Yeah its 1/8 npt... Allen head or square head one from your local True Value hardware store.. I always tape them, and dont over tighten and I have never had a problem...
WARNING! Triumph Oil Pressure Switches
Hello fellow JJers. I have been reading this thread for some time and am concerned about the advise given for Triumph oil pressure switches. The problem I see is that some JJers are advising other members to install the wrong type of sender or adapter for an oil pressure gage. First off DO NOT use a tapered thread oil pressure sending unit or a tapered thread adapter for an oil pressure gage. Triumph oil pressure switches are a straight thread, not tapered. If you use a tapered oil pressure switch then there is a good chance you will crack your timing cover. When I was a Triumph mechanic back when the factory was on strike we could not get many parts. Only what was on the shelves at the distributer. Once that supply ran out we had to make due with what we had. I can remember my father taking an American made automotive type sending switch chucking it up in a lathe cutting a shoulder and turning the straight threads.
I hope my advice opens up the doors for discussion so this problem can be corrected.
Old Codger
I hope my advice opens up the doors for discussion so this problem can be corrected.
Old Codger
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
Thanks again. I actually can't believe I've had such a hard time finding a stupid little NPT plug here so I'll have to order that Triumph part.Yeah its 1/8 npt... Allen head or square head one from your local True Value hardware store.. I always tape them, and dont over tighten and I have never had a problem...
I like this one, for a "store-bought" piece, for the later mostly stock bikes that are running the stock 'clocks' (gauges)..I ran a flat bracket that mounts under the right side head bolts and the guage mounts to it..with a hose ran to the cover..worked great and you can see it..
Kinda costly but a nicely made piece, an aluminum 'dash' which the gauges' stock rubber cup-mounts slips into, and has an oil gauge in the center...
http://www.triplesrule.com/3gauge.html
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I thought that threaded hole where the oil pressure switch goes was a tapered thread? Am I wrong?
Cheers Dan.
Cheers Dan.
68 should be the only year with a tappered thread cover.. But I could be wrong...
I managed to find a1/8" NPT socket head plug. How far in should it thread before it starts to get resistance?
I can thread the 1/4" long plug in maybe 2/3 of the way in before things start to get tight. I realize that is the nature of a taperd pipe thread. I apologize for asking such a rudimentary question, but I don't want to crack the timing cover.
I can thread the 1/4" long plug in maybe 2/3 of the way in before things start to get tight. I realize that is the nature of a taperd pipe thread. I apologize for asking such a rudimentary question, but I don't want to crack the timing cover.
Just tape it and put it in a 1/4 the way in, then if it leaks, tighten it a tiny bit at a time.. Shouldnt crack unless you thread the thing all the way in.. Couple threads might stick out, thats fine...
This has always been a hard one, but we do see many Trumpy's through our doors. I've had this obsession for over 7 years when i broke my first (and only) timing cover when using the wrong threaded switch or line kit.
Every Triumph i work on i just can't help but check to see what type thread the oil sender has.
Now, i've seen three one owner 68 Triumphs with two different thread types and i can't pin point a particular pattern here.
Even early as 64 model bikes with tapered threads. I can't say i'm 100% sure there has been no tampering here, but you know the feeling when you look at something and you just know it hasn't been pulled appart from the factory? Well i get that... and it's killing me!!
I gots to know! What the hell is going on with these threads?
One word of advise though, if you feel any resistance screwing into this hole, STOP IMEDIATELY! Otherwise you will break the cover. It will happen suddenly, and once it does, your headache will begin...Or buy another cover.
Every Triumph i work on i just can't help but check to see what type thread the oil sender has.
Now, i've seen three one owner 68 Triumphs with two different thread types and i can't pin point a particular pattern here.
Even early as 64 model bikes with tapered threads. I can't say i'm 100% sure there has been no tampering here, but you know the feeling when you look at something and you just know it hasn't been pulled appart from the factory? Well i get that... and it's killing me!!
I gots to know! What the hell is going on with these threads?
