[blktopbandit]

i need to update the charging system on this thing, and i need some direction. here is a few pics of what i got now. i was getting ready to order a capasitor but before i do i thought i would ask here and maybe save me some time and money.
the bike is not charging the battery and causing it to run like shit when you use the headlight.
i am ready to re-wire the whole thing if i have to. i only need headlight and tailight.

what do you guys suggest i start? keeping the batt and adding a capasitor was what i was thinking but what would i need to do to get charge to the batt?

i know this has been asked a million times but i'm not sure if the shit on my bike is original or not. thanks b.t.

 

[blktopbandit]

ok thanks guys,
here's what i got so far...
the bike is a 65 500 12v

the batt ran down from running the headlite(in the rain)
i charged the batt, and it seems to hold a charge.
it starts up fine after charging with a batt charger.
it will not fire with out the batt being hooked up.
batt shows 12.5 (on bench)
when i start it it shows 11.7(tailite is on)
so it seems to be the charging system, do i replace the rotor and stator? and... /or do i add a batt. alternative system?

again, thanks for the help, i'm dyin to ride this thing a little more and less pushing. ha

 

[blktopbandit]

ok, what about the component under the triple tree - with the charred black & melted away fin .. is there a wire going to a small brass part in the center of it ??yes, but the part wiggles around inside the heat finned deal, and no way to tighten.

that brass piece is the "regulator", as-stock ..

and again, if it went, you could have hurt that battery from overcharging, over time .. those 2 components are "downstream" of your rotor/stator, so .. I'd want to know the battery checked out (beyond just charging it & trying it ..) and did you do like Pops said & rev it up & see if the voltage rises ??
yes, reved it up and it's still the same. 12.8 on batt. with no load, then start it up and it drops to 11.54, and no change at all when you rev it.

and for checking, or running; it's best to have the taillight And headlight switched completely separately from the ignition, so you can run with no drain but the ignition ..

if you're going to just start swapping parts, the Tympanium is about $40 & replaces rectifier & diode .. the (Sparx) rotor/stator are over 200 ..
is there a way to check voltage on the rotor/stator coming out of the motor? volt check?

also, as to "do i add a batt. alternative system?" .. adding a capacitor beside the battery, or in place of it, will not increase your voltage At all .. the capacitor merely stores enough juice to fire the coils while kicking thru, when you have no battery ..

.

thanks for the help