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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Thanks ratso, I've heard that long bike story from multiple customers when they have visited at the shop. Quite many of them also says that this one looks good as it's not too long, but long enough. And then there's always someone saying that under +24" forks aren't even choppers...

I couldn't make it to the show, there was too many unfinished parts and I found out that the stress and hurry wasn't my cup of tea. I tried but slept so bad during the week that I don't want to do it again. Got it rolling and tried to take some pictures off the lift:







So this is the state of this one for now, the plan is to take it slow in the future too.
 

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I promised some talk about the engine and trans work, but I realized there isn't much photos of those but at least some story for both.

So the engine was running and transmission worked ok when I bought this bike but a little cloud was following me and I kept smelling the burned oil, so I took the heads off.





The rear head gasket had blown because of loose head bolt, also measured the cylinders and they weren't round enough so I had to get them bored. The pistons were still good, .040 over size older S&S stock bore stroker pistons and it was hard to find suitable cheap pistons or small enough cylinders (also cheap as I don't have much money). Got some good deal of .070 pistons and took the cylinders bored for those. Found some heat resistant paint that "looks like" cast iron, seen so many black cylinders that I wanted something different. Painted the lifter blocks and alternator rotor with it too, it looks good and I might use it for other parts too. I checked the oil pump too, it looked to be good so replaced the checkballs, keys and seals. Before I took the engine out of frame I tought the pump was stock, but it was some older S&S unit and I was quite happy when I found out it was in good shape.







There was also cracked exhaust valve guide in the rear head, some harsh edge in both intake ports and some burn marks from failed head gasket. Also 90% of the rocker box stud threads was in need of repair as the studs were rising up from the head and front cylinder had 3 mm larger imtake valve than rear. The machine shop replaced the valve guide but left everything else as they were, so my part was to drill and tap all the rocker box stud holes, used 5/16 UNC helicoils to use basic bolts instead of studs. They might not be great update, but when they fail there is still material for 3/8 UNC helicoils for the studs. I'm planning to be rich (er) in the future, so the heads will be the first update when I have some money to get S&S or similar heads with dual plugs that will get ported to match some cam. I'll be using an old Andrews A cam for now, as it came installed in this engine. I left the mismatched valves and didn't even smooth out the intake ports/valve seats as it has worked like that earlier. Front rocker box has had some quality time with fatbobs, so once again I got the file in my hand and smoothed out both rockerboxes to match eachother.



So the engine specs are 4⅝" stroke, stock 74 cylinders .070" oversize, compression around 9.5:1 and Andrews A cam. I calculated that makes total of 88" cubic inches of raw Shovelhead POWER :D
Solid lifters, Ultima singlefire ignition and Super B carb might make my life easy enough.



The transmission was otherwise good, but it had Redline Heavy Shockoroof inside so I desided to put new bearings and check everything so I don't have to do it on the road. Found out the oil plug threads were trash so made new (M14x1.5 or something) thread as I happened to have some leftover plug in that size laying around at work. Someone had been inside the gearbox before (not suprised) as it is otherwise stock, but countershaft bearings were caged, and that was nice update too. All the gears were good, replaced the kicker gears and got 4th gear properly installed with right size needles and Jims bushing. It was the right time to do this rebuild, as the 4th gear bushing was burned but the mainshaft was in good condition.





After washing i had to get the parts dry, so I grilled them :D



Didn't have any photos of my tranny before washing it, but here is one cowpie before I rebuilt it last year, maybe you can see why I don't like that Redline Heavy Shockproof.

I promised some talk about the engine and trans work, but I realized there isn't much photos of those but at least some story for both.

So the engine was running and transmission worked ok when I bought this bike but a little cloud was following me and I kept smelling the burned oil, so I took the heads off.





The rear head gasket had blown because of loose head bolt, also measured the cylinders and they weren't round enough so I had to get them bored. The pistons were still good, .040 over size older S&S stock bore stroker pistons and it was hard to find suitable cheap pistons or small enough cylinders (also cheap as I don't have much money). Got some good deal of .070 pistons and took the cylinders bored for those. Found some heat resistant paint that "looks like" cast iron, seen so many black cylinders that I wanted something different. Painted the lifter blocks and alternator rotor with it too, it looks good and I might use it for other parts too. I checked the oil pump too, it looked to be good so replaced the checkballs, keys and seals. Before I took the engine out of frame I tought the pump was stock, but it was some older S&S unit and I was quite happy when I found out it was in good shape.







