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Tin Primary W/ Belt Drive

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Richard D

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Discussion Starter • #1 •
I want to run tin inner and outer primaries with a belt inside to eliminate oil leaks. Can anyone recommend a belt/clutch setup, and where to get it?
 
fatass

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#3 •
On my shovel, I've got a karata 1.25" x 11mm belt drive and a stocko Paughco cone motor inner primary. Make sure you get a clutch basket without the starter ring chingi, or you'll have rubbing "issues".

I just noticed your pic...is this for an Ironhead?
 
L

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#5 •
I agree with dragstew recommendation for primary belt. Any repop tin will be fine. A friend of mine made swiss cheese (i.e speed holes) out of his inner to allow some heat to escape and kept his outer stock to retain the original look.
 
D

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#6 • (Edited)
ljo73 said:
Any repop tin will be fine. A friend of mine made swiss cheese (i.e speed holes) out of his inner to allow some heat to escape and kept his outer stock to retain the original look.
Click to expand...
Not 100% sure....But the Tins from Paughco may be the only game in town..



This is their inner and outer on my 52.
I got it from them raw un-plated so I could weld up a spring tab for the Speed-E, then had a shop chrome it.

With the tranny hole cutout being very open, Should not be a need to drill air holes for keeping the belt running cool...

On the 52's inner did a few louvers to aid cooling an oil cooler..



Also in the above photo shows a reinforcement ring bolted to the inner to motor..
Would be wise to run this....Adds alot of beef to help support the covers.

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Richard D

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Discussion Starter • #7 •
For a stock '55 Pan. 4 speed ratchet top. I was looking at Paughco's outer primary covers; one with compensater sprocket, one without. Which will I need? Does year of transmission play into primary cover choice?
 
D

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#9 •
Richard D said:
For a stock '55 Pan. 4 speed ratchet top. I was looking at Paughco's outer primary covers; one with compensater sprocket, one without. Which will I need? Does year of transmission play into primary cover choice?
Click to expand...
If your planing to keep the compensator sprocket going on....
You have No Choice but to run the 55 up outer...

You can get a conversion motor sprocket to go solid like the 54 and back were....And run the 54 and back outer.....Be the way to go...The early covers IMO look much better...

Those sprockets are available from 22T to 25T "aftermarket"...

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Richard D

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Discussion Starter • #10 •
Sprocket size reccomendations? I’ll be mostly riding around town, just cruising, with a 5.10x16 rear tire. What about the clutch, are there variables, or just take what comes with the drive kit(I’m assuming they have a special clutch).
 
D

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#11 •
Richard D said:
Sprocket size reccomendations? I'll be mostly riding around town, just cruising, with a 5.10x16 rear tire. What about the clutch, are there variables, or just take what comes with the drive kit(I'm assuming they have a special clutch).
Click to expand...
Stock should be a 24T...If your happy with what is there now...Stay with it.
No Clutch comes with the belt kit...Run what you have, it will fit the new clutch basket, same as stock in the working dimensions ...
Can up-grade to an aftermarket clutch (There are many to choose from) if you see the need to do so..

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D

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#14 • (Edited)
...........:cool:...........

(1) You need to get a Belt Drive from one of the Boys that makes them. (55-64)
(2) The 55-64 inner & 54 and back outer covers.
(3) A clutch from one of them also.....I like the Barnett Scorpion, reason for is the dialable spring set-up they have going on and the hub rides on a double row sealed bearing.

Stock would be the low dollar way of getting there..and there is many up-grade that you can do to stock to make them work alot better.

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Larry T

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#19 • (Edited)
Paughco (probably everyone else too) makes a diamond primary that works with a compensator sprocket, but you won't need it with a belt.

While I'm here, sometimes the 8 mm belt setups don't fit exactly like I like them. Seems like the belt is "almost" to short to get the adjustment right and the transmission hits the downtube while the belt is still fiddlestring tight, even with a bullseye belt.
 
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