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Discussion Starter #1
Ive got a 55 triumph that was starting 2nd or 3rd kick last time I started it that was about a year and a half ago. I've since changed most of the bike but the magneto and plugs etc hasnt changed, ive added dual Amal 930s, it's pukeing oil out of the crankcase breather when I kick it. The killswitch is a basic on/off switch, as I understand it in the on position it shorts the magneto turning off the bike. The switch "on" wire is grounded to the frame. So the switch is in the off position while I'm kicking. Also the first 3 teeth of the kicker gear are missing, so I think the kick is engaging a tad late. But when i flip the half cog around so it starts with good teeth its just binding up and wont engage, I'm kicking like a mule to no avail, any suggestions ? My knee is killin me
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ive since got it to start, after much difficulty. But after holding the throttle open for about 5 or 6 seconds to keep it idling it just died. Which I remember now that it used to do (wouldnt idle) is this all in the Amal idle screw ? Still way to difficult to start, any suggestions would be appreciated
 

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Have you had old gas sitting in the carbs,gas only lasts 60 days before it turns gungy inside the carb.
Have you set the carbs up one at a time as the manual says,or on the net?
Is the ignition timing spot on,any difference if you advance/retard the the ignition ( if manually operated)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With the hose spitting issue, I'm guessing I'm wet sumping (or as iPhone auto correct wants to say "wet dumping") would this cause trouble starting ?
 

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Do you advance retard a k2f Lucas mag ? I just rebuilt the carbs ...
Mine has a cable running from the mag. to a lever on the bars,which operates a cam wheel inside the mag. to retard the ignition when starting (manually operated)....if yours hasn't got this then it must have an automatic advance/retard unit on the end of the mag. drive pinion inside the timing chest,the spring loaded weights have to be held out in the advance position when setting the timing.....if yours is cable operated like mine,then set the timing with the lever closed.....when starting the engine retard it a little by opening the lever a touch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The magneto set up hasn't change since it was a start 2nd kick bike, so I'm thinking that's not it. I'm thinking it might be the wet dumping issue ??
 

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With the hose spitting issue, I'm guessing I'm wet sumping (or as iPhone auto correct wants to say "wet dumping") would this cause trouble starting ?
Can't see that being an issue with starting,probably just a little to much oil in the sump....if it is wet summing,I'd strip the pump and give it a good clean and look for any lumps of shit under the balls in the valves.If it's an old pump,you can re-seat the balls by giving them a sharp tap with a punch.
As far as the engine not starting,I'd look at all the simple things first,from the gas tank and pet cock through the carbs....look at the timing and spark plugs.
 

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The only time I had trouble starting the engine due to wet sumping was when it happened when I was riding it hard and the oil got past the piston ring and into the chambers and filled them with oil.....but you aren't riding yours hard....but still,check the plugs for oil.
If you get it started,set the idle with the throttle stop screws which are angled upwards.If it runs at a small throttle opening then dies on a wider opening,I'd check the needle settings are correct and main jet size( that's at full throttle).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Checked the oil pump it's fine, no air leaks in hoses, can't figure out why it's wet sumping.

I will check the plugs, gas tank is new just lined it, fuel is getting down the hose I can see it in the filter in the line. Carbs take forever to prime (tickler) used to just be 4 or 5 taps now it takes 20 or 30 , don't know why
 

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Checked the oil pump it's fine, no air leaks in hoses, can't figure out why it's wet sumping.

I will check the plugs, gas tank is new just lined it, fuel is getting down the hose I can see it in the filter in the line. Carbs take forever to prime (tickler) used to just be 4 or 5 taps now it takes 20 or 30 , don't know why
You might want to take the float bowls off and check the float are free and the needle valves,the engine might only be running on just and float bowl gas and they might not be re-filling.....I know you said they've just been done,but the floats can catch on the gaskets sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I sniffing down that trail, both these carbs are almost unprimerable, I've done it before but just now I tapped them probably 200 times no gas, even held them down for a minute straight... nothing. I was avoiding removing them to have a look, dual carbs on a single carb head is a really awkward reach
 

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I assume you have a gear type oil pump, and that is why the oil seeps to the crankcase, that alone can cause difficult starting as you will have difficulty kicking the flywheel up to the speed you used to, anyway, drain the sump for oil as it have been sitting for a long time...

Difficult starting, have you looked at the ticker and how it works.. its not like a primer pump, the ticker on a car you just hold down untill you see a reaction from the carb. on some amals you can see it will get moist around a hole at the lid, or I just look at my finger, when the tip gets wet with gas, then it will start. but if it flows slowly now, it may be hardend fuel, or sediment settled in your tanks valve..

If the engine gets lots of fuel, and you have a spak that kicks ass, the engine have no excuse not to start..
 

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if it still will not start when you fixed the carb, it is probably the capasitor, those also some times get rotten after sitting for some time..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's just a magneto right now, no alternator no lights. One of the ticklers isn't reaching the float when being pressed dealing with that now..
 

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if it still will not start when you fixed the carb, it is probably the capasitor, those also some times get rotten after sitting for some time..
Think this is about the capacitor/suppressor in the mag. Windings which can often cause problems,simple test,just take out the plugs and hold them against the engine,kick the engine over and see if you get a nice fat blue spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Floats sorted (i think) starts easy now, but the right side carb keeps poring gas out of the tickler (once pressed but not before) and the right side exhaust has smoke coming out of it (seems like the new stainless exhaust is smoking not an exhaust leak) and with a very scientific spit test the right side exhaust is way hotter that the left..
 
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