Jockey Journal Forum banner

Sparx Reg/Rec Battery elim, Question ( Headlight Killing Engine)

3831 Views 25 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Jbonesy
Hey Guys,

I just rewired my 73 triumph t140 and installed the Sparx Reg/Rec Battery Eliminator. The bike starts well and seems to be running fine until I switch on the headlight, if I am not about 2500 rpm the bike dies. Its seems that it could be my stator not giving appropriate charge, but I dont have a meter to check it. Just as a question, is this most likely the cause? is there any other reasons this could be happening? seems straight forward, because if my stator was healthy i t would be able to handle the load right? I am running a halogen 55/60 bulb.

My second question is where I can buy a sparx stator (or a better one to suggest? ) just by itself, I can only seem to find the packages which are around 300 bucks, but i already have the Rec/Reg so I just need the stator. Anywhere online? or anyone have one to sell?

Thanks in advance for the help on this!
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Sounds like your stator isn't healthy, sells what you need, may want to get a new rotor too if you have an extra $90 lying around.
Re-check all wiring grounds conections then go buy stator +1 on the SPARX mine has done me fine.
Right on, I am going to test the magnetic strength of my rotor then possibly get a new one in time.. Gotta love lowbrow for having everything you could ever need at a pretty good price.

Thanks guys!
Get a high wattage generator stator or a lower wattage bulb. The std rotor and stator cannot handle the 55/60 bulb.
What is a good wattage to go for, as they are a little bit hard to find up here ( canada) like a 40/45?
get a new rotor (magnet wheel) and that will do it 90% of the time.
there may be a date stamp on your rotor and it is likely XX73, that means they are 40 year old weak ass magnets.
So i should pop the rotor off and test the strength of the magnet, and that could do? even with the old original stator?
if you don't have an actual Gauss meter that measures magnetism it's a waste of time.
Every 40 year old rotor I ever did the "screwdriver test" on said it was brand new, but you put a new rotor in there and it works great.
Buy a new rotor if that doesn't cure it (and it will) then you can buy a stator and you are no further out on the "kit" price.
But a stator has no moving parts and unless it broken wire or has been burned by the rotor rubbing on it then they seldom ever go bad.
Magnets go weak with time.
You didn't ever say if it works fine when you patch a battery in to the system.
Thanks Tony,

I think thats what I will do, does it not matter that its a lower output that the new ones? im hoping to be battery less for good, so i wanna make sure im all good to go. Thanks for the insight, really appreciate it, @beverbikes yes it works fine with the battery in.
First thing I would do is go buy a meter to test your systems output. Meters are so cheap now there is no excuse for not having one - under $10 but that's only my opinion.

some no battery bikes stall when you turn on the headlights at idle, often times you need to give it a quick rev when you turn the switch on, it's all about the shock of 100 watts of instant power demand, we always wire up "no Battery" bikes as negative ground systems and use an LED taillight so it cuts down on the 35 watts of taillight power demand,
Try this before you go spending the money for a new rotor, if it won't idle with the lights on then you need a new rotor.
I seldom ride in the dark so often use 35 watt Halogen headlight bulbs from a scooter place. That helps a lot and still real bright.
Is there any real way to check if its the Stator or the Rotor that is the problem? I now have a meter, if I test across the rotor will that tell me anything? what omhs should i be looking for?
Is there any real way to check if its the Stator or the Rotor that is the problem? I now have a meter, if I test across the rotor will that tell me anything? what omhs should i be looking for?
the stator should test "open" from each wire to ground, and from wire to wire it should be a very high ohm reading, here is a link to the test procedures..

there is no real accurate test for the rotor unless you know someone with a Gauss meter because all it is 6 magnets cast into lead.
vibration and heat degauss magnets so over time they lose out , also AC can degauss and thats the same stuff its generating.
stator coil can only fail from short or insulation break down of wire coating /encapsulation ,if its single phase theres 2 readings ... ohms reading = good . no reading (open) = stuffed .
any measure between wire and ground = short ...insulation problem.
Tony, Lead? Sure it isn't Aluminum? Jack
could be, I guessed lead because it's heavy as hell.
Question, do you think that this really could work for testing the rotor?

Also, If I buy a wassell 200watt stator for the time being, even if my rotor is weak will i still see some improvement? I just dont have the extra 90 kicking around this month..
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.