One word of advise though, if you feel any resistance screwing into this hole, STOP IMEDIATELY! Otherwise you will break the cover. It will happen suddenly, and once it does, your headache will begin...Or buy another cover.
Sorry, one more thing, oil pressure gauges are important especially on start up. You will know straight up if you should shut down. Also good when pulled up at traffic lights to rev and check your needle movement.
Looking inside your oil tank to see if oil returing is not enough. If your bottom end is starving, the oil will still return but you risk not knowing if you actually have pressure in your engine. The oil switch is OK but usually by the time the light goes on, it's too late, the damage has begun.
Looking inside your oil tank to see if oil returing is not enough. If your bottom end is starving, the oil will still return but you risk not knowing if you actually have pressure in your engine. The oil switch is OK but usually by the time the light goes on, it's too late, the damage has begun.
2
I did something similiar except using the Ammeter hole in the headlight bucket. I run a capacitor, so an ammeter doesn't really do me a lot of good.I like this one, for a "store-bought" piece, for the later mostly stock bikes that are running the stock 'clocks' (gauges)..
Kinda costly but a nicely made piece, an aluminum 'dash' which the gauges' stock rubber cup-mounts slips into, and has an oil gauge in the center...
I got the parts at a local auto parts store for less than 50 bucks. the Stainless hose is actually off-the-shelf vacuum line that I threaded the oil line through it to protect it from the exhaust heat.
These bikes are over 40 years old...even if you purchased it new and changed nothing there is no guarantee things are "year correct". I have a 68 Bonnie and recently discovered it has 67 (early 68) parts (kicker cover-timing cover, trans parts ...) i have ordered several 68 clutch cables (to long) before I talked to a old guy in Fla.that specializes in Triumps. that I had a 67 part ..He doesn't even own a computer....
You can only go by what you have in hand, inspect and determine what you may need.
I would love to put a oil pressure gauge on, but I am gonna damn well make sure what type of threads I have before I take a chance in cracking my timing cover....Time for a trip to a local machine shop.....
You can only go by what you have in hand, inspect and determine what you may need.
I would love to put a oil pressure gauge on, but I am gonna damn well make sure what type of threads I have before I take a chance in cracking my timing cover....Time for a trip to a local machine shop.....
If your going to have that much cash in that motor, then you should think about a switch, or gauge for sure.. I use the switches.. Gauges are a little over kill... If the motor was rebuilt right, it will have oil pressure... Like stated before, if you are going to put a large chunk of change (judging from the looks of that cover I would say you are).... Then put something other than a plug in it...
I thought the way you're thinking now. Plug or bolt would be temporary until I find a guage or something. I didn't want a switch to keep things clean (cosmetically and electrically) but I am starting to rethink things. Once the build is done, before final electrical work is complete I may wire in a switch. I'd prefer a guage but you can only see them while at a light or before you ride. I may do that until I make a nice mount for a guage near the bars.If your going to have that much cash in that motor, then you should think about a switch, or gauge for sure.. I use the switches.. Gauges are a little over kill... If the motor was rebuilt right, it will have oil pressure... Like stated before, if you are going to put a large chunk of change (judging from the looks of that cover I would say you are).... Then put something other than a plug in it...
True, but how many engines are actually built right? I'm sure you've had your fair share on repairing other peoples F/ups. Just recently we recieved a Trumpy for a few repairs and modifications. The customer asked us to fit an oil gauge and we did. On start up, there was zero oil pressure. Checked the gauge, worked fine. Pulled off the timing cover and the oil seal was ragged out. The engine was rebuilt using lots of new parts, including timing gears, oil pump etc. Very clean job. But it looked like someone had used their palm to drive the timing cover on and the seal must have caught the crank.If your going to have that much cash in that motor, then you should think about a switch, or gauge for sure.. I use the switches.. Gauges are a little over kill... If the motor was rebuilt right, it will have oil pressure... Like stated before, if you are going to put a large chunk of change (judging from the looks of that cover I would say you are).... Then put something other than a plug in it...
