Triumph Gooseneck 1971 Big bore rebuild.
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1,598 Posts
The reason I was asking about the single pedal operating both breaks was at one point I was looking at doing the same thing....some people commented on the idea and I nixed it once someone brought up the idea of attempting to stop on different surfaces.
Having them proportioned for dry asphalt is fine if that is all you are going to ride but then that can easily change with a little wetness...
Having them proportioned for dry asphalt is fine if that is all you are going to ride but then that can easily change with a little wetness...
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531 Posts
Maybe use a proportioning valve?Yes, that is what i am thinking... the problem may be the difference of the throw of the brake lever for the 2 different brakes. I could always do a remote MC and have a cable lever like the clutch lever. Thanks Spade
Nice goose!
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10 Posts
stance is awesome bro. Big bore? did you do a 750 kit? I have a 70, been thinking of going to a kit. what did you do??
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3,168 Posts
750 morgo kit. Cant say anything about it havnt run it yet. thanks for all the compliments
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3,168 Posts
I guess its being done succesfully enough with the porportioning valve but I was saying it being used on the drum brake lever , I am not sure if that is the same as what your bike is or what your thinking ? I think maybe there might be too much serperate adjustement for the 2 different kind of brakes. It might work ok at first until you have to adjust the drum throw. Kinda thinking out loud. Basically I dont want a big master on my handlebars. I might just buy a nice tiny Kustomtech MC and be done with it.
A couple shots of the all important headsteadies and stuff they are pretty much hidden, Heres a shot of Chad on the bike hes 6'3" and has a huge reach . you can see how cramped his legs are with stock peg position, lol... I might be able to fire it up this week....
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10 Posts
did you do high compression 10.5:1 or stock 9.5:1?
just curious. I know you said you havent run it yet, but when you do........power difference?
just curious. I know you said you havent run it yet, but when you do........power difference?
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3,168 Posts
I really dont know? It was new, i aquired the kit, I would guess its the lower compression piston for street use.
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675 Posts
Dude, I realy like what you've done on this one.Keep the pics coming.
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3,168 Posts
Seen your bike in the Horse, good show!
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3,168 Posts
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85 Posts
I like it. Kind of got a Shinya KIMURA feel to it.
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1,023 Posts
Your rides are long but they have good stance.
Kinda like a tiger set to pounce.
Good stuff man.
Kinda like a tiger set to pounce.
Good stuff man.
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675 Posts
My bike is in "The Horse " ? Holly shit ! which issue ? (sorry about the hijack )
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1,362 Posts
I love that bike.
You could run dual masters side by side with a balance bar.
Or better yet, just run it as a car with disc & drums would.., wa la. 5/8" tandem mini master. Its tube shaped, very small.
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...aspx?minorname=TM1 5/8 Tandem Master Cylinder
You could run dual masters side by side with a balance bar.
Or better yet, just run it as a car with disc & drums would.., wa la. 5/8" tandem mini master. Its tube shaped, very small.
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...aspx?minorname=TM1 5/8 Tandem Master Cylinder
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3,168 Posts
Glad people are digging it , no pun intended... Dropped the seat and moved it back , raised the oil tank so the chain wont hit it added chain tensioner it has 124 links . added pullback risers and it still almost touches the tank. Still have to have bars made.
Extended my right side pipes and lowered my pegs, I am gonna lower them about another 2" and the bike will have a decent riding postion. New belt drive.
I am settling with a regular master cyl .it will be Kustomtech controls. I dont want the cables/lines running up the frame and back and dont want an MC mounted on the springer so its clean bars or clean frame. Im going with the clean frame. Almost all the wires will be hidden and it will have an internal throttle. Sorry about blurry pics its under a flueoresent and i cant get them much better for now. On to cleanup finish welding and powder in the next couple days , bronze frame , rootbeer tins and black everything else. Chrome front end and bars with some stainless mixed in. satin motor im not into the high polish. Dan Super Crouton chain tensioner. It is a great piece o fab Dan is the man.
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no pun intended... Dropped the seat and moved it back , raised the oil tank so the chain wont hit it added chain tensioner it has 124 links . added pullback risers and it still almost touches the tank. Still have to have bars made. Extended my right side pipes and lowered my pegs, I am gonna lower them about another 2" and the bike will have a decent riding postion. New belt drive.
I am settling with a regular master cyl .it will be Kustomtech controls. I dont want the cables/lines running up the frame and back and dont want an MC mounted on the springer so its clean bars or clean frame. Im going with the clean frame. Almost all the wires will be hidden and it will have an internal throttle. Sorry about blurry pics its under a flueoresent and i cant get them much better for now. On to cleanup finish welding and powder in the next couple days , bronze frame , rootbeer tins and black everything else. Chrome front end and bars with some stainless mixed in. satin motor im not into the high polish. Dan Super Crouton chain tensioner. It is a great piece o fab Dan is the man.
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443 Posts
You might wanna rethink that head steady , they really need to articulate from both ends because the rigid end will apply a lot of torque on the the bolts it is secured by
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