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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
look at all the gasket surfaces and use a file to make them flat again, such as the two case halves.

this is stuff you can do on your own and doesnt cost much, but helps you see all corners of the motor.
Wow, thanks for all of that advice. (I deleted some to shorten my post...) I haven't used a file to flatten the cases, but I've laid them on a pane of glass and rubbed them around on some rough lapping compound. Pretty much same effect, I gather.
 

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^^ its actually a much better idea, you will never get it flat with just a file. Did this to the rocker boxes on my 74 ironhead, did the heads where they bolt on too, dont leak a drop now. I also did it to my cam cover and primary cover, neither leak now.
 

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check your cams. if you have PB+ cams, get rid of them. they are good cams, but they are lumpier and more performance oriented than the lower compression daily-rider type motor you're after. some stock P Grind cams would be better suited for your hypothetical motor.
i'd also replace the rocker oil lines. make sure you have good o-rings.

have your heads (depending on the condition of them) machined out for Stellite valve seats. this is a much better way of getting good seats than the Grind-the-cast-iron method that's constantly removing material but never replacing it.

thats all i can think of right now. i need sleep
 
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If I'm digging your rap....??

Your wanting to d-tune your motor....
Not many people do that this day and age....They are after every bit of pony's that can be had.

Think I would go about lower compression a bit diff. with coming up with pistons that do that....



Would be a better way going about it then running thick head gaskets or stroker plates under the jugs....



These are KB's.....

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Thank you guys for all the responses.

Excellent points, good sirs. You're most correct, re-using bearings would be foolhardy. After some research and talking to dragstews, I'll probably replace the rods. Still making my list, at the moment.

I've taken apart several sporty motors and replaced broken things, but I am definately not experienced, and not a machinist. I just take them apart, and replace things that look broken. This time, I want to build a motor the RIGHT way.

Ideas:

rods
extra thick head gaskets
balance crank
-2 or -3 rear sprocket
Automatic timing chain tensioner
Tamer Style Thrust Collar
needle bearings
hydro clutch
crank pin
gear shaft

Missing anything? This motor is getting expensive. I've been saving, though. I don't want to be back inside this motor in the next ten years, so it's worth it. Plus, I won't ride it like i ride my CB. This is going to be my gentle bike.
What is this "automatic timing chain" that you speak of?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·

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i can afford it. I just like the look of the drum. I may end up with disc's anyway. Actually might be cheaper, i'm having issues finding a decent front drum rim.
i love the look of the drum..... but i keep thinking about how much i enjoy slowing down at a rapid enough and controllable pace so as to not have it be a gradual slowing followed by an immediate thump of pummeling into something like a van.
and the front drums are pretty tough to find. i've been looking for another without any cracks for my other sporty project. seems they've all either gone to japan or the spoke flanges are filled with cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Well, unless the guy is lying to me, I think I've found one. (I don't think he is) It's not the old style giant one, but it's a good-looking drum. It's not cheap, but it's a fair price. Also found some 33.4 legs. Would love to find some cast trees, and some other bits, but I'll run the milled ones until I can find them.

You're right about being able to stop. I'm hoping if I get them arc'd properly, they'll be pretty stout, since the bike will be super light anyway... It's a paughco, 16 on the rear, 19 on the front, small tank. And I weigh 180lbs. I could be wrong, but I hope not. =)
 
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