E9526- 70-9526- Blanking Plug
WARNING! Triumph Oil Pressure Switches
Hello fellow JJers. I have been reading this thread for some time and am concerned about the advise given for Triumph oil pressure switches. The problem I see is that some JJers are advising other members to install the wrong type of sender or adapter for an oil pressure gage. First off DO NOT use a tapered thread oil pressure sending unit or a tapered thread adapter for an oil pressure gage. Triumph oil pressure switches are a straight thread, not tapered. If you use a tapered oil pressure switch then there is a good chance you will crack your timing cover. When I was a Triumph mechanic back when the factory was on strike we could not get many parts. Only what was on the shelves at the distributer. Once that supply ran out we had to make due with what we had. I can remember my father taking an American made automotive type sending switch chucking it up in a lathe cutting a shoulder and turning the straight threads.
I hope my advice opens up the doors for discussion so this problem can be corrected.
Old Codger
I hope my advice opens up the doors for discussion so this problem can be corrected.
Old Codger
1 - 7 of 41 Posts
Yeah its 1/8 npt... Allen head or square head one from your local True Value hardware store.. I always tape them, and dont over tighten and I have never had a problem...
68 should be the only year with a tappered thread cover.. But I could be wrong...
Just tape it and put it in a 1/4 the way in, then if it leaks, tighten it a tiny bit at a time.. Shouldnt crack unless you thread the thing all the way in.. Couple threads might stick out, thats fine...
If your going to have that much cash in that motor, then you should think about a switch, or gauge for sure.. I use the switches.. Gauges are a little over kill... If the motor was rebuilt right, it will have oil pressure... Like stated before, if you are going to put a large chunk of change (judging from the looks of that cover I would say you are).... Then put something other than a plug in it...
Nice one, my guess is when they rebuilt it, they bashed the shit out of the end of the crank to get it out of the case.. Mushroomed it over, and it tore the seal when reassembling..?? Seen that a hundred times.. They offer undersize crank seals so you can have that end turned down if you do fuck it up... Most important thing when you start em up for the first time is to check that oil tank and make sure its returning.. Cant stress that enough... Also, sometimes you wont get oil to the top end without taking it out for a ride and get it thru some gears... We used to run clear hose to the rocker feed on the first start up.. Then make sure it is getting up to the rockers...True, but how many engines are actually built right? I'm sure you've had your fair share on repairing other peoples F/ups. Just recently we recieved a Trumpy for a few repairs and modifications. The customer asked us to fit an oil gauge and we did. On start up, there was zero oil pressure. Checked the gauge, worked fine. Pulled off the timing cover and the oil seal was ragged out. The engine was rebuilt using lots of new parts, including timing gears, oil pump etc. Very clean job. But it looked like someone had used their palm to drive the timing cover on and the seal must have caught the crank.
Lucky the bike wasn't ridden much since the rebuild. We caught it just in time. This is why we like to use oil gauges.
If there was no clutch hub washer, there would be nothing holding the clutch hub in?? Do you know who rebuilt it? Did you mention it to him?? Thats not really anything that can be an honest mistake.. Thats just wrong..I bought my motor as rebuilt but when ripping the primary apart to fit a belt drive, I noticed no clutch nut washer and the rotor nut lock washer was beat to shit. There was the odd rounded off nut or ratty fastener, as well as a bent stator stud. When rebuilding you'd think putting in the appropriate washers and some new fasteners where required would be common practice but I guess not.
1 - 7 of 41 Posts
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