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Triumph Gooseneck 1971 Big bore rebuild.

11K views 55 replies 30 participants last post by  Loffer 
#1 · (Edited)
Triumph digger 1971 Big bore build.

Almost done. Be making a few changes like different bars and peg position and modifying the exhaust so theres alittle leg room. See how you guys like...
 
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Discussion starter · #4 · (Edited)
No, I dont have those skills ;) Its a Tigman one off I picked up from someone. I am liking the stance.
I had a Triumph hardtail pretty much finished but tore it all back down when I found this frame. Flyright Springer , 21" starhub with disc conversion, triumph 16" cotten spool rear.

I have to change the exhaust mounts to accomadate the lowered pegs but i should be able to move them under the peg. I think i am gonna do a front master cylinder off the rear brake to run the front caliper to keep the bars clean...
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
..I am extremely curious how you plan on doing that setup...are you talking about "operating" both the rear drum and front disc from the rear break pedal?
Yes, that is what i am thinking... the problem may be the difference of the throw of the brake lever for the 2 different brakes. I could always do a remote MC and have a cable lever like the clutch lever. Thanks Spade ;)
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
gonna be able to turn with the pegs down low like that?

yeah i forsee that being a problem, especially given that the drum will 'operate' differently as it wears...
I will have to turn slowly. Good point , on the drum. I am not painting till winter . I like the bare metal. The handlebars , rear fender , and springer will.stay natural and alloy/chrome. I might keep it silver, along the natural steel color. Was thinking Patina finishes not shiny new.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Loffer, love the stance of the bike, you really nailed the proportions of rake, tank, wheels, that so many get wrong. Awesome
Thanks, yea its not too hard t o line the bottom rails up level with the right size wheel. Yep there's headsteadys I will post more shots as I go. I am gonna give the pegs a test run before I drill new holes i need to get as much leg room as possible i want the bike to be able to be ridden.
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
The reason I was asking about the single pedal operating both breaks was at one point I was looking at doing the same thing....some people commented on the idea and I nixed it once someone brought up the idea of attempting to stop on different surfaces.
Having them proportioned for dry asphalt is fine if that is all you are going to ride but then that can easily change with a little wetness...
I guess its being done succesfully enough with the porportioning valve but I was saying it being used on the drum brake lever , I am not sure if that is the same as what your bike is or what your thinking ? I think maybe there might be too much serperate adjustement for the 2 different kind of brakes. It might work ok at first until you have to adjust the drum throw. Kinda thinking out loud. Basically I dont want a big master on my handlebars. I might just buy a nice tiny Kustomtech MC and be done with it.

A couple shots of the all important headsteadies and stuff they are pretty much hidden, Heres a shot of Chad on the bike hes 6'3" and has a huge reach . you can see how cramped his legs are with stock peg position, lol... I might be able to fire it up this week....




 
Discussion starter · #39 · (Edited)
Glad people are digging it , ;) no pun intended... Dropped the seat and moved it back , raised the oil tank so the chain wont hit it added chain tensioner it has 124 links . added pullback risers and it still almost touches the tank. Still have to have bars made.
Extended my right side pipes and lowered my pegs, I am gonna lower them about another 2" and the bike will have a decent riding postion. New belt drive.
I am settling with a regular master cyl .it will be Kustomtech controls. I dont want the cables/lines running up the frame and back and dont want an MC mounted on the springer so its clean bars or clean frame. Im going with the clean frame. Almost all the wires will be hidden and it will have an internal throttle. Sorry about blurry pics its under a flueoresent and i cant get them much better for now. On to cleanup finish welding and powder in the next couple days , bronze frame , rootbeer tins and black everything else. Chrome front end and bars with some stainless mixed in. satin motor im not into the high polish. Dan Super Crouton chain tensioner. It is a great piece o fab Dan is the man.

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Discussion starter · #43 · (Edited)
Thanks Marc, I usually hate pullbacks myself .

Englishmen, I have not . I am gonna take it for a ride its not terribly floppy thats a good sign its close. Your bike really looks good with that sugar bear it put the wheel it the right spot, I read your article about it I would like this bike to be a rider , maybe thats the next step to measure and see where its at.
 
Discussion starter · #50 · (Edited)
Got this prism tank but it didnt fit so i modified it . Went to a 19" front wheel with coker 4.00 matching the rear tire. Not mounted yet. both wheels are getting gloss black PC so no point in adding the tire yet. Handlebars/risers are gonna have to be changed and im gonna drop the headlight another couple inches to lower everything but i think I like the Prism ... I gotta remember to turn on the other light so the pictures arent so crappy.
I welded the tank with a mig welder , pressure tested and no leaks, haha ... In fact the whole things done with a mig welder . Lets hear some feedback on that tank...






 
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