Triumph Pre-Unit Timing and Oil Lines

6303 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by AussieGreg, May 13, 2012

AussieGreg

Discussion Starter · May 11, 2012

I have a 1952 Triumph 6t. I've ran two of my oil lines and having trouble with the other two. I order all the parts for the oil tank, but for the feed line I received a nut that doesn't seem long enough and no nipple to attach the line to. Does anyone have a picture of what it should look like?

The other line is the one that goes from the top of the oil tank to the bottom of the crank case and it seems like the two would need different diameter lines. Is there some sort of conection I should be using in the middle to increase the line diameter?

In regards to timing the bike I went down the road to a triumph guy to see if he had a degree wheel I could borrow and he said that bikes should not be timed this way and that it will not time them correctly. On the Triumph 101 DVD, Wes uses one to time his bike. So should I get a degree wheel? Also are those piston stop with the increments any good for timing?

The other thing is that the guy also said that because I have a solid gear on my magneto that the bike won't start and run properly. He told me I needed to buy an auto advance timing gear. Should I buy one or is the solid timing gear fine to run?

Cheers, Greg

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Aussie Tbird

· #2 · May 11, 2012

Hi Greg,

Feed line: this should screw onto the bottom of the filter on the tank

Top of oil tank to bottom of crank case? You mean to the back of the primary case perhaps?

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Aussie Tbird

· #3 · May 11, 2012

Aussie Tbird said:
Hi Greg,

Feed line: this should screw onto the bottom of the filter on the tank

Top of oil tank to bottom of crank case? You mean to the back of the primary case perhaps?

oil line to oil tank/filter fitting

Top of oil tank to back of crankcase looks something like this.

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Tony the torch

· #4 · May 11, 2012

the auto advance gear is not needed, most of the auto advance gears we see now days are worn out and it movement is far beyond the 12 degrees it is supposed to move. And the phanallic teeth material is crispy and weak.
Just go with a fixed gear, set it at 38 BTC you'll be fine.

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Mr.Pete

· #5 · May 11, 2012

They run OK with a solid gear,and the timing fixed at full advance.I prefer to set it closer to 35 degrees than 38 degrees.
Use a degree wheel,and check that both cylinders have the same timing.You can find big timing differences with a magneto,but it's easily fixed.

It will start OK without much kick-back,if you don't give it too much throttle at start-up.A swift kick helps.It will idle fine.
Don't load the engine heavily below 3500 rpm,and you'll have no problem.

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dandruff

· #6 · May 11, 2012

In response to the degree wheel, when used correctly it is the most accurate way to time an engine. I have never met any competent engine builder that does not use one to check cam and ignition timing.
Any tool that uses something threaded into the spark plug hole should account for the 45º angle of the plug or it will be inaccurate.
Use a degree wheel if you are going to see any high rpm with this bike.

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AussieGreg

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 13, 2012

Hey thanks Aussie T-bird. It's a bit tricky building a bike from a basket case, when you have no bikes to look at for reference. Those pictures help heaps and hopefully I can finish the oil lines once I pick up that oil feed connecter. I have the nut just didn't get the connected sent.

Tony the torch/ Mr Pete: Yer I thought it should run fine with the fixed timing gear and I'll try and pick up a degree wheel soon so I can time the bike as well. I read somewhere about in hotter climates a fixed timing gear can be a bit harsh on the engine. Any idea if this is true and should I change the timing slightly due to this?

Dandruff: I may as well pick up one of those graduated piston tools off eBay and see if they have any accuracy for reference, at the least I'll use it as a piston stop. They're pretty cheap, so it'll save me the money and time of making one up myself.

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