Jockey Journal Forum banner
41 - 60 of 69 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Thanks!

I tested the continuity of the stator today and it seems to be fine, maybe most of the charging problems I've had are from bad connection between stator and regulator (or cheap small batteries).

So I soldered ring connectors to the wires and tightened them to m5 brass bolt. Made insulation with plastic hose, nylon washers and a few different size shrink tubing. Left the hoses a bit longer than the hole in the block, so the hose expands a little when tightening a nut against it. Hard to explain, hope someone understands what I'm talking about. Now I have brass screw terminals in the engine that needs to be shortened to length and it's good to go. The regulator only needs new connectors and it is ready for assembly. Almost forgot the pick:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,365 Posts
You should do something to cover those screws to keep them dry and were they can't be touched as there will be 18 or 24acV per 1000 rpm. That could bite you good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
The clutch pedal covers that quite good, I don't believe that strikes any sparks in normal conditions. If there is any problems i might put some rubber over these, like starter cable insulators.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Is there any space where the brass bolts pass through the case that might let oil out or water in? The silicone would help with that.
I left the hoses long enough that they expanded when torqued and water won't get in. After taking the pictures I added another pair of nylon washers with a bit bigger hole but but they're also thicker so they hold up better.

And with 1.5" open belt primary I don't even care if something goes in or out, it won't hurt any parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
I promised some talk about the engine and trans work, but I realized there isn't much photos of those but at least some story for both.

So the engine was running and transmission worked ok when I bought this bike but a little cloud was following me and I kept smelling the burned oil, so I took the heads off.





The rear head gasket had blown because of loose head bolt, also measured the cylinders and they weren't round enough so I had to get them bored. The pistons were still good, .040 over size older S&S stock bore stroker pistons and it was hard to find suitable cheap pistons or small enough cylinders (also cheap as I don't have much money). Got some good deal of .070 pistons and took the cylinders bored for those. Found some heat resistant paint that "looks like" cast iron, seen so many black cylinders that I wanted something different. Painted the lifter blocks and alternator rotor with it too, it looks good and I might use it for other parts too. I checked the oil pump too, it looked to be good so replaced the checkballs, keys and seals. Before I took the engine out of frame I tought the pump was stock, but it was some older S&S unit and I was quite happy when I found out it was in good shape.







There was also cracked exhaust valve guide in the rear head, some harsh edge in both intake ports and some burn marks from failed head gasket. Also 90% of the rocker box stud threads was in need of repair as the studs were rising up from the head and front cylinder had 3 mm larger imtake valve than rear. The machine shop replaced the valve guide but left everything else as they were, so my part was to drill and tap all the rocker box stud holes, used 5/16 UNC helicoils to use basic bolts instead of studs. They might not be great update, but when they fail there is still material for 3/8 UNC helicoils for the studs. I'm planning to be rich (er) in the future, so the heads will be the first update when I have some money to get S&S or similar heads with dual plugs that will get ported to match some cam. I'll be using an old Andrews A cam for now, as it came installed in this engine. I left the mismatched valves and didn't even smooth out the intake ports/valve seats as it has worked like that earlier. Front rocker box has had some quality time with fatbobs, so once again I got the file in my hand and smoothed out both rockerboxes to match eachother.



So the engine specs are 4⅝" stroke, stock 74 cylinders .070" oversize, compression around 9.5:1 and Andrews A cam. I calculated that makes total of 88" cubic inches of raw Shovelhead POWER :D
Solid lifters, Ultima singlefire ignition and Super B carb might make my life easy enough.



The transmission was otherwise good, but it had Redline Heavy Shockoroof inside so I desided to put new bearings and check everything so I don't have to do it on the road. Found out the oil plug threads were trash so made new (M14x1.5 or something) thread as I happened to have some leftover plug in that size laying around at work. Someone had been inside the gearbox before (not suprised) as it is otherwise stock, but countershaft bearings were caged, and that was nice update too. All the gears were good, replaced the kicker gears and got 4th gear properly installed with right size needles and Jims bushing. It was the right time to do this rebuild, as the 4th gear bushing was burned but the mainshaft was in good condition.





After washing i had to get the parts dry, so I grilled them :D



Didn't have any photos of my tranny before washing it, but here is one cowpie before I rebuilt it last year, maybe you can see why I don't like that Redline Heavy Shockproof.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,041 Posts
Uhhh ... Does that brand/weight emulsify more readily than your preferred oil? Sorry if that's a moronic question, but we can't all be non-morons.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
That molybdene stuff makes it look nasty, it just clogs everything. I don't recommend using that anywhere, maybe some racing applications that get oil change almost daily would benefit that kind of oil. I think I'll put Bel-Ray transmission oil in this time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Found some old photos of this project and one of my favourite customer bike, the guy bought that sportster and I've done some small maintenance to it, changing tires, clutch cable etc. The week always gets better when I got a chance to get my hands greasy with something like that at work. And the test drive after its done



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Got the tins back and I had to start putting them in place just to prevent skratches from laying around. The color looks nice and it works great with black and grey (they rarely fail). I'm trying to get this bike ready for show next weekend, probably without brakes or oil, but there's still snow and freezing nights so it'd be trailer queen anyways.

















 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
I left the hoses long enough that they expanded when torqued and water won't get in. After taking the pictures I added another pair of nylon washers with a bit bigger hole but but they're also thicker so they hold up better.

And with 1.5" open belt primary I don't even care if something goes in or out, it won't hurt any parts.

what about these?
Synthetic rubber Font Automotive tire Technology Automotive design
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Those might be the solution if there's some problems. Haven't heard any problems with DC generators so tought this wouldn't have anything like that either, but these are closer each other... Time will tell.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I lost the headlamp mount while the tins were at the painter, so I had to do new one. The old was aluminium and was a bit fragile so made the new from steel. Took the time and made it all by hand, well drilling was made with bench drill but file and saw were the main tools for this piece. Didn't want it to be too square, so I filed the center a bit higher and painted it with that gray cast look-a-like spray to get the look of an old casted part. Turned out to be cool little detail.







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,041 Posts
Looks real fine (I'd expect no less by this time). I sure like that fresh-cast-iron paint, too; every piece you used it on makes me look twice.

Numerous trash-science books claim that aliens from distant planets came to Earth long ago, looked around at us (squatting in our caves, eating our fleas, listlessly beating/humping each other), couldn't stand it, and gave us advanced technologies before they left to find more rewarding species. And that's how the Finlanders (and, to some degree, humans from the other Baltic states and Scandinavia) learned to build such fantastic long bikes.

I don't even like long bikes. I deplore them. But the stuff I've seen on the JJ -- much of it from the snowbound nations -- regularly forces me to change my mind. Just temporarily.
 
41 - 60 of 69 Posts
Top