[Highlander_V12]

Ok, I posted in the shovelhead pics thread of a 77 FXE I shagged last month. Somebody's been in it before and without a mega tear down I'm trying to sort thru it. Stock rocker arms are 1.43 ratio, yes? I'm guessing that's what's in it. I measured lift at the tappet and a nominal .300. I'll get some help so I know an exact number, but who knows the tappet lift of the stock cam? There were new clutch parts, has drags, an S&S Shorty E, and few other signs of an"...I used to love this bike." vibe. Thanks in advance.

 

[joe49]

.390 at valve / 1.43 = .272727...... at cam

 

[Highlander_V12]

I wondered if that was the real. Every spec is out there except lobe lift.

 

[Rick_Bee]

Every time I see that .390", I cringe.
In my mind that valve is only half way open......

 

[Highlander_V12]

So with an accurate measure at the lifter it goes up .325, and with a ratio of 1.43 it specs to .464 valve lift (odd lift measure when I see what's out there). I've made a guess that it's a .450 lift cam but as to who's I can't tell. No numbers, no markings without removing it. Here's a pic, and it does have a red paint mark on it but...?

I need to do just a wee bit of house cleaning it there but it looks fairly good. Found out it also has a DYNATEK Dyna S ign too. Somebody really liked this ol gal.

 

[WhizzbangK.C.]

Pluck it out of there and see what's on the other end. Don't loose the spacers, and put some rubber bands around the top of each pair of lifters to hold them up. It's easy to reset timing and put it back in.

 

[joe49]

Yep, inside end of cam is often marked.

 

[Highlander_V12]

If I'm reading the service manual right I can pull the cam and put it right back where it came from? Without pulling any more than the pushrods and raising the lifters (thanks whizzbang). At least I'll know cuz I'm not gonna change it.

 

[WhizzbangK.C.]

You should have removed the push rods before removing the cam cover. If you didn't the valve springs are pushing down on the cam with no outboard support, not a good thing as it can damage the inner cam bearing. You might find it hard to get the cover back on now, but you need to before you turn the engine over to get them out. Make sure you lift up on the cover and get it lined up with the top and bottom dowel pins before you push it in. Trying to pull it in with the bolts if the dowels are not lined up is asking for trouble in the form of stripped threads, deformed or cracked dowel pin holes, etc. (Don't ask how I know this.) Yes, you can just pull it out after removing the pushrods. Don't try to just put it back in the same position though. Read the manual and line up the timing marks. It's easy.

 

[WhizzbangK.C.]

Looking at the pics, it kinda looks like there might be some flaking on the lobes of that cam, or it might just be oil and reflections. Hard to tell in a picture, but inspect them carefully before you put it back together. Also, while you're in there, check the bearings in the tappet rollers. If they are failing but caught early, they are easy and cheap to replace. If they fail completely while running, it can be catastrophic.

 

[Highlander_V12]

Mystery solved.

So cam/gearcase cover. It was sorta dangling when I got it. It was still on the dowels and slipped out ok. I know what you mean about cam support and bushings.

 

[Highlander_V12]

Looks real good, like it went in last month..

 

[WhizzbangK.C.]

That's excellent! The Andrews A grind has been my favorite for street shovels for years. You can get more bottom end punch, or top end pull, but IMO nothing works better all around than the A.