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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
have some wire from the basketcase, it has been spliced and added to. i have a basic diagram but have a boyer unit and a stock looking version, running an accel style coil...

there is a zeener diode in the harness, do i need it?

what is the function of the "beehive" thing in the second pic?
 

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The items shown in the first pic are a complete system, if they work. From left to right they are: Tympanium style regulator/rectifier. Converts AC alternator output to DC current. Also regulates voltage to somewhere between 13V and 14V. Next item (blue) is a capacitor. It is used in place of a battery in a batteryless system. Right most is the Boyer ignition unit less the pickup plate and rotor.

The item in the second picture is original style rectifier. You won't need it, or the Zener diode, if you're using all the stuff in the first pic.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Right most is the Boyer ignition unit less the pickup plate and rotor.

is that under the points cover? or is that a different pickup and rotor?

wire just stops making sense to me when you add electricity...

especially when you ground the +
 

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Rotor is under the points cover and should have 2 wires coming out. One b/w and one b/yellow pretty sure. They go to the boyer and other 2 wires go to the coils . Hot from tymp goes to coils or coil. Stator wires go to tymp. Either side doesn't matter. Check the wiring thread in the tech/questions section there's some basic diagrams and search triumph wiring should bring up a lot of threads. It's easy once you get if in he right place. Negative ground for batteryless is good. I only do negative ground anyway
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Rotor is under the points cover and should have 2 wires coming out. One b/w and one b/yellow pretty sure. They go to the boyer and other 2 wires go to the coils . Hot from tymp goes to coils or coil. Stator wires go to tymp. Either side doesn't matter. Check the wiring thread in the tech/questions section there's some basic diagrams and search triumph wiring should bring up a lot of threads. It's easy once you get if in he right place. Negative ground for batteryless is good. I only do negative ground anyway
thanks, i thought rotor under points cover but have made mistakes before... i knew i was in for a treat when i saw 3 keyed switches in 1 harness.
 

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3 for 1 bike? :confused: funny. I like to use toggles in the hot line to the coil or boyer to cut the power. odds are nobody else could start your chopper unless you teach them the " system" .. A toggel for the lights seperate from ignition wire so you an turn them off when you start the bike. A 20amp breaker is a good thing to have in the hot line from the Tymp. and branch the two power lines off of that one for lights and one for coils. Like the type from auto zone or NAPA . If you use a keyed ignition , even 3 postion you still need the toggle to shut the lights off cause the ign. and lights are on opposite side of the off postion. Thats why i dont bother with a keyed ignition . I still havnt had anybody start my bikes without help from me. Its kind of become a game especially with the experieced guys . Ill bet you a beer you can t start it? ;)
 

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thanks, i thought rotor under points cover but have made mistakes before... i knew i was in for a treat when i saw 3 keyed switches in 1 harness.
key switches are a big waist of time, the only thing they do is prevent your friends from starting your bike up when you go get another beer, a fat lip works much better.
when most bikes are stolen they are quietly pushed around the corner and loaded onto a truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
is there any reason that i shouldn't mount the items in the first pic to the frame under the tank?

just thinking of electricity and gas...

it's only paranoia if your wrong...
 

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We often put the coil and charge unit and switches under the gas tank just to hide them and the factory did too.

Why worry about that, I'll bet the car you are driving has an electric fuel pump inside the gas tank.
 

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Does a battery eliminator (Blue Cap) work with a Boyer? I have read the Boyer needs 8V or more to start the bike. Not sure if the cap can emulate that with a kick start...
I always used a battery with mine.
 

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Does a battery eliminator (Blue Cap) work with a Boyer? I have read the Boyer needs 8V or more to start the bike. Not sure if the cap can emulate that with a kick start...
I always used a battery with mine.
actually the Boyer's need 10.5 volts to work correctly, it's the Pazon's that work well at 8 volts.
but they all work with the blue capacitor as do the original points.
the voltage in the cap is determined by the strength of you alternator and the RPM of your kick.
Typically all E/I bikes have to be kicked over a little bit faster than a points bike does, it has to go to 200 RPM to register in the brain box.
We wire up "no battery" bikes with E/I's all the time, but we normally use the Boyer light delay charge unit (with built in cap), and a Pazon electronic ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
We often put the coil and charge unit and switches under the gas tank just to hide them and the factory did too.

Why worry about that, I'll bet the car you are driving has an electric fuel pump inside the gas tank.
mechanical pump on the block... 71 bronco and 73 nova, but i see your point and it is very valid... thanks
 
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