Lucky the bike wasn't ridden much since the rebuild. We caught it just in time. This is why we like to use oil gauges.
I bought my motor as rebuilt but when ripping the primary apart to fit a belt drive, I noticed no clutch nut washer and the rotor nut lock washer was beat to shit. There was the odd rounded off nut or ratty fastener, as well as a bent stator stud. When rebuilding you'd think putting in the appropriate washers and some new fasteners where required would be common practice but I guess not.True, but how many engines are actually built right? I'm sure you've had your fair share on repairing other peoples F/ups. Just recently we recieved a Trumpy for a few repairs and modifications. The customer asked us to fit an oil gauge and we did. On start up, there was zero oil pressure. Checked the gauge, worked fine. Pulled off the timing cover and the oil seal was ragged out. The engine was rebuilt using lots of new parts, including timing gears, oil pump etc. Very clean job. But it looked like someone had used their palm to drive the timing cover on and the seal must have caught the crank.
Lucky the bike wasn't ridden much since the rebuild. We caught it just in time. This is why we like to use oil gauges.
Nice one, my guess is when they rebuilt it, they bashed the shit out of the end of the crank to get it out of the case.. Mushroomed it over, and it tore the seal when reassembling..?? Seen that a hundred times.. They offer undersize crank seals so you can have that end turned down if you do fuck it up... Most important thing when you start em up for the first time is to check that oil tank and make sure its returning.. Cant stress that enough... Also, sometimes you wont get oil to the top end without taking it out for a ride and get it thru some gears... We used to run clear hose to the rocker feed on the first start up.. Then make sure it is getting up to the rockers...True, but how many engines are actually built right? I'm sure you've had your fair share on repairing other peoples F/ups. Just recently we recieved a Trumpy for a few repairs and modifications. The customer asked us to fit an oil gauge and we did. On start up, there was zero oil pressure. Checked the gauge, worked fine. Pulled off the timing cover and the oil seal was ragged out. The engine was rebuilt using lots of new parts, including timing gears, oil pump etc. Very clean job. But it looked like someone had used their palm to drive the timing cover on and the seal must have caught the crank.
Lucky the bike wasn't ridden much since the rebuild. We caught it just in time. This is why we like to use oil gauges.
If there was no clutch hub washer, there would be nothing holding the clutch hub in?? Do you know who rebuilt it? Did you mention it to him?? Thats not really anything that can be an honest mistake.. Thats just wrong..I bought my motor as rebuilt but when ripping the primary apart to fit a belt drive, I noticed no clutch nut washer and the rotor nut lock washer was beat to shit. There was the odd rounded off nut or ratty fastener, as well as a bent stator stud. When rebuilding you'd think putting in the appropriate washers and some new fasteners where required would be common practice but I guess not.
I used 1/8" nylon to feed the rockers (like norton use) it's a cleaner look. When I took the original oil tank out I'm positive the hole is 1/8" not 3/16" so I didn't think much of it, I've only put 40 clicks on this build and it's a good reminder Hartz to check that sucker cause I ain't yet but I will.
Brownie
Brownie
O.K. This thread (no pun intended) should be preserved for all. I am running a 1976 T140V, and had a plug in place of an oil pressure switch. The plug was in the timing cover when I got it. I reinstalled the plug during a rebuild, and it snugged up well with a copper washer. after 350 miles, I noticed it beginning to leak a bit. When I put a wrench on it to tighten it up, there where no threads left. I took out the plug with my fingers and sure enough, it had pulled all the threads out of the timing cover. Would vibration do this?
Secondly, I now have another timing cover of undetermined vintage, and I'm not sure if I should keep running this plug. It threads in fine, and seems to snug up, but I don't want it to strip out the threads again... I like the idea of running a pressure guage too.
Suggestions?
Secondly, I now have another timing cover of undetermined vintage, and I'm not sure if I should keep running this plug. It threads in fine, and seems to snug up, but I don't want it to strip out the threads again... I like the idea of running a pressure guage too.
Suggestions?
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
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