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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I just dropped my freshly rebuilt motor into my 71 TR6C. I've got a brand new, still in the box Amal carb that I thought I'd throw on, to replace the old one. The bike was still running when I pulled everything apart 3 months ago, so I could throw the old one back on if I need to.

The new carb looks basically the same, except for a few details which lead me to believe I'd have some trouble just popping it on. For instance, the fuel inlet on the old carb has the two nipples, and the new one has only one. It looks like I can change them if I want to, but I'm assuming the new carb is inteded for use on a dual carb head right??? That'd make the jet a little smaller no?

The numbers on my old carb are R 932 30
The new one is R 300 930

Not sure what order those nubers are supposed to be written in... Can anyone tell me a little about them?

Thanks
-B
 

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ive been told (and have found out 1st hand) that the slides/bodies wear out quite a bit in the old amals. i have a single carb head & a 932 concentric & when i popped the top i noticed that the slide has about a 1mm gap between itself and the body = no good. [im actually in search of a 932 body & slide, new if anyone has them]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not fitting different pipes at this point... Just gonna wrap 'em to hide the rust at the top... I know... Ghetto, but I'm in the middle of remodeling two shitters, so cash is king.

Even if I was fitting new pipes though, what would that do for me, seeing as they would probably be similar to the stockers?

Thanks
-B
 

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Amal carbs do wear out pretty quick 'cos they are made from 'monkey metal' It's a good idea to use a thick heat resistant gasket, about 1/4" thick, easily available. Mind you even when they are badly worn your bike will still run, it might spit back through the carb and 'hunt' a bit on idle but hey, it's a british bike. As for the single and duel fuel bangos, it makes no difference if you use it as single or twin carb set up. Another tip is not to over tighten the carb when bolting it up to the head 'cos that can cause it to warp and you will then be plagued with air leaks.
 

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I agree with Matt, but will add that the slide air cut away has a function and is differant between single and twin applications. The single usually has a 3and1/2 air cut away and twin has 3 which meters air intake important for low end use. Slides altho they wear can be somewhat sloppy and are easy to replace both labor and cost. The other thing to check is jeting, check your old one against your new one. Same jets and needle setting as old one will put in in the ballpark with a minimum of set up. Look and check before you put it on and save time and aggrevation. Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It does help... I'll check the jets. I'm still curious about how differnt pipes will effect it though. I understand the principle behind different pipes, but on a somewhat stock application? Also I should mention I'm junning a 20t front sprocket, so when you mention low end, how do you think that'll effect? It slowes the motor down, so that would be an ideal setup right?

-B
 

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sorry if its a bit of a hi-jack but i think we're on the same page.

1. could i get away with just getting a new slide & keep the original body? where can i buy these parts?

2. my motor is worked - 650 trump, single carb, .040 over, hot cams, milled head, open stock header pipes, etc. are there any recommendations for a baseline carb setup for what ive got?
 

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I've had great results getting the old carbs resleeved. This fixes a lot of the leakage and sticking issues and it seems to help prevent it from happening again.
Gives you back some controll over your idle too.. There are a bunch of shops that do this service but here's one that explains what they do.

http://www.amalsleeve.com/

sojerscraper said:
sorry if its a bit of a hi-jack but i think we're on the same page.

1. could i get away with just getting a new slide & keep the original body? where can i buy these parts?

2. my motor is worked - 650 trump, single carb, .040 over, hot cams, milled head, open stock header pipes, etc. are there any recommendations for a baseline carb setup for what ive got?
 

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I don't get it (well, maybe I do); why sleeve the cheap, easy-to-replace part (the slide) with steel so that it will wear out the expensive part (the body)?

I think there are people who flame-spray the slides and body so neither will wear in our lifetimes? Also hard anodizing?
 
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