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for a start , i am not an magneto specialist . but looking at the picture (and some i googled) perhaps the orientation of the magneto shaft might be misaligned or one of the worm gears are out of dimensions. for sure it is al about the relations between those 2 gears...to me it looks like the magneto worm grips more on the tip of the crank worm instead of the middle so you can give it a try with a double gasket ..just for the feel if it loosens up. in my opinion relocating the magneto shaft a bit or make a dedicated gasket is easier than adjusting the gear ( or someone can putt you on track of a different size gear ).

the sketch is as seen from the top if you stand on your primary side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
i also think that might be the problem. it also matches what Tulipultti said about his friend and what he had to do.
the shovel will come back to my shop soon, probably thursday.
i think i will put a dyna s ignition in it and then try my luck with the SU carb again.
if i get it running that way i will register it and make some shake down runs in the summer, hopefully.
there is a spare cam here somewhere so i can mock up the Burghardt drive on the work bench and see what that tells me.

by the way, my oil pressure seems pretty low somehow. the warning light does not shut off properly.
the gauge down by the S&S oilpump reads 20psi at idle when cold, 40psi when reving it.
as soon as the filter and oil tank start to turn warmup (so the plumbing i correct, that tells me) the pressure falls to almost 0psi at idle...
i put 20W50 in it, like i run in almost all my engines.
what do you guys think?
 

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The Burkhardt magneto cover kit has a major problem with the drive gear they supply, IT IS SHIT !! Typical V-Twin Mfg garbage,... they are far too oversized & MUST be replaced with one of Dave's at MORRIS MAGNETO, His are correct & fit, mine bound & sheard the pin on the drive gear on the Magneto base,
also, the BURKHARDT drive hasnt got a thrust washer between the gear and the outer tube , the thrust washer I salvaged from a 45 timer & I also used the 45 timer drive gear instead of the one that Tiawan Ted sends with the kit.
also one MAJOR thing to check is on the cross drilled oil galery, their casting is wrong & when drilled the hole breaks through into the cam chest & dumps all your oil there & the crank doesnt get any oil feed,
this is mine with the hole that I had to get welded up,...from what I have seen in some pics in adverts for the kit this hole seems to be factory welded but I guess mine being early production they didnt know or care if it was machined or cast correctly. I could have done serious damage had I run it for more than a few seconds, but as there was no oil pressure I took it apart to see why & found the hole, .....another reason why NOT to but any of the shit V_Twin & ted makes,
I must have spent a couple of days on the lathe & welder getting it fit to use, otherwise the castings prettu good, just dont use their gears, make sure theres no blow hole like on mine & fit a thrust washer between the mag drive & the drive shaft bush or the helical forces push the gear up into the bush & acts like a milling machine leaving brass swarf in the chamber the gears mate in the nose cone. .
if I had known at the time that Ted made them I wouldnt have bought it but it's sorted now & all works well
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Discussion Starter · #189 · (Edited)
now THAT is the kind of info i need.
i think i know that bike from somewhere, tzienlee...;) why didn't you tell me earlier?
as soon as i have the parts back at my shop i will take a look. i think i might have seen a welded spot in there, but i'm not sure.
having no or low oil pressure sounds awfully familiar now, i hope i haven't destroyed anything yet. oh boy.
the one up top can be the first one they sent me, i had to send it back because the holes for the dowel pins didn't line up on that one.
the second one seemed fine.
i do not know any of the folks you are referring to, but i have heard bad things about the setup over and over now. too late, i have it now,
and i will make it work somehow. there is a brass washer atop of the drive gear on the magneto shaft on mine, but you say i should use a different one?
there is a box of old timing gear parts from my blown up old 45 engine on the shelf somewhere, maybe i can find it.

edit: i can only find the gear for the magneto drive shaft at Morris' shop. which one did you use for the cam side?
 

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I spoke to Dave at MORRIS about the cam gear & he had them in stock so I ordered one & I used the 45 timer gear on the mag shaft,
the brass washer isnt a washer, but a top hat bush,
as stock, harley fitted a hard steel thrust washer between the gear & the bush as the helical gear tends to push the magneto shaft upwards, & it acted like a milling tool & cut into the brass as it didnt have a thrust washer from V-Twin,... that I caught before it ran and had to make a new bush & use a the 45 thrust washer as from kicking it over there was a LOT of brass swarf in the cover where the two gears mate.
the mag shaft might have been driven upwards because all the gear interphase was too tight, with good gears it wouldnt do it but I'm not sure,
I was going to use the timer/magneto cam drive gear I took of an old set of Sportster cams, as the outside diameter is spot on, but unfortunatly the inner diameter that actually goes onto the cam is too big so I got the MORRIS gear.
I think I must have got my Burkheart nose cone about 7-8 years ago so might have been an early one where the casting fault hadnt been discovered but instead of re casting with thick enough metal that the drilling didn't break through they seem to have just welded up the fault on those needing it,....
as said, had I known that V-Twin Mfg made them I'd have saved up & got the whole set up from Morris..
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
here's the Burghardt cone in detail.
it appears the second one they sent me was a later unit with the break through welded shut





here's the mag drive itsself. if i see correctly it already started milling the rim of the lower bushing.





the mag drive slides into the cone effortlessly when lying on the bench without the cam and cam drive gear in it.
that was not possible when mounted on the bike, it took a good deal of force to get it in there, so that was because the gear mesh was bad
and put pressure on the cam and the drive.
you can even see where the cam was pushed down into the bushing.







lastly, the cam drive gear. the lock pin was sheared off and the center screw was wedged so tight i immediately ruined the allen head (suuuuuper soft, really bad steel quality)
and had to spotweld it in order to apply a pair of vice grips and get it out of there... and look at the teeth, they already show pretty bad wear marks and small parts broke out...



 

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horrible quality for that amount of money , best to get your hands on some proper gears and figure out the alignment some day ( after the summer), something is just a bit off size , don't get beaten by a piece of aluminiumguss
 

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The quality of those parts is dogshit, as previously mentiond by our esteemed pal who's been through it all with his. Lash is clearly off too.. I have no doubt if you can get hold of some good quality parts it'll be perfect.
 

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I gotta say, that with a Harley worm gear, a thrust washer & one of Daves Cam drive gears, it works great & the rest of the casting & fittment was good,
just the 2 or 3 important parts plus the welding of the hole ust isn't good,
they should have added more meat in the area of the brake through, instead of welding,
in theory the weld could be restricting the diameter of the underlying oil galery thus restricting oil to the crank !!!,
when i did mine, I drilled the blanking out, & ran a brass rod up the galery so the weld didn't close the hole.......
I DOUBT that V-Twin did that when they welded them up !!
 
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