[caffeine]

so let me start by saying i have never rebuilt a motor before. ever. the reason i decided to do this was to learn and because i wanted to. I figured since i setup the new garage and had this laying around now would be the best time over winter. I have a little bit of common sense a bunch of manuals, a micrometer and a BFH.

if anyone sees me doing something stupid, please let me know..im pretty much going exactly by the book as far as specs are concerned...i tore most of it down and everything looks pretty good, it probably didnt need to be tore down but now i'll be sure it wont need to be (its either going to blow up or run forever after im done with it!!!) and cant blame anyone else if it does....

here is the tranny inner cover ear...should i just replace it or can it be fixed?
its not bad and not cracked all the way through...but it bothers me. a lot.

here is what i started with.......

66Tr6R with T120 head.

 

[caffeine]

i love stripped bolts. i drilled it out a little and slotted it with a dremel to get it out....

gahhh a gasket (or lack of) nightmare...this was all that was there for gaskets...on the whole motor.

 

[caffeine]

the stud/bolts that the stator coil mounts to are tweaks from sitting on its side without a primary cover...what bitch to get that out. had to use a BFH then unscbolted the studs fromthe case with the stator coil still on the studs.

 

[caffeine]

nothing special here. but a pic of the other side. a snapon puller set took care of what needed to be done here....

chain tensioner was toast and broke apart in my hand.

my "parts washer"...yeah...you love it.

 

[caffeine]

here is what a triumph motor looks like in a bazillion pieces that i am clueless on how to put back together...

you dont see the rest because i didnt have the special tools to remote the camshaft pinions and crankshaft pinions. ill work on that tomorrow now that the rest is apart.

here are my problems so far.

tranny layshaft

stupid studs.

clutch center...........this was my fault with the puller.....DOH. shoulda listened to the manual when it said it its on too tight to wait unti lya take the gear box out and just pop it through with a mallet later..(which i did...after i broke it)

thats it for the day.....

 

[zgears]

do you have the Hughie Hancox video? i strongly recommend it. ill be posting some rebuild pics soon.

 

[Weyland]

here is the tranny inner cover ear...should i just replace it or can it be fixed?
its not bad and not cracked all the way through...but it bothers me. a lot.

Send that and anything else you deem necessary.
Be my pleasure to help.

Best,

Weyland

 

[VA Rebel]

You're doing the right thing by totally rebuilding. Best bet on removing the timing gears and crank pinion is to use the correct tools. $100 should buy both.

 

[Matt D]

Mate, very important!, don't forget to clean out the sludge traps on the crank. Also use a good sealant with the gaskets, 'Blue Holymar' ( I think that's how it's spelt ) is very good. And then when it still leaks oil just remember that if it doesn't then there is something wrong with it!

 

[JasonMcElroy]

Rob,

Nothing wrong with those stator studs if the threads are OK. Just clean up the sharp spots where the grooves are and straighten them out. When you reinstall, be sure that there is an even gap (around .070) all the way around between the rotor and stator. Adjustments are made gently with a hammer (with the stator removed).

The cam gears don't necessarily need to come off. The bushings that the bear on don't require replace but once or twice in the motor's life. If there isn't a whole lot of play, you can leave them. If you must, buy the tool for the job as was previously mentioned.

Got your note re: fasteners. I don't even fuck around with the CEI and Whit stuff anymore. I routinely tap or helicoil all the cover thread bosses to 1/4-20 if they aren't already. SAE fasteners are easier to find and you can get better quality for less money. Plus, fine threads into the the world's poorest aluminum wasn't a brilliant idea in the first place.

Every day was Guinness Day at the factory it seems.

Have fun.

Jason

 

[caffeine]

Rob,

Nothing wrong with those stator studs if the threads are OK. Just clean up the sharp spots where the grooves are and straighten them out. When you reinstall, be sure that there is an even gap (around .070) all the way around between the rotor and stator. Adjustments are made gently with a hammer (with the stator removed).

The cam gears don't necessarily need to come off. The bushings that the bear on don't require replace but once or twice in the motor's life. If there isn't a whole lot of play, you can leave them. If you must, buy the tool for the job as was previously mentioned.

Got your note re: fasteners. I don't even fuck around with the CEI and Whit stuff anymore. I routinely tap or helicoil all the cover thread bosses to 1/4-20 if they aren't already. SAE fasteners are easier to find and you can get better quality for less money. Plus, fine threads into the the world's poorest aluminum wasn't a brilliant idea in the first place.

Every day was Guinness Day at the factory it seems.

Have fun.

Jason

thanks jason, I dont have my manual in front of me at work..how much play in the cam bushings? i know there is a little but not much at all. being as how the rest of the motor was in good shape i think that they should be ok.

1/4-20 sounds good to me.

whats a good source other than rask for those replacement tranny parts, etc?

 

[ol_scratch]

I with on the replace with SAE fasteners. My Lightning engine I rebuilt has all SAE iodized allen heads. The Royal Star will be the same, and the Tiger too. The only two bikes that won't is my AJS and the NorBSA only because I 'm going for period with them. IT WILL make your life easier.

Good luck, glad your taking it on.

Oh, and be sure you're alone in the garage when you try to first set the timing.