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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took the bike to Sturgis. Guess it didn't want to ride the black hills as bad as I did. I never got it running. Rented a beat up dyna on the cheap and rode the piss out of it all week long. Had a blast.

Now, its time to fix the problem. its only firing on one cylinder. I expected that with the mallory, not so much once I switched to the magneto. Checked the cap, put in new points, new coil, condensor, wires, everything. and its still only sparking on one side.

so, I'm pulling it apart. saddens me to do it, but work schedule is stacked heavy for the next few months, so it'll be an early winter tear apart. Sending the mag back to morris for testing and repairing. Cylinders have no crosshatching left and need a hone, needs new rings, exhaust spigots need work...

And I'm on the hunt for horsepower.

I was thinking of bumping up to 3 5/8ths cylinders and swapping my heads out for a set of STDs. figured that'd solve the power problems and exhaust leak while the mag was getting work.

I'm already running outside oilers, and I'm sure the delkron case can handle the extra horses. Would I need to have the cases bored for the larger cylinders? is the base bolt spacing the same? Any other pitfalls I should look out for?

Thanks guys
 

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I like the new S&S panheads, plus, S.T.D. is on the skids so panheads might be hard to find lately. You're gonna need to bore your cases, or you can just buy a set of big bores. I guess with a generator you can't really get cheap cases so I'd prolly bore 'em.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I like the new S&S panheads, plus, S.T.D. is on the skids so panheads might be hard to find lately. You're gonna need to bore your cases, or you can just buy a set of big bores. I guess with a generator you can't really get cheap cases so I'd prolly bore 'em.
I'd like to keep the delkron cases. they're awfully beefy, which is confidence inspiring. I'll start the search for a machine shop once I finish collecting parts. I'm supposed to go check a buddy's barn this weekend full of "old harley shit he wants gone..." I'm hoping for an old set of cylinders in there.

I like the S&S heads, but I don't like those different rocker arms, and I prefer the 3 bolt exhaust of the STDs. They're going pretty cheap on egay recently, and was hoping to score a set. I'm hoping they're real and not knockoffs.
 

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The S&S heads have a much higher level of engineering, and ALL come finished with nice ports, where the S.T.D.s are rough all over and individually ported/setup, so it's a crap shoot what yours will look like. If you get 'em cheap enough then I guess it's OK, but the S&S are a higher quality product, IMO.

BTW, avoid those asian cylinders like the plague! I've seen 'em broken all the way around and hanging by the motormount bolts! Use the money you save on the Ebay heads to buy S&S, they are WAY better!
 

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THE closer you leace it to stock the more dependable it will be. going stroker only creates problems. get that mag out and put a stock dist. in...... JMO
 

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THE closer you leace it to stock the more dependable it will be. going stroker only creates problems. get that mag out and put a stock dist. in...... JMO
Really? Better tell that to my stroker then cause there's around 40k trouble free miles on its lower end. It depends on how well it was setup.
 

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THE closer you leace it to stock the more dependable it will be. going stroker only creates problems. get that mag out and put a stock dist. in...... JMO
A properly maintained stroker can be just as reliable as anything else. Usually the people that say things like this have never owned a big motor or got one that was mistreated before they took it on.

He's talking bigger bore anyway, not stroking. A bigger bore is actually BETTER because it makes the motor itself closer to square, which generally gives a better hp/tq powerband. The only disadvantage would be if he had stock cases that were already weak and the boring would thin out the sides, but that's not the case as Delkrons are made to accept pretty much the biggest size jugs that they make.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
THE closer you leace it to stock the more dependable it will be. going stroker only creates problems. get that mag out and put a stock dist. in...... JMO
If i was going for outright dependability, I'd go pick up a new twin cam with a warranty.

as far as ignition goes, I was running a mallory, and after two blown modules, three bad coils, and a shorted out battery, I wanted something better. The mag is getting its fair shake, it was a craigslist find, i got what I paid for, and it should do fine once its repaired and timed right.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but few guys on here are running truly stock bikes, and rarely does the search for more power and increased reliability go hand in hand...
 

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onvaction, I've been building HD's for over 30 years, dependablity and high output mods. don't go togather you end up giveing something up, to gain something. A good combo. for you would be to build a 93 incher 4.5 stroke with 3.625 jugs I've built many of these over the years and they work great and will last a fairly long time if you take care of it.
 

