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Flyin' Dutchman said:
Now... Where do I start from... it's running pretty well, but I have the feeling that there should be more "go" in the motor..

I run a velocity stack and pretty short drag pipes... QUOTE]

well, if you wanna "GO" the hunt mag needs to go also
they LOOK real cool, but
no advance, so if its running good round town, it wont at speed, and vice versa
theres no happy medium
unless you get the ard cdi unit

go points or boyer
oversize valves
932 carb
supertrapps
your pipes need to be 1.75" x 29"
cams

then start thinking bout flowing head, lightening valve train etc
 

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Flyin' Dutchman said:
When I open the throttle, after about 1/3 or half throttle, I have the feeling I'm going nowhere...
Someone on here said earlier, that the Joe Hunt mag doesn't advance enough..
the is NO advance on a hunt mag

if it runs good at idle, you will have NO power at high RPMs, as it will be running retarded

thats exactly why i went with a boyer
if i had known about the ARD CDI, i would have gone that route
 

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GumbyChuck said:
rich at part throttle - drop your needle a clip
might have reversion problem too - how long are your pipes?

last I saw, around $500US
retarded ignition acts like its rich

this is the only way i know of how to make a hunt work sorta right for street, a guy from cirrillo magneto helped me do this initialy (bare with me, it was a long time ago)

use the tdc body plunger to set pistons @ 38degrees btdc and setup mag per hunt's instructions(full advance)
mark position on adaptor plate and mag housing, this is your full advance mark
rotate mag back to 14degrees btdc and mark adator plate, this is your full retard mark

start bike at retard mark, manually advance mag as far as you can without killing it, and if you want to GO, kick mag to full advance mark

you could rig something up as a full advance stop

i had my idle pretty high, that helped a bit

has to be fully advanced to read plugs after WOT
 
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