Jockey Journal Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

Please bear with me as I'm new to working on old Harleys but hopefully someone out there can help me please? I have two problems really, one with the operation of the foot clutch and one with the setting up of the pedal.

I have a Shovelhead for which I've purchased a V-Twin manufactured Police style hand change and foot clutch. The problem I have encountered is that it comes with a clutch arm rod whereas originally it was cable operated and the rod wont line up or reach the clutch release arm.



I've since found out that as I have a cow-pie transmission top and electric start I cant fit an alternative clutch release arm in place of the standard clutch release arm as its asking too much of the arm to get around everything (I've explored the range of arms I believe but to no avail).

This is a pic of the longer arm but it fouls on the transmission top



As a solution I wondered about modifying the unit to retain a cable operated system therefore keeping the standard clutch release arm and adjuster and cutting the cable short and putting a solderless nipple on the end. Making up a bracket to hold the other end of the cable so that it would route as below through the old adjuster.



The foot clutch is a rocker style and as many will know when it passes over a certain point it kind of "locks on" enabling you to put your foot to the ground with the clutch engaged. If I adopt this approach does anyone know if there is likely to be enough travel for this still to work or whether I will in effect just end up with a suicide clutch in effect?

Second problem, on the rocker clutch assembly the large spring contracts and naturally this brings the pedal up to almost a vertical position (as below).



I understand that the pedal mechanism should operate pretty much horizontally (as below).



I've been advised that I should tighten the nut by the star washer which will increase resistance and hold the pedal in the horizontal position however when the nut is tightened enough to hold it in that position it's too tight for me to operate the pedal with my foot (as below). Hope this makes sense. Any ideas please?



Thanks in anticipation, Tone
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
First off, with the cowpie, you'll have to make your own arm. Cut off the end that goes on the clutch release shaft on the tranny, and make your own that clears everything. Rods are much better than cables. I usually thread the other end for a large heim joint and then the rod can go thru that, and make easy adjustments.

I think once you get the clutch release arm made, you'll see where the clutch rod goes and that will simplify your rocker clutch problem

Sixball
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Sixball

Thanks for taking the time out to reply. I feel I've got some definite direction now.

When you talk about threading the other end, do you mean the other end of the newly made arm? Also, a heim joint? I'm not familiar with this term, maybe we call it something different in the UK? Is that like the alternative to the forked/clevis pin end but with a kind of ball joint in it?

Thanks

Tone
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,047 Posts
You've got good advice above on the arm, so I'll tackle the clutch. The original foot clutches had a 2" or so stud that bolted on the backside of the rocker clutch in the lower hole. Correctly fitted, it restricts the travel in both directions and stops the rocker from hitting the floorboard, if so equiped. A stout bolt will serve the same function, just use two nuts and lockwashers, with the bolt head towards the engine. Rounding the bolt head wouldn't hurt either, it'll keep the wear on the bracket down a bit.

-Kuda
'49 panchop
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Tone
I have an '83 flhp
ex Philly police bike
with a HD footclutch /hand shift
it uses a rod
I will try to take pictures tonight.
I found this statement on an old HD forum

"Electric-start bikes need the special 1965-1978 police clutch release arm because there is no room for the earlier-style linkage,
what with the higher electric-start primaries."

my clutch arm does not look to have been modified
Jack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
Hi Sixball

Thanks for taking the time out to reply. I feel I've got some definite direction now.

When you talk about threading the other end, do you mean the other end of the newly made arm? Also, a heim joint? I'm not familiar with this term, maybe we call it something different in the UK? Is that like the alternative to the forked/clevis pin end but with a kind of ball joint in it?

Thanks

Tone
Yes, it's threaded with a pivoting ball (with a hole in it). Basically whats used on the ends of the newer shift linkages.

Sixball
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks everyone for your help and support. I've spoken to Fabkevin who states that there is apparently an HD manufactured arm. It sounds like the arm you are referring to Jack? The part number is unknown - do you have any pics please Jack?

Thanks

Tone
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
The clutch release arm that Jack Jr. refers to is for the pre-cowpie transmission. As for the police shifter that bolts to the frame downtube, with the correct and corresponding '65 - '77 shift rod those transmissions can use either the ratchet top or the jockey top. As for the rocker clutch pedal, they were designed for the footboards and used the front support as a stop for the pedal, not a bolt. However, without the boards I suppose a long bolt would work, anything to keep the pedal from going over-center like the photo shows. With the fiber washer drag properly adjusted, the pedal should lock down disengaged to the point that you can remove your foot and the pedal should stay down. Makes it easy at a long stoplight.

With the aluminum primary, you will need to use the 1-inch thick aluminum spacer made to go behind the mount, between it and the frame. I can usually cut those down to maybe 7/8ths of an inch to tuck the assembly in a bit. In order for the pedal to affectively stop as designed, you may have to build up the bottom of the pedal with weld so that it can function as designed. We have had to do that to even original pedals in restorations of old knucks and pans so that they work as designed - old worn parts, I reckon.

I did a similar conversion to a '96 FLSTN (5-speed of course) and used a cable which was also available from V-Twin. However, if you can modify your arm or come up with a specific arm for that application, a rod would certainly be better, IMO.

Also, I have never seen a factory hand-shift Harley with a cowpie transmission and do not see anything like that listed in any of my parts books. If someone can give me that info, I would also be interested as I have a spare cowpie trans (though I dislike that Sportster-like gear selector in the top). Otherwise, I have considered disembowling it for the gears to go in a ratchet top trans.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,101 Posts
The Poilce Jocky or Tank shift was last offerd in 77 with the last of the Ratchet lids, It was discontinued with the indroduction of the Cowpie trans, you need to change to the Ratchet trans.

And I have done the 78-85 guts conversion in the 65-77 case, takes output saft gear seal parts from both and you need to bore out the bearing hole to the OD of the 78-85 seald bearing for it to work, after that its nice........Roach.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
Hey Tone,
I've been using the same set up you have for quite a few years now, with some mods.
I use a shortened cable with a heim joint on one end and the ferrule on the other end (for the release arm). Got it from Rick LaBriola.
http://lajockeyshifter.com/

I also had to fabricate a cable perch to mount to the clutch pedal bracket for one end of the cable, and the other end (release arm) I was able to keep stock.
I don't use the spring on the pedal, cause it makes it easier to feather when you take off from a stop, if that makes any sense.
I use floor boards. And since I'm running a belt, I trimmed down my outer cover so the pedal wouldn't hit it when dis/engaging the clutch.
Heres a couple of pics, sorry they're not that great.

skinny

Photobucket

Photobucket
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,101 Posts
Nice job Skinny!!!

I hooked one up to a five speed on a replaca police bike, but same concept. Had to custom order the cable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
Thanks Roach !!
They work like a charm when you set-em up right.

skinny
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lol

That's a neat job Skinny. I've chased up the LaBriola lead - thanks.

Can I just ask, I understand that the release arm/cable end remains standard but on the pedal end I see you've got a cable perch to hold the cable but cant make out what's happening behind the pedal. Would you explain how the heim joint/cable system works please? What have you got the heim joint mounted too please?

It looks really neat

Thanks

Tone
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top