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I have a 900 sportster with an S&S super B and am unhappy with it, visited with a few people on the board here and they advise that the B is not the best choice for my application and that the S&S manifold is too big as well.
I am trying to determine my best option...as I rode quite a bit of dirt bike and snowmobile in my younger days I kinda like the mikuni option...What size mikuni would I want on my stock 900 (only thing non-stock specs are the drag pipes and mag) and what would I need for a manifold??
Hack, I got your number and will call when I get time...

Thanks-
 

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just lemme know

the two 25mm smoothies look very appealing to me and if my current setup gives me any problem...... I haven't dinked around with them enough to see how far out of phase they can be adjusted but I know they can be "unsync'd"

I posted a few pix and I have tons of that stuff in all sizes

but I can tell you the intake ports do work much better welded up....... even for a WOT drag racer.... they are huge

The stock manifold is still a bit large...... why HD thought the same manifold for a 1200 would work for an 883 is beyond me but it is easy to fill in with braze if you don't want to Devcon it..... ot tig it with nickle

for a stocker with stock cams...... I'd do a 34mm smoothie and no larger than a 36

Dan said:
I have a 900 sportster with an S&S super B and am unhappy with it, visited with a few people on the board here and they advise that the B is not the best choice for my application and that the S&S manifold is too big as well.
I am trying to determine my best option...as I rode quite a bit of dirt bike and snowmobile in my younger days I kinda like the mikuni option...What size mikuni would I want on my stock 900 (only thing non-stock specs are the drag pipes and mag) and what would I need for a manifold??
Hack, I got your number and will call when I get time...

Thanks-
 

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Another choice is the Zenith/Bendix. It came stock on the 1000 sprotsters and with the addition of the adjustable main jet kit, is easy to tune, dependable, and gets good gas mileage to boot. Being a factory carb it will bolt up easy and is reasonably priced from most any parts supplier (HD/J&P/CC/V-Twin/ect).
 

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so far i'm really happy with my super "E" . starts easy, idles good & is getting great mileage, though i may have to go to a smaller main jet when the mill is broken in.
frank

QUOTE=PONY]Another choice is the Zenith/Bendix. It came stock on the 1000 sprotsters and with the addition of the adjustable main jet kit, is easy to tune, dependable, and gets good gas mileage to boot. Being a factory carb it will bolt up easy and is reasonably priced from most any parts supplier (HD/J&P/CC/V-Twin/ect).[/QUOTE]
 

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that is a good one and I'm thinking there is more than one size venturi to be had in those...... I know for sure there is different venturi sizes on the Kehien (I can never spell that one right) factory sporty carbs...... but they need tweaking especially in the accel pump area

the same size carb that is crisp on a 1200 shovel is likely large for a 900

sure it will work...... I can make a 750 holley run on a 900

but that doesn't mean there is any good reason to do it

PONY said:
Another choice is the Zenith/Bendix. It came stock on the 1000 sprotsters and with the addition of the adjustable main jet kit, is easy to tune, dependable, and gets good gas mileage to boot. Being a factory carb it will bolt up easy and is reasonably priced from most any parts supplier (HD/J&P/CC/V-Twin/ect).
 

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PONY said:
Another choice is the Zenith/Bendix. It came stock on the 1000 sprotsters and with the addition of the adjustable main jet kit, is easy to tune, dependable, and gets good gas mileage to boot. Being a factory carb it will bolt up easy and is reasonably priced from most any parts supplier (HD/J&P/CC/V-Twin/ect).
Bendix carbs have been my first choice for 3 different stock Ironheads, after trying B's, E's .. and if they need a rebuild be sure and get the American made rebuild kit & will be good as new ..

(Don) pm me I probably have one I'll sell cheap enough to be worth the try ..

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The Bendix comes in two sizes 38mm and 40 mm, small block and big block. They come stock with a fixed main jet. The adjustable main jet (it can be ordered with that option) allows fine tuning for set up and on the fly. That dosen't mean much on face value, BUT, I live at sea level and if I want to go visit my friends in Idaho, there's a 5,000 ft Pass in the way. All the New bikes are have altitude Compisated systems, But the old bikes Don't.. At 4,000 ft my bike goes rich, I reach down and turn the adjuster a quarter turn in and the bike is happy and I go on. If I'm with the wife ( 65 Triumph w/ dual Mukines), we pull over, bust the Mukinies open, drop the needels down a notch, and then go on, on the down hill slide at 4,000 ft again we bust the carbs open again pop the needles back up and go on. My point is, I don't know of another carb (other than a kit for the S&S "B") that will let you lean the carb out at altitude painlessely. If you don't deal with altitudes than this means squat and most any carb will work fine. The only down side is that on one trip I hit a bump at the same time I was turning the adjuster and I didn't think that I had made the adjustment, so I did it again. Within a half a mile the motor started backfiring on the rear jug, It was ugly and I turned around and made it home, very very ugly, only to find a burned valve. I turned it down twice, leaned it out and killed it. But I still run the same set up and stand by it. Every set up is only as good as the Idiot using it!!
 

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Pony...... I know the carb comes in the two butterfly sizes.....

but I'm also thinking there are different venturi sizes for at least one of the butterfly sizes as well.......


It always amazed me how well the 1.5 inch tillotson ran on the 900's

but the very nature of those carbs dictate serious overcarburetion because they physically cannot provide an acceptable fuel curve over 100% of their range...... more like 80%

I see some folks are making a three circuit diaphram unit...... I tried to get them on the phone but they semed bent on hiding behind the ebay emails so that kept me from having any further interest.
 

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Ironhead Carb Help, Which is best?

I'm probably asking for alot here, but give me your ideas. I have a '65 XLCH and I'm having the worst time getting it to run good on the hiway. It has a two adjustment bendix carb and it just does not seem right. Is there a better carb I can get for it? I'm not looking for a hot rod here, just something that idles nice and will get me around on short trips! Thanks in advance!
 

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Re: Ironhead Carb Help, Which is best?

i use a del orto but its hard to start when its hot. i was thinking of using an evo sporty carb.
 

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Re: Ironhead Carb Help, Which is best?

I have not been around long but I have seen this one pop up enough to know some of the answers guys on here are going to toss out.

some will say the bendix should be fine if in proper running condition and tuned properly.

some will say S&S super B. others will counter it does not have a accelerator pump...

some will say S&S super E. others will counter it is too new/shinny and there is no need to spend that much.

some will say SU. others will counter you can not spell SUck without SU.

some will say CV. others will counter too new.

About the only one I have not seen much talk about on here is Mikuni.

Every carb will have good stuff said about it and bad stuff said about it. It is pretty mind numbing.

Me, I am going to try and SU on my shovelhead and if I can not get it working right I am going with a Super B.

good luck with this one! might just pick up a rebuild kit and see about getting your carb dialed in.
 

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Re: Ironhead Carb Help, Which is best?

my CV carb is great on my Ironhead. i love the thing. i've also heard MANY MANY good things about the SU (the other constand velocity carb) and the the Del Ort/Mikuni roundslides are supposed to also be good carbs. the thing about the CV (and it's the only one i have experience with) is that there are THREE tunable circuits on it. the two jets, and the needle. the S&S only has two tunable circuits.
 
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