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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figured I'd do a quick post on this, since I hadn't done it before, and I couldn't find a lot of information on it.
  1. Number one, you'll need a special 57/64-24 tap. These are 50 to $60 so you'll need to factor that into whether you really want to do this modification. I see no way to do the modification without one.
  2. Decide on a length of the grip, keeping in mind that only the last inch or to will be a "grip", and the rest will just be the smooth metal sleeve.
  3. Cut the bars and sleeve to the same length. Neither need to be .001 accuracy, but you'll want them a close and as square as possible.
  4. Lastly I would recommend using grips that have the same OD throughout so you don't have a weird hump between the grip and sleeve.
  5. Drill bar ends with 7/8" bit
  6. Retap threads using new tap.
  7. Before shortening the grip, make sure to measure an leave enough room for the end nut (inside).
 

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nice job
is that a sort of "back in the day" modification?
I do ride with my hand sort of half on the metal but i don't think I'm chopping my bars just yet.
 

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I am a member of the Seattle Cossacks Motorcycle stunt and drill team, and we all run repop Flanders bars on our team bikes. Early style flanders bars use the shorty spirals. I definitely like the look of them. If you have access to a lathe, it's easy to cut the spirals evenly. I also chucked a piece of 1" tubing in the lathe, and slipped the grips over that temporarily. You can use a knife to cut the grips while the lathe is turning and get them nice and straight. Lastly, give some thought to how short is practical. The chrome part of the spiral is slippery when your hands get sweaty. I am having trouble finding a grip cement that will keep the shortened grips in place. Any suggestions?
 

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Womens hairspray works on some rubber
 

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yes very impressive, nice to see all the spectators smiling (all ages)
Some gymnasts you boys!
 

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I am a member of the Seattle Cossacks Motorcycle stunt and drill team, and we all run repop Flanders bars on our team bikes. Early style flanders bars use the shorty spirals. I definitely like the look of them. If you have access to a lathe, it's easy to cut the spirals evenly. I also chucked a piece of 1" tubing in the lathe, and slipped the grips over that temporarily. You can use a knife to cut the grips while the lathe is turning and get them nice and straight. Lastly, give some thought to how short is practical. The chrome part of the spiral is slippery when your hands get sweaty. I am having trouble finding a grip cement that will keep the shortened grips in place. Any suggestions?
Perhaps knurl that bit underneath the grips or when you have an milling machine with devider you can machine shallow straight slots and super glue the grips.
 

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I figured I'd do a quick post on this, since I hadn't done it before, and I couldn't find a lot of information on it.
  1. Number one, you'll need a special 57/64-24 tap. These are 50 to $60 so you'll need to factor that into whether you really want to do this modification. I see no way to do the modification without one.
  2. Decide on a length of the grip, keeping in mind that only the last inch or to will be a "grip", and the rest will just be the smooth metal sleeve.
  3. Cut the bars and sleeve to the same length. Neither need to be .001 accuracy, but you'll want them a close and as square as possible.
  4. Lastly I would recommend using grips that have the same OD throughout so you don't have a weird hump between the grip and sleeve.
  5. Drill bar ends with 7/8" bit
  6. Retap threads using new tap.
  7. Before shortening the grip, make sure to measure an leave enough room for the end nut (inside).
Very nice. Thank you for the info on the tap size. I will order one because I am working on some older bikes (1948) and that may come in handy, and I wondered what size it would be.
 

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Nice groove even on stock HD grips. I safety wire all mine. Twice around with safety wire, tighten, cut twist short, and tuck into the grip. Many grips have the grooves especially dirt bike grips.
 

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Very nice. Thank you for the info on the tap size. I will order one because I am working on some older bikes (1948) and that may come in handy, and I wondered what size it would be.
Having taps and dies ready when you need them is always a good idea. If you do not need something right away put a search on that auction site for the size and click on price and shipping lowest and over time you will find very reasonable prices for things.
 

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cut mine down in 2015 using the same method, buying the drill tap and everything. worked very well.
i ended up wrapping them in textile electrical tape ( i use it for the kicker pedal as well) to stop the slipping.
that makes them much more grippy. i use a drop of super glue on the very end of the wrap to prevent it
from getting loose and unwrap itself, works very well.
cloth handle bar wrapping tape for road race bicycles works as well and is a little rougher in texture.
on the new handle bars i use even shorter spirals and it works and looks fine for me.

1st version from 2015 before the change



2nd version from this year



i really don't like the look of the super long oem spirals somehow, never did.
 

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The new hanglebars look real good, by the way. Other ones made my wrists hurt to look at (I know photographs don't necessarily tell the truth, though).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am a member of the Seattle Cossacks Motorcycle stunt and drill team, and we all run repop Flanders bars on our team bikes. Early style flanders bars use the shorty spirals. I definitely like the look of them. If you have access to a lathe, it's easy to cut the spirals evenly. I also chucked a piece of 1" tubing in the lathe, and slipped the grips over that temporarily. You can use a knife to cut the grips while the lathe is turning and get them nice and straight. Lastly, give some thought to how short is practical. The chrome part of the spiral is slippery when your hands get sweaty. I am having trouble finding a grip cement that will keep the shortened grips in place. Any suggestions?
Grip glue, but let it cure fully. Also, get a grip suited for the 36-48: my limited experience with later grips was that they didn't fit as well the proper grips.

Like Capt Fred said, textile tape works well, and some guys use a spiral of twine under the tape. We'll see how the chrome goes, I figured I'd try it first.
 

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it definitely looks nice :cool:

i'v ridden the grips with bare chrome for some years, and it was fine, unless it started raining.
the upside on wrapping them is that even if water gets under the rubber and loosens my hair spray glue, the rubber stays put.
that was another reason for me to wrap them.
 
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