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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got my 73 ironhead stripped all the way down for rings, gaskets, a new 2nd gear, and new needle-bearings. The rod bearings and such seem to be in pretty good shape, so i'll be leaving those alone for now. The side to side play is very minimal.

What things should I do while I'm inside the motor that will give me a smoother ride or a longer engine life? I'm not looking to hotrod, just mods that make good mechanical sense. Automatic timing chain tensioner? Beefier pawl carrier? Tamer Style Thrust Collar? Any ideas and a brief explanation of why they're a good idea would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Matt - I've heard a hydro clutch is a good idea, but why? I'd prefer to have less fluids to leak, if possible. That's one of the reasons I'm going dual drum on this bike. KISS method.

Glider: plan on a smaller rear sprocket already, so good call on that one. One of the main things i'll be doing on this bike is commuting to work, so lower RPM's on the highway are good for two things, MPG and longevity. =)

Never thought about lowering the compression. I very well might do that. Where would I find intentionally thicker head-gaskets?

I need to find a shop that I trust in the Dallas area to balance my crank. I'm eternally suspicious of machineshops. If anyone has a recommendation, I'd love to hear it.

Not sure exactly what you mean about the motor mounts - unless you're saying to make the bolt holes larger than needed to allow a bit of wiggle room during install, in order to get a tighter fit and more even pressure on the mounts at the end of the day...? (no, you weren't confusing. I'm just a bit thick in the head at times. Haha)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'd thought about doing the same thing, mailing him my entire bottom end. I've seen some of his work on here, and read his responses to questions. I'll PM him and get some quotes.

Why is the hydro better than the ball-ramp? I'd considered doing a hydro clutch and doing a cable actuated hidden M/C. I don't like the handle-bar mounted reservoir. I'd kinda hoped to stay away from hydraulic brakes or clutches, just to avoid having another fluid to keep tabs on, but if it will stay running longer, I'm down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Matt: thanks. Sounds like hidden m/c hydro is going to be the plan.

Thrillphil, thanks! Have you used him yourself? I'll call him for quotes this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Thank you guys for all the responses.

Excellent points, good sirs. You're most correct, re-using bearings would be foolhardy. After some research and talking to dragstews, I'll probably replace the rods. Still making my list, at the moment.

I've taken apart several sporty motors and replaced broken things, but I am definately not experienced, and not a machinist. I just take them apart, and replace things that look broken. This time, I want to build a motor the RIGHT way.

Ideas:

rods
extra thick head gaskets
balance crank
-2 or -3 rear sprocket
Automatic timing chain tensioner
Tamer Style Thrust Collar
needle bearings
hydro clutch
crank pin
gear shaft

Missing anything? This motor is getting expensive. I've been saving, though. I don't want to be back inside this motor in the next ten years, so it's worth it. Plus, I won't ride it like i ride my CB. This is going to be my gentle bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
look at all the gasket surfaces and use a file to make them flat again, such as the two case halves.

this is stuff you can do on your own and doesnt cost much, but helps you see all corners of the motor.
Wow, thanks for all of that advice. (I deleted some to shorten my post...) I haven't used a file to flatten the cases, but I've laid them on a pane of glass and rubbed them around on some rough lapping compound. Pretty much same effect, I gather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Interesting. Yes, I'm looking to de-tune. What do pistons like that cost? I have some money to play with, but not a bazillion dollars. I'll give you a phonecall today sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
i can afford it. I just like the look of the drum. I may end up with disc's anyway. Actually might be cheaper, i'm having issues finding a decent front drum rim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Well, unless the guy is lying to me, I think I've found one. (I don't think he is) It's not the old style giant one, but it's a good-looking drum. It's not cheap, but it's a fair price. Also found some 33.4 legs. Would love to find some cast trees, and some other bits, but I'll run the milled ones until I can find them.

You're right about being able to stop. I'm hoping if I get them arc'd properly, they'll be pretty stout, since the bike will be super light anyway... It's a paughco, 16 on the rear, 19 on the front, small tank. And I weigh 180lbs. I could be wrong, but I hope not. =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Also, unless I'm missing something, I don't think they make an automatic primary chain tensioner for my 73. I could be missing it, but it's sure not popping out at me. Got a tamer thrust collar on order, and going to put a micrometer all over my old parts to figure out exactly what I need to get done, and what I don't need to blow money on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
You're right, working on it is half the fun. And it's not that big of a deal, really. I'll eyeball some other brands, though, before I give up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Dhallilama - that's basically what i'm hoping for. I know it won't respond like modern disc, but hell... my first bike was a KZ1000. Those are notorious for not having enough brakes. Ask someone who rides one. As long as it doesn't seem dangerous, I'm willing to accept a little less for the look and the feel. You mention you weigh 150... I wonder if I'll look like an ape on a tricycle on this thing... as 180lbs and 6'1"... little wheels, little tank, no rake/stretch, short bars... Yeah. I'm going to look like a nimrod. Hopefully i wont hit my chin on my knees because of the mids...

But enough of my random rambling. I'll keep quiet till I have more updates/pictures/questions on the small and medium sized whirring bits on the inside of the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
So ends up I am getting a 33.4 front end with a drum rim. I also picked up a Dyna 2000i for 80 bucks, still in the box. Now I just need to put my motor back together, and I'll be well on the way.
 
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