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Knurl the ends going into the clamp.
Later when you are sure of were you like them mark them to the clamp slot. Then drill the inside ends and install spring pins. Use 1 1/2'' long ones. Leave the ends to the fronts flush, and let the rear ends run long so they will be in the slot of the clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
thats a nice idea. i just got to make sure the internal throttle cables and
wiring finds its way around the pins.

i got two internal spirals to use them like on my flattie, roght side throttle,

left side controls the magneto.

the handle bars already have knurled spots, so i just have to cut them in half
and machine a slot at the ends for the cables to exit.

i took at look at part #33 again, after reading rhysmorts thread again.
it definitely has some marks on it from hitting the kicker gear.



i'll just smooth it out a little with a file, i think. the new kicker gear has only 14 teeth instead of 16, so it should act different anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
finally i found the time to continue working on the shovel.

i wanted to put the new clutch and belt drive together, but

when i tried to seat the hub onto the main shaft i kept failing.
i could not manage to get the hub and key to sit right on the cone.

i know that sometimes the keys can be quite nerve wrecking,
but i got suspicious and took the old hub from the shelf to compare
it to the new one, and voilà





so i had to grind the new key down to make it fit the aftermarket hub.

the rest was pretty straight forward, fortunately.







i guess i will have to take it apart again to grind and bash the inner tin primary to stop the belt from rubbing, but at least now i know things fit together.
the inner primary is now attached to the frame with a little tab i welded on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
finally put some covers over those pushrods.
pre-adjusted the magneto.

this thing should now start as soon as it gets oil,
fuel and spark plug wires...and a carb... and some other stuff...
or at least i hope it will.



didn't get too much done, new kickershaft bushing,
shaft and sprocket are in, some other small stuff
that i didn't care to take pictures of. work is in the way.

what i did is fool around with a golden paint marker









who knows, maybe i'll just leave it like this :D we'll see.
 

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I missed seeing your flame experiments before. Nice! You've got a good hand/eye. (I always took forever to lay out flames; they gave me fits.)

The pipes are swell, too. The crossover confuses me though: does the hind pipe really siamese, or is one side a dummy just for appearance's sake?
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
it's kind of a stupid system, and i, too, don't understand why they did it,
but the rear pipe splits into the crossover and is open to both ports.
i was told it is a "police special", but i really don't know about that.
yes, there is a tab. so, if you say it's factory E Glide duals, than that's what it will be!




i like it because it gives the bike a little more balance in my eyes,
and the left side gets more interesting with it. it also adds lenght,
optically. maybe i should paint the shocks, though...
 

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You: "[M]aybe i should paint the shocks, though... "

Are you planning to paint the oil tank? I think that if you do that, the chromed shocks will look fine (if not better than fine). I've always really liked those big simple Deco shock shrouds; it seems kind of a shame to deemphasize them.

On the other hand, yeah, I realize they'll rhyme with the black tin on the front end if you paint them. But even so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
maybe i'll just fog them with a rattle can first and see what's happening...
the oil tank is so beautifully rusted over on the left side that i am tempted
to just leave it as it is. but there are bigger fish to fry first :p
the whole rear section, for example, and the seat bench. :rolleyes:
 
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