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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
78 fxs

when i got the bike, it felt like it was wanting to creep a little in first but besides that, it rode otherwise fine. i looked thru the manual at the maintenance section for clutch adjustment. my clutch arm was almost resting against the starter housing so i decided to adjust it like the book says.

so now the clutch arm is about 1/2"out from the starter housing and it doesn't want to go into first, and when it did it grinded something awful and wanted to pull away. it woulda ran into the back of the garage if i wasn't on the brake. so i shut it off, popped it back in neutral and ran to the computer.

before i do anything else, what should i do?

this is my first experience with an HD clutch/trans so this is going to be a learning experience for me.

thanks in advance for your input.
 

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have you just got this bike? its poss that the pri chain and clutch hub has been off and the key is riding on the shaft.

Ive seen this +all measurements are according to the manual but it just dont seem right......if the key is holding the hub out further LEFT of the trans then all measurements will look right but it never will be and itll remain a head scatcher.

adjusting the centre screw on clutch in until the plates move ,then back the screw off 1/2 turn = that will allow the plates to slip , at this point slippin is a hell of alot better than ripping thru the shed wall .
youll find there will be 1/2 inch between arm and starter.

you might want to get a measure of the chain gap between pri cover surface and chain at the front AND the rear to get a ruff idea of alignment.
the manual has spacing measurement from pri surface to alt cover and clutch + this is done with the pri chain etc removed.

this is no night mare but may seem so if youve never done it.
if some one else chimes in , I reakon its the key riding high= wedgie
 

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I assume, you opened the primary and started there. Loosen the clutch cable, until the clutch handle pulls all the way in. Look at the clutch in the opening, and check the spring pressure and the pressure plate measurement(I believe it is 15/16ths from clutch plate to the outer spring retainer), then you are ready to adjust the clutch rod clearance. Loosen the 9/16ths nut, and loosen the screw. Screw the screw back in, until it snugs, and you will notice that the clutch handle will start to inch out to regular position. Adjust the screw, until you have a tight handle, then back off, until you have about 1/8th of a inch of play at the cable ferrel, lock the 9/16ths nut. Now, pull the clutch handle, and adjust the final play with the adjuster on the cable. If it still drags, it may be the clutch plates are gummed up, or a bad cable.
 

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adjusting the centre screw on clutch in until the plates move ,then back the screw off 1/2 turn = that will allow the plates to slip , at this point slippin is a hell of alot better than ripping thru the shed wall .
youll find there will be 1/2 inch between arm and starter.

If you use this system, you will eat the throw out bearing, or the push rod, depending on which decides to go first. The push rod, HAS to have a slight clearance, or the throw out bearing is under pressure and will, WILL fail, then eat the push rod. And you will be back to worse than before. Fix it right, and it will last a long time
 

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**I hear you on that 1 but this is to find what hes descibing.

I pulled my bike out of the HD dealer 17 years ago for a key riding high , I just bought it and had to find the problem myself and it led me back to the key on the shaft. *If left with continual presure on the rod and throw out ,it would burn the bearing =wafer.

his description is the arm is hitting the starter !!..AND grinding.
once his problem is fixed then standard adjust will work.
from where I am I have to guess you guys are out of winter which could mean gummed up plates from sitting?
(spring= 1 1/32 )
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
i bought it in december and it had been sitting for a few years. after i got it i rode it twice then started working on it.

i pulled the cover off and just did what the book said, but i like the method y shovithead posted better.

just to clarify, when the lever was up against the starter, it felt pretty good.

after i attempted to adjust it it was all boo-boo.

i'm gonna go back and look at it again.

thanks.
 

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make sure everything is "ok"...I was having trouble with "jerking" or grabbing at on point on mine.......come to find out, the clutch hub liner broke loose....
 

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youve got a 78 ...IF its stock then its got a ratchet box with the round looking shifter drum on the left side ,that the gear change rod is attached..?
now thing is , that arm isnt supposed to be up against the starter so obviously (Im blind here and in another country) theres something going on if your hearing grinding.
On the right side of gear box theres a filler plug , if you remove that youll be able to see in the hole with a torch and theres you oil slinger and the wafer bearing, if that sucker is off or the slinger is waving around youll see. you can reach up and pull the clutch lever if you turn the forks to the left and your on the right looking in. youll see the movement of push rod.
now by me saying its better to let it slip is only in this case so your not flying thru the wall. the manual set up proceedure is the go.
when you see the wafer bearing youll see how flimsy they are , side note they are replaceble with a kit which reverts to the OLD mushroom throw out bearing which is tuffer and has larger surface area.
I see you got a **transmission shop** so I guess you are well set up .
there are ALOT of old school guys on this site and in no way am I trying to steal the show .

**shovithead knows his stuff and been around alot longer than I , there can be a string of things going on in your bike , Im only going on whats presented and by description.
 
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