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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i need to update the charging system on this thing, and i need some direction. here is a few pics of what i got now. i was getting ready to order a capasitor but before i do i thought i would ask here and maybe save me some time and money.
the bike is not charging the battery and causing it to run like shit when you use the headlight.
i am ready to re-wire the whole thing if i have to. i only need headlight and tailight.

what do you guys suggest i start? keeping the batt and adding a capasitor was what i was thinking but what would i need to do to get charge to the batt?

i know this has been asked a million times but i'm not sure if the shit on my bike is original or not. thanks b.t.
 

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cant help ya, but i will buy it!!!!
 

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Yank it all out and start over.
I've got the perfect diagram (thanks Dragon) that I can send you when I get home.
 

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The little bit I know about electrical may not be any help, but I'll try. A capaciter stores charge. Your bsa should run fine without a battery, but a capaciter will help when you kickstart because there is enough electricity stored up to give it the boost it needs. When you add lights to the equation you need a battery or some sort of battery eliminator (like a magneto or box). A capaciter alone isn't enough on the british bikes I don't think. Again I'm no expert. One trick is to buy the smallest battery you can find. Honda Scooters from the 80's have tiny little batteries and they actually take a beating well. I know a couple of guys that run them in their cafe racers with a lot of success.

If I'm wrong about any of this stuff please chime in and correct me, I'm not an electrician.
 

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blktopbandit said:
i need to update the charging system on this thing, and i need some direction. here is a few pics of what i got now. i was getting ready to order a capasitor but before i do i thought i would ask here and maybe save me some time and money.
the bike is not charging the battery and causing it to run like shit when you use the headlight.
i am ready to re-wire the whole thing if i have to. i only need headlight and tailight.

what do you guys suggest i start? keeping the batt and adding a capasitor was what i was thinking but what would i need to do to get charge to the batt?

i know this has been asked a million times but i'm not sure if the shit on my bike is original or not. thanks b.t.
ok, you've got the stock components there ..

top left pic is the bridge rectifier, it turns AC into DC current .. the top right pic shows the heat sink for the zener diode, which simply dumps excess DC voltage into the heat sink .. however, it looks like it has gotten real hot & maybe even is disconnected ?? is that big red wire just hangin loose with a ring terminal at the end ?? it's supposed to go (usually with a spade connector) to a brass piece in the hole just above the mount bolt, in the middle of that heat sink ..

if that zener's gone or toasted or disconnected, you may have cooked your battery or shorted it, from over-charging ..

but as to simplifying your wiring you can replace both those components with a small solid-state box (4 wires) called a Tympanium or Podtronic ..

note 2 wires in from your charging, 2 out to battery & ground ..



if it is still running with a shot battery, the rotor/stator (inside your primary) are apparently still charging .. there are modern components to replace the rotor & stator but no need for that till they're dead ..

I think something went on at that zener to melt that heatsink, you may can simply wire it with the tymp. & a good battery & all be fine ..

or, this one may be easier to visualise, the Tympanium goes in place of the "Mitymax" .. and "can leave out battery", if you replaced it with a capacitor ..



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run no battery, make it as simple as possible... tympanium and 3-5 wires... you know./..
 

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"the bike is not charging the battery"

Prolly a dumb statement by me but why not start by testing the charging system itself. Battery should read at least 13.7 at rest. Start the bike w/o the lights and hold 3000 rpm the reading should stay at 13.7. Turn the lights on and it shouldnt drop or you have a charging problem.

You didnt indicated what year or model. 6v? 12v?

I'd do that before I rewired the bike.
 

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I use a Harley reg on my Beeze. I've done several. Mine's been there for 4-5 years. Ya can even have a "Chrome one" if ya want. Three wires - it's simple. I'll tell ya how if ya'd like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok thanks guys,
here's what i got so far...
the bike is a 65 500 12v

the batt ran down from running the headlite(in the rain)
i charged the batt, and it seems to hold a charge.
it starts up fine after charging with a batt charger.
it will not fire with out the batt being hooked up.
batt shows 12.5 (on bench)
when i start it it shows 11.7(tailite is on)
so it seems to be the charging system, do i replace the rotor and stator? and... /or do i add a batt. alternative system?

again, thanks for the help, i'm dyin to ride this thing a little more and less pushing. ha
 

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ok, what about the component under the triple tree - with the charred black & melted away fin .. is there a wire going to a small brass part in the center of it ??

that brass piece is the "regulator", as-stock ..

and again, if it went, you could have hurt that battery from overcharging, over time .. those 2 components are "downstream" of your rotor/stator, so .. I'd want to know the battery checked out (beyond just charging it & trying it ..) and did you do like Pops said & rev it up & see if the voltage rises ??

and for checking, or running; it's best to have the taillight And headlight switched completely separately from the ignition, so you can run with no drain but the ignition ..

if you're going to just start swapping parts, the Tympanium is about $40 & replaces rectifier & diode .. the (Sparx) rotor/stator are over 200 ..

also, as to "do i add a batt. alternative system?" .. adding a capacitor beside the battery, or in place of it, will not increase your voltage At all .. the capacitor merely stores enough juice to fire the coils while kicking thru, when you have no battery ..

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dragon said:
ok, what about the component under the triple tree - with the charred black & melted away fin .. is there a wire going to a small brass part in the center of it ??yes, but the part wiggles around inside the heat finned deal, and no way to tighten.

that brass piece is the "regulator", as-stock ..

and again, if it went, you could have hurt that battery from overcharging, over time .. those 2 components are "downstream" of your rotor/stator, so .. I'd want to know the battery checked out (beyond just charging it & trying it ..) and did you do like Pops said & rev it up & see if the voltage rises ??
yes, reved it up and it's still the same. 12.8 on batt. with no load, then start it up and it drops to 11.54, and no change at all when you rev it.

and for checking, or running; it's best to have the taillight And headlight switched completely separately from the ignition, so you can run with no drain but the ignition ..

if you're going to just start swapping parts, the Tympanium is about $40 & replaces rectifier & diode .. the (Sparx) rotor/stator are over 200 ..
is there a way to check voltage on the rotor/stator coming out of the motor? volt check?

also, as to "do i add a batt. alternative system?" .. adding a capacitor beside the battery, or in place of it, will not increase your voltage At all .. the capacitor merely stores enough juice to fire the coils while kicking thru, when you have no battery ..

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thanks for the help
 

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blktopbandit said:
thanks for the help
...

ok, ... ..

"yes, reved it up and it's still the same. 12.8 on batt. with no load, then start it up and it drops to 11.54, and no change at all when you rev it. .... is there a way to check voltage on the rotor/stator coming out of the motor? volt check?

that's plenty to run it on, I'm still wary of the true problem being the damaged zener diode in that heat sink .. or if you wouldnt just steadily drain the battery ..

that the zener is wiggling around is likely why it arced & burnt away the fin there, it has to be grounded, that's a hot lead going into a big resistor & its heat sink, dumping excess volts ..

and the rotor/stator on the drive end of the crank makes AC voltage, I'm sure there's a value to test for but I dont know what it is off top of the head ..

I'll hunt for some more answers & also drop you a pm with some more thoughts ..

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