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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just started ripping apart my 66 Triumph 650. I'd like to cut into the primary cover and reveal the chain and clutch assembly. I know in stock condition the chain ran in an oil bath. Is this necessary, do I need a different chain or is the stock one OK to run like this?
 

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just lube the chain as you would the rear drive chain i'd guess.

i'd give more thought to clutch rollers/bearing running dry and suitability of plates running dry.
 

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I have questions about this in regards to lubrication and keeping dirt and crap out of the clutch bearing...chain or belt....is there a "aftermarket" sealed bearing that replaces the thrustwasher and roller bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All good points, I see these cut-aways on tons of bikes, many pro built using what looks like the stock clutch (falcon bullet), so someone must have solved the bearing problem. Anyone here running an open trumpet chain drive please chime in.
 

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Interested also. I just found my primary adjuster housing broke right off when I went to put the plug in so its belt drive it replace the case half or dry primary with again. The stock. lclutch cover you might have seen could be a hayward belt drive that uses the stock bearing.I don't think there is a replacement for this I have been through the whole hayward stock bearing usage on the board already. I think if your gonna run the dry chain you are gonna have to deal with excessive wear of the parts made to be used wet. I was thinking of reinforcing the adjuster ramp with some nylon like chain runners on dirtbikes.
 

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If I remember correctly A 66 has the hub that locates the copper thrust washer with two dimples into two holes on the hub ? and the whole assembly slops around like a prick in a shirt sleeve. if you go to the later hub with a bi metal thrust washer, the whole thing fits up a lot better and will, In my opinion hold grease better.
My opinion is that the primary oil bath is only there to lubricate the chain . Every clutch combination I have tried works better dry & the roller bearings are packed with grease on assembly, ATF or engine oil only serves to wash it out quicker.
When switching to a belt drive, the oil bath is for cooling, not for lubricating (in fact the oil bath shortens the life of the belt as it will go brittle in oil after about 3-4 years.
Also the primary should be vented for air cooling if running dry.
I use the cheapest English made alloy belt drive kits on the market, with stock roller bearings dry. I probably wouldn't go drag racing, but I'm not seeing excessive wear.
 

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These are the ones Loffer, fair quality alloy friction plates, cant complain about the price,
I took a picture of the early and late type clutch hubs as well, the early one with the copper washer on the right

 

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A while back an old timer told me to put a T140 sprocket, chain and basket on my 64 TR6. He said it will fit and run just fine with ATF. He said there is nothing I can do that stock clutch plates won't handle. Basically, he called me a pussy. It is my next project. I'll let you know how it works.
 

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So after having a coffee and a think about it....

pressed the outer race out of an old clutch basket



grabbed some sealed bearings



turned up a spacer to replace the outer race, its only mild steel because the bearings wont run in it anymore



I will have to look at the hub again, might need to take a whisker off for clearance & decide if I can ditch the thrust washer.

materials less than $10, 20mins machine time....

I still think the lubrication issue is with the chain not the hub bearings, though I remember seeing a couple of Triumphs around with open primary/chromed double row chains, maybe they weren't riders though
 

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when you guys get tired of all the leaks and clutch slippage, chain and belt problems. Just put the best in there, get a Bob Newby Belt Drive, you will never have any more problems.
When it comes to belt drives there is the Newby's, and then all the ones that almost work.
 

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A while back an old timer told me to put a T140 sprocket, chain and basket on my 64 TR6. He said it will fit and run just fine with ATF. He said there is nothing I can do that stock clutch plates won't handle. Basically, he called me a pussy. It is my next project. I'll let you know how it works.
the t-140 has a triple roller chain and a deeper clutch basket with more plates. It will bolt right but i was told by a reputable builder the excess bulk is not good for the bearings and will wear even more parts rapidly. I have spoke with newby about a belt drive and the prices are good as far as I'm concerned but I went from what I thought was a finished Bike to needing a belt drive for a low budget build that is fine except for the broken primary adjuster on the case. Bummer.
 

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The secret to the Newby is the clutch hub bearing is almost the same size as the clutch basket, here is a pic of the back side the clutch hub is the aluminum part, the basket is the darker material and it uses the same clutch discs as the speedway bikes use.
 

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The secret to the Newby is the clutch hub bearing is almost the same size as the clutch basket, here is a pic of the back side the clutch hub is the aluminum part, the basket is the darker material and it uses the same clutch discs as the speedway bikes use.
Hey bro, show me one of those belt drives with 100,000 miles, then I'll part with my bread!
 

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here is a pic of the front, 6 springs make it a real easy to pull clutch that doesn't slip. bigger springs are available for big horsepower motors.
It is the only belt drive we sell and install. well worth the extra money.
 
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