Jockey Journal Forum banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
568 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I now got to the stage of getting my last bugs out of my bike... Trying to get rid of some leaks and so on... Experimenting with some stuff..

I have the feeling that I made a huge progress compared to my previous motor/set up... But I have the feeling that there should be way more power available from that thing...

What setups do you guys use... I wanna hear some in depth stuff..

I got my basic set up from Bass... I'm now running a unit motor, Morgo 750 kit, stock cams, 4 speed, 930 Amal Concentric with 240 jet..

Now... Where do I start from... it's running pretty well, but I have the feeling that there should be more "go" in the motor..

Where should I set my needle in the carb? Top, middle, or bottom groove..? What jet should I start with..? How do you set the pilot screw..?
I run a Joe Hunt mag... How many degrees before TDC does yours fire..?

I run a velocity stack and pretty short drag pipes... I hope to find/build some longer ones soon... Little more back pressure and less noise..

Come on guys... Let's hear some stuff... I wanna get my sickle scary fast... And I also hope to become a Triumph guru one day.. The more I mess with it, the more I can learn!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
Flyin' Dutchman said:
I now got to the stage of getting my last bugs out of my bike... Trying to get rid of some leaks and so on...
I'm sorry that this news comes so late in your build but I found a guy (a brit bike racing Canadian) at www.britgaskets.com that makes some cool gaskets out of carbon fiber/NBR binder. They look great and I'm trying them out on the 750 that I'm doing now. They sure seem to beat the hell out of those OE style paper gaskets that the brits are always offering up. Supposedly these gaskets have cured many of the leaking issues AND they are supposed to be reusable if they are applied correctly from the start. Like I said earlier, the manufacturer is a racer and pulls his stuff apart a lot. I'll let you guys know how they work out. The only drawback is that he produces stuff mostly from requests so he doesn't have a full line for every size brit engine. But he does take suggestions and if enough people want something, he'll do it.

Flyin' Dutchman said:
But I have the feeling that there should be way more power available from that thing...
This is purely my opinion but I have the feeling that some of your lack of power is a combo of the short pipes and the mag.

Mags look cool and I've heard good things about them in racing situations but I don't think they are versatile enough for mainly street performace apps. That's why I'm a fan of the Boyer. I think on an engine where you have to synchronize two carbs and two plugs to deliver and fire dependably, EI helps a lot.

On the exhaust side, there was a really good post on the HAMB a while back where a bunch of guys were addressing pipe lenght and style versus performance but I can't remember who started it so it might take some in depth searching. I think with displacement as small as 600-800 cc, coupled with short intake paths and EXTREMELY short exhaust paths that one needs some length and back pressure in the exhaust to help 'tune' it.

Flyin' Dutchman said:
What setups do you guys use... I wanna hear some in depth stuff..
I'll join in the request for info by asking about valve size and compression. Anybody increasing valve size and to what? And what compression are you able to get away with while staying cool and using the sad pump gas we get now?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
568 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That gasket guy looks like a good deal... i'll check that out!

I'm defenitely gonna install some longer pipes... hopefully I can gain some power with those. Did I mention I run a single carb..
I really do like my mag though... The bike starts very well with it too.. Very powerful spark.

I run stock sized valves... Talking about the poor gas... Overhere we can easily get 95 and 98 octane pumpgas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,145 Posts
Maurice,

I am not an "engine guy," so feel free to ignore most of what I say. But having messed with triumphs off and on for six years, I have learned the following:

(1) Your 750 big bore kit is the most you should do, displacement-wise, if you want a streetable setup. The 850 kits really stretch the limits of the unit motor and will substantially increase the number of rebuilds you will have to do (or so I've been told).

(2) Get your heads ported and polished by someone that knows what the fuck they are doing. Can't stress this enough, ported heads make a difference on a triumph. After getting the head on my '68 bonneville motor done a couple years ago, I felt a marked improvement.

(3) Weight reduction, including the engine. Lighten the flywheel. Drill holes in the side covers where you can. Drill the springer. Drill everywhere. This may either improve or detract from the aesthetics of your bike though, depending on what you like. I have always dug the drilled look.

I don't know what else to tell you. I really doubt you could do much to your setup to make it faster and keep it streetable. You have a big bore kit, a single carb for better acceleration, a magneto, which is the most efficient iginition system AND the lightest, since you don't need a battery, and you have a pretty stripped down bike, so you can't lose too much more weight.

Hopefully the experts will chime in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
hatch said:
My triumph guru says....3" intake extensions between the carb and head...
Interesting. I'll have to try that. Thanks for the tip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
568 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Porting my head might be a nice option for next winter..

I started installing my scrambler pipes... They are not much longer than the drag pipes, but smaller in diam.. maybe I will see/feel a difference.. Only have to fix a bracket for 'em...
I will post results as soon as the bike is running again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Gotta chime in with a yep on a few things -

-small diameter longer pipes
-extension from carb to head (really hard to do on single carb setup,though)

A few other thoughts:
You didn't mention WHICH stock cams you were using. Some years are better than others.

What year is the head? Later ones have larger valves...

On the needle setting, and the pilot jet - pilot jet on a concentric affects idle and just off idle, needle clip position is mid range, main jet is WOT. These are more tuning for smoothness of operation and proper mixture than performance. How does she idle, does it stumble, what do your plugs look like?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Flyin' Dutchman said:
Now... Where do I start from... it's running pretty well, but I have the feeling that there should be more "go" in the motor..

