[Dragon]

i need to update the charging system on this thing, and i need some direction. here is a few pics of what i got now. i was getting ready to order a capasitor but before i do i thought i would ask here and maybe save me some time and money.
the bike is not charging the battery and causing it to run like shit when you use the headlight.
i am ready to re-wire the whole thing if i have to. i only need headlight and tailight.

what do you guys suggest i start? keeping the batt and adding a capasitor was what i was thinking but what would i need to do to get charge to the batt?

i know this has been asked a million times but i'm not sure if the shit on my bike is original or not. thanks b.t.

ok, you've got the stock components there ..

top left pic is the bridge rectifier, it turns AC into DC current .. the top right pic shows the heat sink for the zener diode, which simply dumps excess DC voltage into the heat sink .. however, it looks like it has gotten real hot & maybe even is disconnected ?? is that big red wire just hangin loose with a ring terminal at the end ?? it's supposed to go (usually with a spade connector) to a brass piece in the hole just above the mount bolt, in the middle of that heat sink ..

if that zener's gone or toasted or disconnected, you may have cooked your battery or shorted it, from over-charging ..

but as to simplifying your wiring you can replace both those components with a small solid-state box (4 wires) called a Tympanium or Podtronic ..

note 2 wires in from your charging, 2 out to battery & ground ..

if it is still running with a shot battery, the rotor/stator (inside your primary) are apparently still charging .. there are modern components to replace the rotor & stator but no need for that till they're dead ..

I think something went on at that zener to melt that heatsink, you may can simply wire it with the tymp. & a good battery & all be fine ..

or, this one may be easier to visualise, the Tympanium goes in place of the "Mitymax" .. and "can leave out battery", if you replaced it with a capacitor ..

.

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[Dragon]

cant help ya, but i will buy it!!!!

thought you said you couldnt help ..

if he has a marginal charging system, "tymp & capacitor & 3-5 wires" wont get it & run lights ..

one thing at a time .. tympanium & good battery, then maybe try without battery ..

change 3 or 4 separate components at once you'll never know what you fixed & what good part you threw out ..

.

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[Dragon]

ok, what about the component under the triple tree - with the charred black & melted away fin .. is there a wire going to a small brass part in the center of it ??

that brass piece is the "regulator", as-stock ..

and again, if it went, you could have hurt that battery from overcharging, over time .. those 2 components are "downstream" of your rotor/stator, so .. I'd want to know the battery checked out (beyond just charging it & trying it ..) and did you do like Pops said & rev it up & see if the voltage rises ??

and for checking, or running; it's best to have the taillight And headlight switched completely separately from the ignition, so you can run with no drain but the ignition ..

if you're going to just start swapping parts, the Tympanium is about $40 & replaces rectifier & diode .. the (Sparx) rotor/stator are over 200 ..

also, as to "do i add a batt. alternative system?" .. adding a capacitor beside the battery, or in place of it, will not increase your voltage At all .. the capacitor merely stores enough juice to fire the coils while kicking thru, when you have no battery ..

.

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[Dragon]

thanks for the help

...

ok, ... ..

"yes, reved it up and it's still the same. 12.8 on batt. with no load, then start it up and it drops to 11.54, and no change at all when you rev it. .... is there a way to check voltage on the rotor/stator coming out of the motor? volt check?

that's plenty to run it on, I'm still wary of the true problem being the damaged zener diode in that heat sink .. or if you wouldnt just steadily drain the battery ..

that the zener is wiggling around is likely why it arced & burnt away the fin there, it has to be grounded, that's a hot lead going into a big resistor & its heat sink, dumping excess volts ..

and the rotor/stator on the drive end of the crank makes AC voltage, I'm sure there's a value to test for but I dont know what it is off top of the head ..

I'll hunt for some more answers & also drop you a pm with some more thoughts ..

.

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