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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I dont post here much just mainly absorb all the info I can, but I am in a jam on a bike that is almost completed. So I need help on my dirt bike.

Question...... I am working on a Upside Down Fork Conversion on my DRZ 400 and the frame stop is slightly high and I need to extend it. I was thinking of making a duplicate tab and drilling 2 holes in the OEM frame tab and slug welding it in.

Details I need to confirm are....

1. What type of steel will be best for this job?

2. The bike is built so how do I protect the electrics from shock?

3. What type of welder should I use and what settings?

I have atatched pictures of the job I need to complete. My buddy is a welder and has a welding truck with several welding machines so I have options and a welder that can do the job. I just need to confirm with knowledgeable motorcycle guys first so he doesnt fry my bike electrics, since he is mainly a structural welder.
Thank You In Advance for assistance and time spent to reply.



 

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Disconnect the battery and all grounds. Put the ground clamp for the welder as close as humanly possible to the weld. There's still a risk, but this will minimize it. I would probably have him TIG it to concentrate the heat and make a clean weld without screwing up everything around it. Settings are for him to decide.
 

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remove batt completely , Ive seen /heard a batt goe off and seen the remains . NO wasnt me!!

I dont know what a DRZ is but guess its electronic eveything = unplug.

Do yourself a favour and remove forks and wire wheel the paint.
The bearings live there too so may aswell do it.

dont need a dupe tab just a hanger in line with the stops same width.

remove paint and clamp chunk with vice grips = 3 welds , front and sides
use tight v grips and clamp earth lead to v grips

Ya mate may just gas it and bash it on an angle, it only has to catch the stops ...again wire wheel and repaint + remove forks , dont half arse it.

If you leave forks on , thatll be another thread........
 

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Electricity follows the path of least resistance.that being said get your ground as close to your work as possible.I still always remove the battery,sparks will set them off.You should be ok.I would Tig it if it were mine.
 

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We have these surge protectors on the job.
Handy if you don't wanna undo a bank of linked batteries.



Tell your welder buddy you want it tigged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow, Thanks for all of the quick replies.. I really appreciate it.

A DRZ is a dual sport dirt bike that is street legal but just barely.

So basically what I am getting from the majority here is that there will always be a risk of electrical component damage if I do not take every electrical component off the bike prior to welding. If welding is the fix I go with then I will follow all of your advice and go this route. I will even remove the charging stator from the engine and the starter as well.

Someone mentioned bolting another piece of metal underneath the OEM frame stop and that is an option I have considered.

I have also considered drilling and tapping 2 holes in the OEM frame stop and installing hex head bolts up thru the bottom indexing the bolt head to line up squarely to the lower clamp when at full lock. Basically making the bolt the stop.

I could do a similar fix drilling the lower triple clamp and installing the bolts downward into the stops effectively widening the stop on the lower triple clamp.

Another option I considered was making a L piece that I could bolt onto the top of the lower triple clamp stops with a nice button head bolt. This would reduce the full lock steering a tad but would effectively widen the stop on the lower triple clamp while distributing the load more on the stop and less on the bolt.

Someone also mentioned bending the OEM frame stop down to "catch" enuff to have a good stop. The reason this is not an option is that on a dirt bike these stops see some fairly nasty hits on when the bike hits the ground. I have sheared stops clear off of lower triple clamps before. So a proper steering stop that fully engages is required. I just do not see the OEM frame tab bending down far enuff to be effective or I would do that.

The setup as it sits does in fact hit the stop and provides the proper range of motion. The only problem with it is that upon first impact its gonna start working thru the stop on the lower triple clamp.

I still think welding the tab is the proper fix here, even though it is by far not the easiest method due to all of the extra steps required to remove the electronics. Tig seems to be the choice of many here so TIG will be the choice I request.

Thank You All for your time spent to reply. I appreciate the knowledge provided here and it is appreciated.
 

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With that kind of attitude, you'll get plenty of help. Best of luck and do let us know the outcome.
 

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I have a bud who welds with a Henrob torch. No need to disconnect anything. Another option if there's someone near you who knows what they're doing with a torch.
 

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I would just make a 1/4" thick tab to mimick the size and shape of the original. drill and tap it and run some button head allen bolts down through. Then you dont have to worry about repainting the neck/frame. Any time you take off the factory finish the faster your asking for rust. So put some anti-sieze and a freshly painted new tab will be the only thing you will have to worry about rusting and or painting.
 

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I would make two small aluminum blocks to match the top of the stops on the triple tree and then I would make an aluminum brace in a semi circle that would go above the tab on the frame to support the top of the blocks. Then drill and tap the triple tree and bolt it all together. Or if you can machine it all out of one block which would be stronger. That way both stops will support each other. Good Luck with it.
 

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Get a long, blunt cold chisel, and a BF Hammer. Bend that down a little, she'll be apples!
 

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Probably the most effective least invasive/ damaging thing you could do... Just remember to use grade8 on the hardware. It'll only be as strong as the bolts holding it in place.. but best solution.

I would just make a 1/4" thick tab to mimick the size and shape of the original. drill and tap it and run some button head allen bolts down through. Then you dont have to worry about repainting the neck/frame. Any time you take off the factory finish the faster your asking for rust. So put some anti-sieze and a freshly painted new tab will be the only thing you will have to worry about rusting and or painting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I went ahead and tore the bike down to the frame and traded 2 days labor for 2 days in the fab shop.

We TIG welded a new piece of steel on the original stop, did a few mods while we were at it, and repaired a leaking oil tank that was discovered upon pressure testing. (the oil is in the frame on this bike)

Here are some pics of the repairs...
 
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