I run a velocity stack and pretty short drag pipes... QUOTE]

well, if you wanna "GO" the hunt mag needs to go also
they LOOK real cool, but
no advance, so if its running good round town, it wont at speed, and vice versa
theres no happy medium
unless you get the ard cdi unit

go points or boyer
oversize valves
932 carb
supertrapps
your pipes need to be 1.75" x 29"
cams

then start thinking bout flowing head, lightening valve train etc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
568 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
GumbyChuck said:
Gotta chime in with a yep on a few things -

-small diameter longer pipes
-extension from carb to head (really hard to do on single carb setup,though)

A few other thoughts:
You didn't mention WHICH stock cams you were using. Some years are better than others.

What year is the head? Later ones have larger valves...

On the needle setting, and the pilot jet - pilot jet on a concentric affects idle and just off idle, needle clip position is mid range, main jet is WOT. These are more tuning for smoothness of operation and proper mixture than performance. How does she idle, does it stumble, what do your plugs look like?
Well.. I don't know what year head is (probably late 60's early 70's)... The cams I got.. I compared them to the 69's and 73's I have and they're all exactly the same..

I think I'm gonna try another jet... try a bigger one, try a smaller one.. Just see what happens.
I'll leave the needle clip on midrange..
She idles great... Just perfect.
Plugs are pretty much coffee brown... there's a small difference between right and left...

From what a collegue of mine told me... He said: Run WOT in top gear, then kill the motor... That's when you should check the color of the plugs.. I didn't do that though..
I checked 'em only after a long ride... then just got back to the house, shut the motor down and checked the plugs..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
568 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Brian Douglas said:
Flyin' Dutchman said:
Now... Where do I start from... it's running pretty well, but I have the feeling that there should be more "go" in the motor..

I run a velocity stack and pretty short drag pipes... QUOTE]

well, if you wanna "GO" the hunt mag needs to go also
they LOOK real cool, but
no advance, so if its running good round town, it wont at speed, and vice versa
theres no happy medium
unless you get the ard cdi unit

go points or boyer
oversize valves
932 carb
supertrapps
your pipes need to be 1.75" x 29"
cams

then start thinking bout flowing head, lightening valve train etc
Mmm... That's a whole lotta motor..

I will probably get an ARD in the future... She runs perfect around town indeed... But hauling ass on the freeway is indeed pretty far away..

I'll check on those pipes..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Flyin' Dutchman said:
Well.. I don't know what year head is (probably late 60's early 70's)... The cams I got.. I compared them to the 69's and 73's I have and they're all exactly the same..
you should have the largest of the stock valves then...I have a '63 single carb head on my 71 and put the later valves in...you can get larger, aftermarket valves....if you go to the length of having the head ported and flowed you might want to do this step.

Flyin' Dutchman said:
think I'm gonna try another jet... try a bigger one, try a smaller one.. Just see what happens.
I'll leave the needle clip on midrange..
She idles great... Just perfect.
Plugs are pretty much coffee brown... there's a small difference between right and left.....
remember the jet has the most effect on WOT....the difference between right and left is likely difference in carburetion...how did you synch the carbs?

Flyin' Dutchman said:
From what a collegue of mine told me... He said: Run WOT in top gear, then kill the motor... That's when you should check the color of the plugs.. I didn't do that though..
I checked 'em only after a long ride... then just got back to the house, shut the motor down and checked the plugs..
he is correct....shut down right after wide open throttle...engine off, coast/brake to a stop, then check.

let us know what kinda results you get
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
I'm sure I am speaking sacrilegiously ..... But talking go fast .... you guys ever think of dropping the Amal(s) and going with a Mikuni(s) .... Most of the fastest, and best running Triumphs I have seen were running them .... Especially if the bike was more than a straight liner...

Ya they just don't look all that cool......

And yes, both my T's are still running the Amal .... But, the '67 may end up with one or two .........
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,854 Posts
A good friend of mine that was building strokers in the thirties always tuned his bikes this way....Kill switch on the handlebars....WOT in high gear.....hit the kill...pull over and pull the plugs and check em....he said even a short time idling will change the reading....So I agree with the previous post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,573 Posts
I know nothing of what you speak.What does WOT mean. I am not sure that I have ever had WOT. Is there oinment for this condition.:confused: LoL If I have had it I would be very afriad that it would spread.

Very helpful hints Chuck.
Later Shoe:rolleyes:
GumbyChuck said:
remember the jet has the most effect on WOT....the difference between right and left is likely difference in carburetion...how did you synch the carbs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
TRIUMPH TERROR said:
I know nothing of what you speak.What does WOT mean. I am not sure that I have ever had WOT. Is there oinment for this condition.:confused: LoL If I have had it I would be very afriad that it would spread.
C'mon man, you know, roll it on til you see the Lord....

Wide Open Throttle
or
Wide Fuggin' Open
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Pure Hell said:
I'm sure I am speaking sacrilegiously ..... But talking go fast .... you guys ever think of dropping the Amal(s) and going with a Mikuni(s) .... Most of the fastest, and best running Triumphs I have seen were running them .... Especially if the bike was more than a straight liner...

Ya they just don't look all that cool......

And yes, both my T's are still running the Amal .... But, the '67 may end up with one or two .........
True, didn't think to mention it.
Just really HATE the look of the Mikuni.
Saw a bunch on Brit bikes at the SMSO this weekend, don't like'em.
And, if he's picking nits, get a twin carb head, they do make (barely) more power on the top end.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
Flyin' Dutchman said:
Porting my head might be a nice option for next winter..
Hey Maurice, that sounds like a perfect time to try out our theory of bigger single carb and bigger valves, along with hatch's suggestion about the intake runner? ;)
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top