Welding on a completed bike, and protecting the bikes electrical

remove batt completely , Ive seen /heard a batt goe off and seen the remains . NO wasnt me!!

I dont know what a DRZ is but guess its electronic eveything = unplug.

Do yourself a favour and remove forks and wire wheel the paint.
The bearings live there too so may aswell do it.

dont need a dupe tab just a hanger in line with the stops same width.

remove paint and clamp chunk with vice grips = 3 welds , front and sides
use tight v grips and clamp earth lead to v grips

Ya mate may just gas it and bash it on an angle, it only has to catch the stops ...again wire wheel and repaint + remove forks , dont half arse it.

If you leave forks on , thatll be another thread........

Wow, Thanks for all of the quick replies.. I really appreciate it.

A DRZ is a dual sport dirt bike that is street legal but just barely.

So basically what I am getting from the majority here is that there will always be a risk of electrical component damage if I do not take every electrical component off the bike prior to welding. If welding is the fix I go with then I will follow all of your advice and go this route. I will even remove the charging stator from the engine and the starter as well.

Someone mentioned bolting another piece of metal underneath the OEM frame stop and that is an option I have considered.

I have also considered drilling and tapping 2 holes in the OEM frame stop and installing hex head bolts up thru the bottom indexing the bolt head to line up squarely to the lower clamp when at full lock. Basically making the bolt the stop.

I could do a similar fix drilling the lower triple clamp and installing the bolts downward into the stops effectively widening the stop on the lower triple clamp.

Another option I considered was making a L piece that I could bolt onto the top of the lower triple clamp stops with a nice button head bolt. This would reduce the full lock steering a tad but would effectively widen the stop on the lower triple clamp while distributing the load more on the stop and less on the bolt.

Someone also mentioned bending the OEM frame stop down to "catch" enuff to have a good stop. The reason this is not an option is that on a dirt bike these stops see some fairly nasty hits on when the bike hits the ground. I have sheared stops clear off of lower triple clamps before. So a proper steering stop that fully engages is required. I just do not see the OEM frame tab bending down far enuff to be effective or I would do that.

The setup as it sits does in fact hit the stop and provides the proper range of motion. The only problem with it is that upon first impact its gonna start working thru the stop on the lower triple clamp.

I still think welding the tab is the proper fix here, even though it is by far not the easiest method due to all of the extra steps required to remove the electronics. Tig seems to be the choice of many here so TIG will be the choice I request.

Thank You All for your time spent to reply. I appreciate the knowledge provided here and it is appreciated.