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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I searched and didn't really come up with what I was looking for.

1973 bonnie

I recently rebuilt my motor, and Im going through some heat cycles and short rides. I let the bike sit for 2 weeks or so and when I went to start it up I noticed the oil was low, added oil, started it up. It ran fine but once it got warm it died. It was late so I didnt mess with it that night, the next morning I noticed more oil than usual under the bike, it had come from the primary breather. The next day I drained the oil thinking that I had over filled it, I drained it from the engine plug while on the side stand and from the plug in the oil tank, put 2.5 quarts in it, started it up, same thing, runs fine, died when it got warm, and oil out of the breather. Im sure it didnt drain all the way, but how much could still be in there? I am still in the mind set of too much oil. Then I get to searching and read about oil pump issues, now I am a bit shook up.

I havent checked the oil pressure since this shit started but it had great pressure before.

My questions are:
1. If the oil pressure was really good before, what are the chances of it being my oil pump?
2.would having too much oil in the engine cause it to spit out of the breather

3. how should I go about diagnosing this

4. Why the [email protected]#$ is it dying

Sorry for the long winded post, I am slightly retarded.
 

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Sounds to me like its wet sumping did you replace the oil pump as part of the build? there might be some "debris" in the pump from the build and causing the check ball not to seat. I'm sure someone will chime in soon with a much better explanation and attack plan but i would pull the pump make sure its clean and if its not new get new bals and re seat them
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I didnt replace the oil pimp, but the bike had very low miles, and the pump was in perfect working order.

hmmmmm.

the inside of the engine was veery clean

Sounds to me like its wet sumping did you replace the oil pump as part of the build? there might be some "debris" in the pump from the build and causing the check ball not to seat. I'm sure someone will chime in soon with a much better explanation and attack plan but i would pull the pump make sure its clean and if its not new get new bals and re seat them
 

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redashphalt - why do you think it's the oil pump? My '68 is doing the same thing, it isn't dying when hot but the Breather is pissing oil.

what did torch saw was the problem?

thanks brother!
 

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It sounds like you fellas might have just done an oil change recently,and pulled the crankcase plug when you changed the oil.That's disturbed some rubbish and it found its way to the return pump.
Don't pull the crankcase plug without good reason.You don't need to do it to change oil.Now you have a good reason to pull the plug out,but make sure it's bloody clean before it goes back.Even clean around it before you take it out.

When you've got the plug out,there's a fair chance you can blow the rubbish right through the return pump with compressed air up the pickup tube in the crankcase.You might need to rotate the engine slightly so the pump piston uncovers the ports in the pump.

The rubbish should blow out the return line,if you're lucky.Run the return line into a bucket when you blow air through the pump.Leave it run into the bucket for about 30 seconds after you start the engine again.

After you replace the crankcase plug,pour about 1/2 cup of oil into the engine through one rockerbox and let it seep down to the crankcase.Start up and see if you have good oil return.
 

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"I let the bike sit for 2 weeks or so and when I went to start it up I noticed the oil was low."

Would suggest to me that oil is getting past the pump. Nortons are good for that with a worn pump.
How well do you know this bike? Just because the engine looks clean dont mean the pump isn't workin' right. The manwell states..........how to check ball valve pretty well for a triumph manual.

Pete is right about leaving drain plug alone for an oil change, but on a 1st oil change after a rebuild I would do it because I seen all the shit which drops in that pan. Just make sure it's real clean down around that hole man.
After all, the flywire holds just the larger shit back, that's why we use external oil filters.
 

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huh... well for me, I just snatched this bike up. sitting for god knows how long but new fluids, wires, hoses and ignition and she fired right up!

runs great aside from the breather spitting oil. never took off the drain plug though.
 

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hoping to bring this thread back.

I put a quart of oil in my trump today and the breather was SHOOTING oil. It was nuts. kicked it like 30 times and got a beer bottle full of oil.

any suggestions? I've heard of dudes just running the breather back into the oil tank. My tank has a breather of its own also.
 

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you can just keep adding oil and running for a while, it may clear the pump and settle down, or you will need to pull the pump and clean the check valves.

but you are over oiling the rings by running it while it is still sumping the crank case with oil.
 

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I always run the case breather back to the oil tank..and do u have the gasket behind yr oil pump? and make sure its on right if u do and not blocking the holes any..I know this is simple but next time u start it look in the oil tank for good return back to the tank,,and make sure the rocker feed is also getting good feed..u could also pull yr oil pressuer cap and check the piston and spring out..
 

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I might as well tag on to this thread. Same problem on a T100. I am running a 5 sided Santee oil tank with built in oil filter from the mid to late 70's. There is a K&L breather over the breather. The engine is not sumping, I have already checked that. At idle after a ride, you can literally see the oil vapor coming out of the breather. I also have a weep at the rear rocker box which may be the source of the spray on my oil tank. I will take some pictures and add them of my dirty bike. I have about 400km on the bike since a complete rebuild. Currently running Lucas 10W50 as it is on the cooler side up here. I will switch to 20W50 as the weather warms.

Here are a few pics of my oil spill.

Left side with breather below and to the left.


Rear Rocker box showing poor seal.


The whole picture.
 

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...hello Drumrooster, the engine breather back to the oil tank is a not so good idea, with all those engine fumes, etc, the foamy.
 

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There is a K&L breather over the breather. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - -
At idle after a ride, you can literally see the oil vapor coming out of the breather.
That seems normal enough.That's why they fitted a big hose to that breather outlet.With a low air speed in the big hose,the oil droplets could fall out of suspension and go to the bottom of the hose.With an uphill run on the hose,that oil would eventually run back to the primary.
The length of the hose gave droplets plenty of time to fall out of suspension.Even with more blowby from worn rings,not much oil came out of the hose.

If you join the breather to the oil tank,the breather and oil tank breather join outside the tank.Crankcase fumes come from both,and they join to another hose which allows them to escape.
 

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that K&N filter is not a good idea for a exhaust breather, as it becomes more saturated with oil it restricts more air.

K&N oiled filters work great as an intake filter, but not too good as an over oiled breather filter.
 

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that K&N filter is not a good idea for a exhaust breather, as it becomes more saturated with oil it restricts more air.

K&N oiled filters work great as an intake filter, but not too good as an over oiled breather filter.
I think I may have had this problem causing more leaks . I'm q gonna remove the filter.style breather and see what happens now that I'm all sealed up again. I have about 500 mles and it still mists but I bet is closer to being plugged and the pressure has to go somewhere so it is pushing out where it can.
 

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This is for the original poster.
If oil is filling the crankcase its also filling the primary (on that silly share oil breathe through primary case setup), the levels will be the same in each area so the components in the primary as well as crank and pistons coming down are all literally trying to push shit uphill.
Break open that timing case man and attend to the pump.
 

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Hey Loffer, maybe youre still getting blowby, 400 kms aint a lot, some rings take longer than others to bed in properly. Have you been 'givin' it some stick' right from the start of rebuild or takin it easy?
 

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Hey Loffer, maybe youre still getting blowby, 400 kms aint a lot, some rings take longer than others to bed in properly. Have you been 'givin' it some stick' right from the start of rebuild or takin it easy?
He has 500 miles, so 800km. How long does it normally take?
 
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