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If you build a big motor RIGHT and treat it well, it will last just fine. Stroking does lower the safe redline, and can lead to faster top-end wear, but it doesn't need to. Mostly I've seen rubber mounts (like FXRs) that were stroked wearing out their top ends fast. That's because rubber mounts allow you to ride far more aggressively than solid mounts. A solid mount will be so uncomfortable at 5-7k rpms that it will rarely reach that high, where a rubber mount will do it everytime you ride. If you stroke a solid mount AND gear it really tall to keep it low revving (where all of your newly built stroker power lives!), it will lead a long and happy life.

BTW, for longevity, I suggest you avoid Twincams and use EVOs. I have seen way too many Twinkies that had shifted flywheels, trashed cam chests, sloppy crank bearings, ETC. That's why I stick with EVOs, they can be built just a big, for less money and have none of the twinkies inherent weakness. For just the price of reliability upgrades like gear drive, crank welding, etc. I can build a complete 90 something inch EVO and KNOW that it'll last.

ABTW, Big bores do affect longevity, at least somewhat. The larger the span across a piston, the more unstable it becomes. Also the more detonation prone it becomes. The detonation issue worsens the rocking issue, and can cause early wear and death. With a stroker, as long as you reduce the operating RPM, you will not have any change in piston speed, but with a big bore you get the drawbacks no matter what.

That being said, I still prefer bore to stroke for most applications. I'm pretty rev-happy when I ride, and a big bore just seems to wing itself to higher revs way happier than a similar sized stroker. Old bikes like pans are one of my exceptions. They don't want to rev high anyway and are always solid mounts. Touring is another time when strokers make sense, IMO.
 

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Horsepower comes with revs, real power i e torque comes with stroke.
And the question becomes top speed or acceleration?
But to have both í would recomend 4 1/2 crank and 3 13/16 bore, with the Delkron cases it would not be a problem.
But it all depends on compression and cam selection.
But i´m biased, thats what i´m running on my shovel and it´s hopefully as long living as it was as a s&s 93 sidewinder.
But it´s plenty powerful compared to the 93" it was before.
 

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That's what my EVO is, 4.5"x3.8125" 103". It loafs down the road when touring and flat out flies when I want it to. my other motor is a 3.75 x 4.625 103", and it seems a little punchier, but it has ported stock heads where the bigger bore one has S.T.D.s, so that might explain it.
 

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Well you can build about anything. I have 3 pans myself 74 inch B grind 6 volt dist have been all over the country. My 80 inch B grind 12 volt conversion is just as dependable. The 93 inch with the STD heads is a nice hot rod with the B grind and still only 6 volt dist. So I guess you can make it yours just know your machine shop and break it in the way your going to ride it. Oh I use S&S carbs the B and the E styles. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
onvaction, I've been building HD's for over 30 years, dependablity and high output mods. don't go togather you end up giveing something up, to gain something. A good combo. for you would be to build a 93 incher 4.5 stroke with 3.625 jugs I've built many of these over the years and they work great and will last a fairly long time if you take care of it.
I was looking really close at that exact combination. I'd need new wheels, and rods, but it'd be worth it if it got me up and going. Have you built one with those T&O torquemaster wheels? at 275lbs I like have the torque readily available, and I've heard some good things about them. you have a dog in that fight?
 

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It's not that big motors are inherently unreliable, it's that they get built individually and therefore have spotty quality. Also they get beat on way more than a lower powered motor, just because it's so much fun to do that. The guy who keeps his motor small and slow for reliability does everything else with reliability in mind (like riding and maintaining it).

A big motor will make more power with less stress, and should have an easier time of staying alive. I get better mileage from big motors too, because I can ride with less throttle opening at a given speed and I've geared my bike higher so the revs stay low. With a 60 hp 80" motor, you'd have to wind it all the way open to pass a truck on a hill, but with a mild low compression 103" you just barely turn the throttle for the same degree of acceleration.
 

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I would definitely take it to a reputable shop. Isn't Andrew Rosa still around New York?
 

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Onvacation, yes I have built motors with TO torque master wheels but those were built for baggers pulling trailers, they store a lot of energy but take longer to rev up, not what you want if you want to get in the R's quicker.
I like S&S wheels better as they are forged, What are you planing to do with your bike? ( what kind of riding are you going to be doing) how much does your bike weigh?

66XLH, Wow lots of miss information. I we build very large bore short stoke motors every day for NHRA Pro Stock motorcycle racing, and big bores are very stable, stock bore stokers wear out a lot faster. Piston speeds are a function of stroke not RPM, the longer the stroke the faster the piston speed
it's called rod to stroke ratios.
 
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