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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can I assume the downtubes are welded directly to the neck and the gusset is just wrapped around them, or, do the downtubes "stop" inside the gusset and it's built as one big monocoque lump?
Anybody peel off this gusset? Pics?
 

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Can I assume the downtubes are welded directly to the neck and the gusset is just wrapped around them, or, do the downtubes "stop" inside the gusset and it's built as one big monocoque lump?
Anybody peel off this gusset? Pics?
Sorry I don't have pictures, but I saved the steering head from my 97 sporty frame when it got raked and stretched and coverted to a single DT. It's a damned mess in there with everything joined up to the head and then plated over. Don't even bother trying to dissect it.

For a basic rake job, Use a sawzal and just whack through everything from underneath about an inch behind the steering head, leave a quarter inch uncut at the top, pull it out to whatever rake you want, and weld in wedge shaped filler pieces.

If you intend to do much more (as I did recently), and actually need to fully separate your steering head and then re-use it, you cut all the way through everything, and then once the head is off, put it in a vise and clean off the remnants with more cutting and lots grinding before re-installing it on the new frame work. Just mind those serial numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Slag Kustom and J.F.Byrd for the info and advice and pics. I was actually thinking of "dissecting" it and having a cleaner, lighter looking steering head without the factory gusset wrapped around it, just a couple of small gussets to keep it together. Still not sure if I want to rake it by cutting behind the steering head or by stretching the down tubes....have to figure out how much stretch = how much rake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I figured 2 hours, but 4 hours later I had the gusset off and mostly smoothed out. Grinder, sawzall, hammer and chisel + 4 hours! I got impatient and sloppy now I have a couple of nicks and one bad spot where I really dug through the weld that will have to be welded up before I continue.
Trying to get an Ironhead look to the frame, now I have to figure out how to move the shocks forward and still have room for an oil tank and battery. Thinking an old kidney tank hung on the side and remount the stock battery box after relocating the shock mounts.
So if anyone else is curious what an Evo Sportster frame looks like under the gusset....
 

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Trying to get an Ironhead look to the frame, now I have to figure out how to move the shocks forward and still have room for an oil tank and battery. Thinking an old kidney tank hung on the side and remount the stock battery box after relocating the shock mounts.
Hope you post updates as you make progress on this. I've been considering that same thing for my '92 EVO XL. The shock location on those frames has always bothered my eye compared to the proportions of an Iron Head frame.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Hope you post updates as you make progress on this. I've been considering that same thing for my '92 EVO XL. The shock location on those frames has always bothered my eye compared to the proportions of an Iron Head frame.

Bob
It's just an idea right now, still thinking about how I will do it. I am keeping a file of pics as I go along, so if I do get creative I will post a build thread.

I do agree with you, the rear end of the late Sportsters just doesn't look good, whereas Ironheads look "right".
 

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Damn, that looks really good under all that boxing! Super clean. I'd be tempted to weld in a few thought out reinforcements just to calm my mind.

I've seen a few Evo Sporty shock relocation pics on one of the Japanese sites. If I can find one, I'll post it cause it looks equally cool.

Thanks for posting the pics and keep em coming if you do decide to hack some more off.
 

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I've seen a few Evo Sporty shock relocation pics on one of the Japanese sites. If I can find one, I'll post it cause it looks equally cool.
I saw one on a Japanese blog where the guy mated an Ironhead rear frame section to the front part of an Evo frame. He did a very good job and the look was Ironhead. Even had the side mounted Ironhead oil tank. Wish I had bookmarked it.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, a few gussets will be going in and sitting here thinking about a 2" stretch to the down tubes to go with the 6" over front end.
I'd like to see the bike with the Ironhead rear section, or anything where the upper shock mounts have been moved to look like an Ironhead. I think it would look good with the later box section swingarm, and the shock mounts should be easy to relocate.
 

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The pics I've seen of the shock work, they shorten the triangles and move them closer to the seat post. They also move the mount on the swingarm forward and running covered shocks seems to be the theme in the pics I've seen.

Like bobscogin said, I should have bookmarked them or saved the pics. It really made the back section of the frame look good. I'll keep looking.
 

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Would some one with an Ironhead frame take a measurement from the center of the neck to the shock mount holes and post that dimension?

Bob
 

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Thanks! The factory manual gives the dimension from the neck center to the seat posts centers, but not from there to the shock mounts.

Bob
OK...66 Sportster with the straight seat post tubes, pre-electric start.

Centerline of neck to centerline of shock bolt: 30 5/8".

I guess add about 1 1/4" for an electric frame, but that's just a ballpark on my part.
 

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OK...66 Sportster with the straight seat post tubes, pre-electric start.

Centerline of neck to centerline of shock bolt: 30 5/8".

I guess add about 1 1/4" for an electric frame, but that's just a ballpark on my part.
Thanks for the info. To make an Evo frame more closely resemble an Ironhead frame is going to take more than just shortening the "triangles" to move the mounts forward. If you look at an Evo frame, the seat post bends forward above the engine mount in order to get the oil tank and battery behind it. The Ironhead seat post bends rearward about 10º, and the oil tank and battery mount in front of it. Shortening the triangles isn't going to allow enough room behind the seat post for oil tank and battery, and you won't be able to mount them in front of it like an Ironhead unless the seat post is bent rearward. Major surgery. I wish I had a bent/junk Evo frame to use for the development work.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
We've changed topics here but what the hell, here's something I found - I don't really like the way it has been done or the style of the bike, and I sure don't like the battery hanging down there. Looks like plenty of room to mount a battery across and a kidney tank on the side.
 

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OK, so I'm partly responsible for getting the thread off track, but it seemed like there wasn't much else to say about the neck gusset. worn, I think the photo you posted is a good example of why the seat post should be angled rearward toward the shock mounts ala Ironhead. There would be room to put the oil tank and battery in front of the seat post. I think a large horseshoe shaped oil tank like the old XLXH tank would look good if a battery could be fitted into one side of it.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
bob, no problem, I was only joking - it started out about headstock gussets, and morphed into shock mount relocation. I agree with you about moving the seatpost (and extending the top tube) if a horseshoe oil tank was in the plans. I think a new triangular seat cradle terminating in shock mounts with 2 parallel 1" "seatposts" angling back like an Ironhead to support a cross member between the shock mounts would leave room on either side to mount a tank and battery, and still look convincing.
I'm going to finish up the work on the headstock and down tubes I've already started before cutting up the subframe.
 
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