Crazy question, my 48 flathead has a straight leg frame which I know isn't correct. The question is how do i know what year it is in fact? Numbers indicate early 40's but the tube where a pogo seat would go is cut down the center making it half round for 10 inches or so. I've never seen another like it. Any clue?
Straight leg frames
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I'm a dumbshit; this post has been edited to remove incorrect info.
Andy is right, but if a picture is worth a thousand words, then a hundred thousand words are worth $124.65, which is what a Palmer restoration book costs.
I'd be willing to bet that cut tube you mention was to fit a Panhead motor into an early frame.
Andy is right, but if a picture is worth a thousand words, then a hundred thousand words are worth $124.65, which is what a Palmer restoration book costs.
I'd be willing to bet that cut tube you mention was to fit a Panhead motor into an early frame.
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Your seat post tube was most likely clearanced for an OHV motor which leads me to believe it is a knucklehead frame. For a pan one would need to clearance the top tube also. And Andy HD48FL is right if it has a key lock bung it would definitively be a pan frame.
I had a severe brain malfunction this morning when I posted. Post has been edited to remove incorrect info.
Your pics aren't so easy to see, at least for my eyeballs. If you check out page 45 of the second volume of the third edition of the Palmer book, you'll find a super-helpful table to help you find areas to check on your frame to date it.
In general, the more electric welding you see, the newer the frame is. Your right sidecar loop casting number narrows it down to Knuckle-era, but no more than that without a die number, I don't think.
Your pics aren't so easy to see, at least for my eyeballs. If you check out page 45 of the second volume of the third edition of the Palmer book, you'll find a super-helpful table to help you find areas to check on your frame to date it.
In general, the more electric welding you see, the newer the frame is. Your right sidecar loop casting number narrows it down to Knuckle-era, but no more than that without a die number, I don't think.
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It's definitely a knuckle frame. You can identify your frame year by the numbers on the left and right axle plates, and the neck. The neck will have a forging number XE-35, and a number from 2 to 9. Right axle plate has a forging number XE-6 ( left is XE-7 ) and a number.
Frames this old can be pieced together at this point, and as you mentioned, it's been chopped at some point.
An original Knucklehead rear motor mount/front transmission mount casting has XE 624 for a casting number, but the size of the casting number is much larger than the Panhead era version of this casting.
An original Knucklehead rear motor mount/front transmission mount casting has XE 624 for a casting number, but the size of the casting number is much larger than the Panhead era version of this casting.
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A clearanced knuckle frame is a very desirable item for a traditional chopper. Instead of fucking it up by restoring back to stock one should find a stylish individual who cherishes custom culture.
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Late 1939 or 40 frame. Worth good money to a restorer if you wanted a frame to match your motor year. 25 degree rake. If it's a 1940 frame, the underside of the backbone will be pressed flat where the rear upper rails meet the backbone (this was to provide clearance for the 74" motors which started in 1941).
Wisdom speaks.
As the others have said, the more casting numbers you can uncover, the better you can figure out what happened. Again... a Palmer book is tailor-made for this sort of thing.
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