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Yes, I've seen this solution before but don't like it very much, because what i don't like with my actual primary is the dome for the ele start...

So Dragstews, for my 67 FL (swing arm), to go with a tin primary, and keep the chain and compensator, I should order:

V-Twin # 17-6655
Paughco 753 L
Paughco 751
Paughco 757
Paughco 758

Do I forget something ?
Should I be aware of something before hitting the button?
 

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Yes, I've seen this solution before but don't like it very much, because what i don't like with my actual primary is the dome for the ele start...

So Dragstews, for my 67 FL (swing arm), to go with a tin primary, and keep the chain and compensator, I should order:

V-Twin # 17-6655
Paughco 753 L
Paughco 751
Paughco 757
Paughco 758

Do I forget something ?
Should I be aware of something before hitting the button?
I'm curious as to how your primary chain is gonna be oiled? I never had much luck keeping the oil inside on mine. And when I cut the oiler back enough to clear up the oil leaks under the bike, I started burning up chains. That's the main reason I went to a belt.
Larry T
 

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So Dragstews, for my 67 FL (swing arm), to go with a tin primary, and keep the chain and compensator, I should order:

V-Twin # 17-6655
Paughco 753 L
Paughco 751
Paughco 757
Paughco 758

Did I forget something ? (Nope)
Should I be aware of something before hitting the button? (Yep...See below)
Got all the numbers right.....

With keeping the chain, you will need to oil it from time to time if you intend to shut off the auto oiler on the pump...

A Belt is much less maintenance to it....And no oil leaks.
Install it....... and.........http://www.hark.com/clips/tvykypnqzg-forget-about-it-2

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Why should I shut off the auto oiler ?
I was thinking about re-installing it the way it is on the stock 1967 configuration...
Is it even possible?
If so, what are the pro and cons of this beside the leaks?
(those leaks are so big?)
 

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Why should I shut off the auto oiler ?
I was thinking about re-installing it the way it is on the stock 1967 configuration...
Is it even possible?
If so, what are the pro and cons of this beside the leaks?
(those leaks are so big?)
Most riders of the Gen. models will shut off the auto oiler cause for less oil leaks making a mess on the Bike, You, Girlfriend and wherever it will be parked more then five minutes ....

On the Tins there is no return from the Primary to the Motor like what you have on the 65-84 models...

The tins back in the day on the real ones,(From Harley) had a pipe nipple welded to the very back lower corner of the inner primary cover...This had a metal tube that ran to the rear chain to drip oil onto it...
Yeah I know...Kinda primitive...Guess after Harley been running this set-up for 50 years....And the EPA biting at there ass...They did the Alum. Primary's and added a Starter....Closing the loss oil....

Another modification that will need to be done on your OEM chain drive that is there now....Is to cut the welds on the stater ring gear in-order to remove the ring gear from the stock clutch basket....

That will be somewhat of a press fit to the basket....If you do a good job of removing the ring gear, can always weld it back on, whenever the day comes when you want to go back to Ele-Start (Alum. Primary) or get a new replacement ring gear to weld on...

That belt drive is sounding better all the time....Wouldn't you say..???
And you would not have the need to cut off the ring gear and no oil leaks...!!
Well.....At least in the Primary area....:)

And....You would be able to run the 54-back outer....

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Hmmm quite interesting...
I have to consider all that.
I already removed the ring gear because it was in poor shape and I was goin' kick only, due to missing parts on the ele starter.
The main reason why I wanted to keep my chain was to reduce the cost, but that oiling thing can be a pain in the ass, I thought it would work more or less as the stock config I have today...
Those belt kit are so damn expensive and always have a spare belt + the tools to change one on the side of the road isn't so nice...
Don't know what to do now....?
 

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If you get the 11mm Kevlar .....

You will be an Old, Old Man by the time you will need to replace it...
Revise.....Your Kid will be an Old Man...

On the oiling of the pri. chain....

