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my sporty tank is pretty rusty inside, and i dont want to cut it up.....at least not just yet. what's the best and easiest way to clean that rust out?
whats the best way to clean a rusty tank?
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Fill it up with molassis and water (or coca cola syrup) and let it sit for a week. Pour out, clean with soap and wqter and it'll be good to go.
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Email Scootermcrad, he just did one. Definately use a coating kit when you finish!
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1,052 Posts
Por15 - I've heard nothing but good things about it and plan on using it on a tank I've got.
http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/COMPLETEKITS/CYCLETANKREPAIRKIT/tabid/103/Default.aspx
http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/COMPLETEKITS/CYCLETANKREPAIRKIT/tabid/103/Default.aspx
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yep. http://www.dcsportbikes.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19282grail21 said:
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grail21 said:
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I don't think they meant the regular por-15 paint. Por-15 has a specific gas tank sealer system.
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I like the muatic acid, but I was going to say..I've been told that you have to be really careful with the sealer because if it does not cover 100% of the inside of the tank, it will flake away in your tank. I've just used muratic acid and then kept gas in the tank at all times so it doesn't rust. and don't let it sit, you have to keep riding or it will rust again quickly. I've cleaned about four tanks and I finally came to my sences. Don't buy a kit for 30 dollars, just log onto flyritechoppers.com and buy a new sporty tank for like ..80 bucks.
On one tank I did, I used muratic acid on it and the flakes from the sealer started comming loose. It seemed impossible to clean, so I junked the tank.
On one tank I did, I used muratic acid on it and the flakes from the sealer started comming loose. It seemed impossible to clean, so I junked the tank.
On another board I use a guy showed pics of using a box of BB's. First he took off the petcock and taped the opening closed, used an old gas cap and poured in about half a box (small milk carton size). Wrapped the tank in a big comforter, then stuffed it in the ol lady's drier. He packed blankets around the tank so it would not move, then turned the drier on with NO HEAT. Let it run while he had a cpl of beers and the damn thing came out like new. Pretty fucking niffty. No solvents, no standing there shaking it till your arms fall of. And you still have amo for the rats donwn at the dump.
Fastest, easiest, and cheapest way I've found is "The Works" bathroom cleaner. You can get it at the dollar store for around a buck and it cleans up with water. This stuff has some kind of acid in it because it will eat rust right off of metal in an hour or two.
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3 Posts
the molases trick works the best.and it's cheap. start of by cleaning off the scale with nuts and bolts..i use copper chain. then i use the molases....it works nicely. and dont fuck up your original paint.
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283 Posts
a cheap ass such as myself will try damn near anything once, molasses ,the works, bolts, but I know only from personal use the acid trick works on rusty steel ,also there is a gas tank lining sealer called creem,napa auto stores used to carry it ,great shit ,chheap holds up good,but be sure to follow instructions and make sure you dont seal off your petcock fitting,Dr.Frankensickle
check out this link, going to try it on my 78 http://twinoak.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html
I used vinegar and the POR 15 tank sealer. vinegar is just weak acid so it's the same as any other acid method, just takes longer and is easier on the skin.
Just make damn sure before you seal the tank that the interior is 100% dry. Any moisture will ruin the adhesion and it will gum up everything.
Just make damn sure before you seal the tank that the interior is 100% dry. Any moisture will ruin the adhesion and it will gum up everything.
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231 Posts
ive read some great things about a product called" rusteco " anyone used this stuff?
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