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I don't know about measurements... Never use them.
Not even with a mousetrap.

I just push the lever, using the adjuster screw in te middle, as far out as it goes, then back it out 1 turn or a bit, enough so the release finger is not putting pressure on the bearing.

Then adjust the clutch cable so there's a bit of movement on the clutch lever.. Again so the bearing is not under pressure.

Nuts on the pressure plate... I tighten them up till kicking doesn't make it spin.
Go for a ride and adjust till operates nicely.
I am jealous of your way

My shop is almost entirely original pieces and the first series of flat side shovels with electric start - solid outer primary - dual exhaust crossing over said outer primary - and mouse traps - i cant do anything your way and if we dont hit it its another 2 1/2 hours to make another adjustment -

Some have the life
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Ok so I readjusted like said and got to thinking about it and pulled it all apart to remove the anti-rattlers. put together and adjusted. it was raining all day so I will have to wait to test it out
 

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Discussion Starter #23
one more thing, while I had the cover off I noticed my starter ring gear has some damage so I should replace it soon. Mine is a laminated gear made up of three layers of steel and looks like it id riveted to the drum. The new gears I find are one piece and have no holes for rivets are these weld on?
 

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I am jealous of your way

My shop is almost entirely original pieces and the first series of flat side shovels with electric start - solid outer primary - dual exhaust crossing over said outer primary - and mouse traps - i cant do anything your way and if we dont hit it its another 2 1/2 hours to make another adjustment -

Some have the life
oh I get what you mean!!!
funny we talked about this, because only last weekend I got my 68 genny back from my friend, as he had to store it in his garage while I worked on his bike at my place, and I had to do the whole clutch thing as I had put new plates in during the winter, fixed the primary etc but never got to adjust it.

Mine is a 68 with the dual cross overs....but! not a solid outer, I'm so lucky!!! and prefer it that way even if it's not as it should be. - what a stupid harley design, to adjust the clutch you have to get the outer out... and the floorboard...and the exhaust...

so I done my usual rough adjustment, a few more for the hand lever to be on bitting point halfway.... and then set off with the inspection cover off.
Accelerate... slips.. stop. one turn on the nuts (the clutch ones that is! haha)... ride again, feel it.. adjust here, no can't change gear, adjust there, yep can get neutral again, no its slipping now..... after 10min of riding up and down some roads with my spanners in my pocket it was perfect.
 

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We over drill the clutch discs to a W drill bit and use a ram jet retainer almost never is it not good to go home
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So I got out on the bike last night and it is a little better but not great. still hard to get neutral. Maybe I'll get it better after some more adjusting.
 

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Just my 2 cents.... My experience with Alto clutch plates is that they tend to drag, and that they chatter when you let the clutch out making the bike lurch . Not a fan of Alto's! I have removed them from many customers bike in the past, who were complaining of the clutch dragging and bike lurching and pulling while stopped at a traffic light. The police clutches are so called, as they were designed to with stand a lot of heat from slipping the clutch, as in police motorcades and parade duty. With them, and the combination of the steel plates with out the rattlers, is the best recipe I have found, and even maybe throw in a clutch tamer. As some others have already mentioned here, drilling out the holes in the plates a bit can't hurt either, and will make up for slightly bent studs.
 

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Another thing to check (and that gave me no end of issues until my lightbulb moment) is that the springs that hold the bearing retainer plate are completely flat and locked into their grooves. If one pops out you end up with spring pressure on the back side of the clutch pack which causes dragging when the clutch is disengaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
if you are talking about the springs that the "clutch tamer" gets rid of, I 'm running a clutch tamer so i don't have those springs anymore.
 

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Sometimes the clutch discs holes are small we use a W drill bit to open them up a bit and not enough to make them rattle
in 2020 we sold 200 sets at least of alto red clutch discs - out side of a shop like mine we spend 80 percent of the time - fixing what was installed incorrectly - both by other shops and owners - just take your time make sure every thing is in the right order of adjustment - everything moves freely including lubing the cable and the lever parts cable ball ends its all part of the job
 
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