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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Unlike big twins, sporty's do not seem to have very detailed timing marks. I have a '95 and I am guessing that the single dot indicates 30 drg BTDC? Is there a mark for TDC? and to verify the timing on the rear cylinder I would guess to pull the ingnition, mount a timing wheel and mark the flywheel at 75 BTDC at the front cylinder?
 

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single dot is 35 degrees btdc(domestic timing) double dot is 20 degrees btdc (international timing) line is top dead center front cylinder. All 96 and later ignition modules are timed at 20degrees. If you are using stock ignition you do not need to verify rear cylinder timing. Timing is all set to front cylinder.
 

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^Acccurate information^ However most, if not all aftermarket ignition systems generally use 35*BTDC as their 'home' timing mark. When using one of these systems setting up the static timing is usually sufficient for proper combustion. TK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info. Its got a Daytona Twin Tec ignition and according to their instructions, they static time off of TDC. Once static timed I'd like to verify that the front and rear are hitting at the same mark from their respective TDC.
With the current state of tune, or lack-there-of, I am trying to get everything back to a common starting point which means to me checking everything- timing at the front and rear cylinders, compression, cam timing, blah, blah.
The rear is actually my concern as it seems very weak and there is no carbon build up in the port. And, whether or not related, the bike also has some pretty bad reversion and likes throwing fuel out the wrong way.
 

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Thanks for the info. Its got a Daytona Twin Tec ignition and according to their instructions, they static time off of TDC. Once static timed I'd like to verify that the front and rear are hitting at the same mark from their respective TDC.
With the current state of tune, or lack-there-of, I am trying to get everything back to a common starting point which means to me checking everything- timing at the front and rear cylinders, compression, cam timing, blah, blah.
The rear is actually my concern as it seems very weak and there is no carbon build up in the port. And, whether or not related, the bike also has some pretty bad reversion and likes throwing fuel out the wrong way.
top dead center on the compression stroke of the front cylinder. If you time it a TDC overlap stroke it will not run
 

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I am installing a new fire ball hi-4 ignition from crane cams onto my 2002 xl1200c. i am having a problem. I aligned the timing mark in the window (the TDC line) turned on the ignition, loosened the mounting screws, and proceeded to turn the module clock wise till the led light turned off. The problem is the light never turned off. i went full left and right and got nothing the light stays on. The bike starts but is running on the front cylinder only. I know this because it is only blowing cold air out of the rear exhaust while the front one is blowing hot air. What am i doing wrong?
 

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I have had trouble getting static lights to turn off as well try cycling the igniton. Dragstews is right of course...must be on compression stroke. Take a plug out and feel for air being pushed out, front cylinder.
 

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The rear plug fires when when it is out of the bike. I pulled it out of the cylinder and grounded it against the cylinder and cranked the bike and it sparks. But when the bike is running it just blows cold air out the pipe, I can grab and hold the pipe and it never gets warm. Only on the rear cylinder.
 
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