parts.
 
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