There was also cracked exhaust valve guide in the rear head, some harsh edge in both intake ports and some burn marks from failed head gasket. Also 90% of the rocker box stud threads was in need of repair as the studs were rising up from the head and front cylinder had 3 mm larger imtake valve than rear. The machine shop replaced the valve guide but left everything else as they were, so my part was to drill and tap all the rocker box stud holes, used 5/16 UNC helicoils to use basic bolts instead of studs. They might not be great update, but when they fail there is still material for 3/8 UNC helicoils for the studs. I'm planning to be rich (er) in the future, so the heads will be the first update when I have some money to get S&S or similar heads with dual plugs that will get ported to match some cam. I'll be using an old Andrews A cam for now, as it came installed in this engine. I left the mismatched valves and didn't even smooth out the intake ports/valve seats as it has worked like that earlier. Front rocker box has had some quality time with fatbobs, so once again I got the file in my hand and smoothed out both rockerboxes to match eachother.



So the engine specs are 4⅝" stroke, stock 74 cylinders .070" oversize, compression around 9.5:1 and Andrews A cam. I calculated that makes total of 88" cubic inches of raw Shovelhead POWER :D
Solid lifters, Ultima singlefire ignition and Super B carb might make my life easy enough.



The transmission was otherwise good, but it had Redline Heavy Shockoroof inside so I desided to put new bearings and check everything so I don't have to do it on the road. Found out the oil plug threads were trash so made new (M14x1.5 or something) thread as I happened to have some leftover plug in that size laying around at work. Someone had been inside the gearbox before (not suprised) as it is otherwise stock, but countershaft bearings were caged, and that was nice update too. All the gears were good, replaced the kicker gears and got 4th gear properly installed with right size needles and Jims bushing. It was the right time to do this rebuild, as the 4th gear bushing was burned but the mainshaft was in good condition.





After washing i had to get the parts dry, so I grilled them :D



Didn't have any photos of my tranny before washing it, but here is one cowpie before I rebuilt it last year, maybe you can see why I don't like that Redline Heavy Shockproof.

9.5 comp wont work with A cam. 8.5 max
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Did you use TRW 2900 pistons as the come in at 9.1 on 4 3/4 stroke
I remember the pistons are 2800 series and thought that they are 9.4:1 on 4 ⅝ stroke. With milled heads I assume the compression is close to 9.5 (didn't measure the heads as they won't be there forever).

Where did you found that 8.5 comp is max for A grind cam? All I found was someone mentioning A needs more compression. I'm not saying the cam would be anywhere near optimal, but it worked without pinging with the old pistons, so I hope it still works.
 

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Ok i ran a 4 1/2 2800 and had detonation i used 2 base gaskets at .031 to help twin plug heads. Now we better ignition ( no mech advance) and Voes. I am trying the S&S 514 lift that has A specs with more lift on my new build
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Has anyone ever re-riveted any clutch bell and how did it turn out? I drilled the rivets out ages ago as they were loose, and now would be the time to reassemble the clutch. Just hard to find suitable rivets, also been thinking of using counter sunk bolts and making threads to the bell, but only if I can't find the rivets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Ok i ran a 4 1/2 2800 and had detonation i used 2 base gaskets at .031 to help twin plug heads. Now we better ignition ( no mech advance) and Voes. I am trying the S&S 514 lift that has A specs with more lift on my new build
I'm also going to run voes, the old setup didn't have it but I think its better to be in use.
 

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I run Dyna 2Ki ignition on a few bikes I've built in the last several years. I turn VOES option off on the dip switches now. I did run it the first time I tried this ignition and didn't see any real difference between on and off. I consider the hose from the manifold to the switch to be a potential source of intake leaks, seen it happen once already. Just my $.02 FWIW, YMMV. :D
 
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