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Those rocker boxes look as awful as split boxes.
 

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Can't say I don't like them....
They are pretty dang wild looking...

But for me it would be backing up on what I'm running now.



Did a bunch of work to them....

Outside of being fully polished, counter-sunk for allen's, welded up OEM oil feed holes and relocated to run a Knuck oil line under the intake rocker arms...
They came from Strociek, (GME) back in the day...was going to get his ball milled ones, but wanted to keep the clean look going on....

If I was building a motor from the get-go and was in need of rocker boxes.
Those Fin Jobbie just might be on the list of parts to get...

Going to keep what is there for now...



I do like the looks of Polished Alum...Over plating...



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^^^Those boxes are way better looking than those other things.^^^ With split or those other things, it just doesn't look like a Shovel anymore.
 

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No adjuster. Also four holes for the primary. I'd hate to cut up a really nice trans case; I may want an electric on another bike. So I'll look for an older trans. Shit more money!
Gonna jump in here cause I have been looking into using a 65 trans on my flathead build. I am told but have not confirmed this yet, that you can just remove the studs from the ears on the trans and leave the ears in place and run your tim primary.

I was looking into the Primo Brute Classica and it comes with a clutch but I have heard the same thing that has been mentined here about the 8MM belt being to tight. A freind used it but found a longer belt for it. He said the clutch dragged with the tight belt.

As I said i am just looking into this stuff for my build, if any of you know something I said is not accurate please say so and save me some time.

Mutt
 

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Gonna jump in here cause I have been looking into using a 65 trans on my flathead build. I am told but have not confirmed this yet, that you can just remove the studs from the ears on the trans and leave the ears in place and run your tim primary.

The mainshaft will be about .250 longer then the 64-back....
You would be in need of the early shaft...May find that the ears on the later case will be in the way of the inner cover...Have done a cut-out to the inner's for running those cases....

I was looking into the Primo Brute Classica and it comes with a clutch but I have heard the same thing that has been mentined here about the 8MM belt being to tight. A freind used it but found a longer belt for it. He said the clutch dragged with the tight belt.

Think I would stay with the 11mm ones....Although a 80" falty don't have the pony's to break a 8mm polyester belt...

As I said i am just looking into this stuff for my build, if any of you know something I said is not accurate please say so and save me some time.

Mutt
Could be a can of worms...



Miss matching parts...

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Which ears on the trans case would be removed, if in fact it is REQUIRED to remove them? The two closest to the rear tire, or the inner two near the seat post, which are hidden by the primary when it is installed? Mine are just threaded holes, no studs at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Also, can I tell what length main shaft I have by measuring while the trans is still assembled? If I have the ’65-’69 shaft, which is only .255 longer, can I swap the guts, kicker and ratchet top into an older case?
 

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Both.....Front and rear....

What you would be doing is making a early case from the later...

Some of the early runs of that later case still had a boss casted in for the adjustment screw...Could drill and tap that boss in order to use the OEM type adjustor of the 64 and back cases.

Also, can I tell what length main shaft I have by measuring while the trans is still assembled?
Snap a photo of it and post...

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Not sure on where the clutch hub goes, or where exactly the 4th gear nut is. How long should it be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Looks like the early shaft has been put in already....

On the tapper, where the clutch hub goes, how far is the back edge of the tapper to the 4th gear, nut...???
Did you mean taper, with one "P", where it is slotted for a key? Is the 4th gear nut the big hex nut there by the sprocket?
 

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Yeah Taper....

At the fattest part of the taper to the edge of the 4th gear...

Your 4th gear is of the late design having a seal installed...(Late 66-90) or is aftermarket...Which would be correct for the year of your case...

Also the sprocket is on backwards ....
The cut on the face of the gear goes inwards to the case...

Some do turn it around, like what you have going on, for a bit of offset when running a non mechanical brake....

There are aftermarket sprockets that will give a 5/16 offset...
The one on the left is A/F...



Made for 73 up Big Twins....
Won't work on the mechanical brakes with-out big time mods going down...
In the photo of my 52 is one of these that I made from two sprockets..
Didn't need the full 5/16 offset for what I did...

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I am running a juice drum so if the sprocket has the right number of teeth(I'm running a 6.10x16, will be mostly cruising around town.) I should be good, provided I have the early shaft? I guess I need to pull the sprocket to measure, right? What's the number I'm looking for?
 

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It's not the number of teeth ....
It's more of the alinement of the chain/sprockets....

Do you have the stock clutch hub...??
If so install it on the shaft finger tight with the nut...
Try to get a photo looking down the back edge of the clutch hub...

This will show me how much room you have going on between the rear of the clutch hub and sprocket....I may be able to say for sure which mainshaft you do have after seeing the space between the two...

On the early mainshaft...the taper is almost right up on the end of the 4th gear....The 65-69 will have about a 1/4 inch of shaft showing..
70- up chain drive will see about 3/4 of an inch.

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