Never seen it done.....But.....Don't see why it wouldn't work...
On the return hose ...Guess you could hook it up to the inner where the OEM fitting was at....

The vent hose from the motor wont work very well being the inner has a large opening at the trans mainshaft...

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Dragstews,

I want to tahnk you for taking your time to tell us all of this. I have been getting more info here from you then from my own research on line, from catalogs and from email with Primo. I now see they make the 11mm belt, discontinued the kit but can still buy what I need seperately. Now to get all of my pieces out and see how the inner primary fits with a trans with ears. I was told it can be done just not sure if the ears will stick out and look ugly. Will let you all know.

Mutt
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I want to add my thanks as well. I ordered my primary tins last week. I'll figure out if I want to modify the electric case or what when I get them.
 

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The vent hose from the motor wont work very well being the inner has a large opening at the trans mainshaft...
I don't understand what you mean in this sentence (english problem I guess) can you be more explicit ?

And also thank you for taking the time to answer with such precision to all my dumb questions !
 

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I don't understand what you mean in this sentence (english problem I guess) can you be more explicit ?
Take a look at the Oil Hose Routing in your Service Manual....
The vent line from the motor case (Will be the top of the case above the oil pump) runs to a Tee in the line....It runs to the inner pri. and the oil tank..

On the 65-up models being closed up on the alum. primary...
Why the Mo-Co did this was so the primary could vent build-up pressure back into the oil tank/motor....Later Evo's was also a sealed primary...They vented into the air...

Tell ya the truth about the need for oil on the chain....

Here is what I would do....If I was going to run a chain...
I would shut off the auto oiler and about every 1500-2000 miles hand lube it...
There are many company's that makes very good Chain lube..
I like PJ1 Black Label for Standard Chains (Non-O-ring) being for the reason of it's super tacky and won't fly off...(No oil Leaking from primary)

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Here is what I would do....If I was going to run a chain...
I would shut off the auto oiler and about every 1500-2000 miles hand lube it...
There are many company's that makes very good Chain lube..
I like PJ1 Black Label for Standard Chains (Non-O-ring) being for the reason of it's super tacky and won't fly off...(No oil Leaking from primary)
that sounds awesome ! :D
Give me time to invest now on the tins and later on a belt.
I've been told the primary chain was moving too fast and that was the reason why you couldn't oil it like the final transmission chain...
Do you think it will really work with a maintenance every 1500 miles?
 

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Yep it sounds like the kind of maintenance I'm capable of ;)
What should I order to get back to a solid sprocket?
Does it really affect the riding ? less smooth I guess...
 

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The Design of the Compensator was to smooth the motor's power pulses..
Every time it fired the ramps inside the compensator would ride up on each other...

These guys took it a little further in design.....

http://www.mcadvantages.com/fisher-...vo-175-dia-pulley_p_-1,1043,62,1031_23626.cfm

http://www.v-twinforum.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10904

But.....These would need the 55-up outer Tin...

Fellows.....

If your after a smooth ride....They help a bunch....
A Lead Wing would be the way to go about it...

Harley's are known as "The Milwaukee Vibrator"
......Your Girlfriends and Wife's will love it........

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=milwaukee%20vibrator

Should say a word about the shake...
With a good balance job with matching the resip. weights...Helps a great deal on that end of things.

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Just wanted to add to this, I pulled the studs out of the tranny, dug out my tin inner primary and held it up to the trans and the tin primary covers the ears on the electric start trans. No need to cut them off.

It also gave me a chance to see that my trans and rear sprocket don't line up and my tire/rim isn't centered but that's another storey.

Mutt
 

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Yeah, you don't need to cut the ears and should be able to run the bearing support, in my experience anyway.

I have had great luck with Paughco tins and Primo and BDL belt drives and clutches.
I actually just got a new early style Paughco tin inner and no offset front pulley insert to put a 1 1/2" Primo in tins on my '37 UL.
 
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