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I'm rebuilding a 66 triumph TR6R with T120 head....and researching carb options....

whats most reliable? best performance? etc. everyone says Amals are a nightmare?

im looking for ease of dialing in/adjusting as well as reliability over performance but figured id open up the thread to all for everyone elses sake.

-Rob
 

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Gotta be Amals.....but old carbs are tough to synchronise due to uneven wear of the slides. New Amals are around 175 each..ouch. I love the look of dual Amals with original air cleaners, but a single Amal is easier to tune...even if it is worn. Mikunis work good, but look wrong.
 

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hatch said:
Gotta be Amals.....but old carbs are tough to synchronise due to uneven wear of the slides. New Amals are around 175 each..ouch. I love the look of dual Amals with original air cleaners, but a single Amal is easier to tune...even if it is worn. Mikunis work good, but look wrong.
..

from experience, and the vehement insistence of my local 30-yr Triumph wrench, the 'new' Amals Come with air-leak problems that will make you crazy unless you know 'just' how to remedy that ..

and old ones, carefully selected for not-too-much-clunkage in the slide/bore, and all the needle & jets right, can be all they ever were new ..

remember, you have a needle hanging loosely from a slide, that, after not much time 'banging back & to' in the flow, against the soft metal brass main jet, it Does re-size that jet .. boxes of jets, some needles, And o'rings for the two adjusting screws will keep you on the road with "old, throw-away" Amals for years ..

the Other key, is the mounting flange .. too many have been bolted tight against the head, because of the oring at the joint/flange, this distorts the body at the flange, extreme cases cause slides to hang up wide open at the worst time ..

if you have a decent-feeling slide and body, take the mount flange and wet emery cloth on a sheet of glass, and be sure it's flat .. and gentle hand mounting them .. that's why the oring is there, and the oem rubber-style (pre-nylock) nuts ..

all of the above has proven absolutely Right for the Triumphs & BSA's I run ....

there is a series of books by a cat, goes by "Panic" the Victory library series .. that has the most in-depth understandable Amal tech info out here ..

I'll be searching for a link .. but he hangs at the FlatheadPower forums, think his site is in his sig, if I dont get back with the specific Amal book link first ..

Amals work good, ya just gotta think like them ..

next diatribe .. making lucas electrics work ..

but let me try & find the Victory Library links ..

Doug ..

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Good info above.

Did you get any carbs w/ your project? If so, a good mod is to get them sleeved. Check out www.amr-of-tucson.com This also gets rid of the choke plungers inside the carbs, so one less cable to deal with.

The '66 Triumph came w/ Amal monoblocks, but concentrics have fewer moving parts. Mikunis work, but don't outflow the low tech Amals. I would choose an Amal Mk II or a DelOrto over a Mikuni.
 

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caffeine said:
I'm rebuilding a 66 triumph TR6R with T120 head....and researching carb options....

whats most reliable? best performance? etc. everyone says Amals are a nightmare?

im looking for ease of dialing in/adjusting as well as reliability over performance but figured id open up the thread to all for everyone elses sake.

-Rob
Hey Caffeine - Run AMALS man and don't fuck around with anything else!
They work the best!

Unless you want to fab a special manifold and run a weber carb or something like that!

Also - I have put a set of K-68 Pekar (Russian Ural carbs) They will bolt right on and very cheap - ($80 set) and they work well - but they look like Mikunii's.

If Amals are working properly - they are not hard at all to sync.

duki
 
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