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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This was a heart breaker. Stupid on my part and a shame.

3 or 4 years ago I picked up a delcron lower end to make a stroker. Put it in a plastic box and put it in my garage to wait for me to get the money. You guessed it, I put it under a hidden leak. And water somehow got in.

I am ready to start it, pulled it out and found this mess. I do have some mechanics I can talk to, but I am wondering what can be saved and what is just a lost cause. And what I can do to start the process. Funds are still limited, so I will do as much clean-up as I can.

This sucks, is my stupid fault. But, I do need to make the best of this crap.













 

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Take the cases apart and scrub off all the steel parts with WD40 and a green scotchbrite pad. If you are lucky most is just cosmetic damage. Look for deep pits as they can become stress risers and always get new springs.
 

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I've seen a lot worse cases brought back to life. Looks ok to me. Strip it down and maybe soak the rusty parts in vinegar, seems to work well for petrol tanks so it should clean those up a treat and then just replace what you can't salvage.

Or send it to me and I will love it lots :D

Cheers Dan.
 

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You must be sick, because I am. I have had similar things happen, but never a motor, or that bad. Bead or water blast the wheels and rods, replace the bearings and anything deeply pitted. Just remember, it would be better to put it back away(of course in a confirmed dry spot) and start the buying process all over again. If you try to "get by" with using any of this, you will pay again, and probably through the nose. It is things like this, that teach us a lesson. The School of Hard Knocks diploma is in the mail.
 
G

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Big time "BUMMER"

But it's not all that bad....

Looks like stock rods are in it...And perhaps flywheels...
To me ....Those Cases are screaming for a 4-1/2 stroke...S&S Rods or H-Beams and a 3-5/8 big bore....Sweet 93" motor by the time it's all put back together....

.......................But......I'm a Gear Head......................



.....This info may need a gain of Salt to go with it...!!
...................Or Two Shots of Jim Bean....................

=======================================================

Hey Glenn.....

Looks like a Repeat....But for the Rust...

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G

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It doesn't look to bad. Do the rods and flywheels move? If so you can fix it cheap with some work. It just looks worse I think.
 

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I'm with Drag on this one, toss the crank and go with a 4 1/2, bore out the jugs, upgrade to evo lifters and for the price of a new twinky you could build a shovel that'll smoke em.
 

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tear down, have the crank & rods bead-blasted & re-polish the journals. add some new bearings & you're back in business. thoroughly clean those oil passages with a bore brush.

the white pistons, rings and valvetrain are garbage unfortunately. but the big parts will probably clean up just fine.
 

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I've seen a lot worse cases brought back to life. Looks ok to me. Strip it down and maybe soak the rusty parts in vinegar, seems to work well for petrol tanks so it should clean those up a treat and then just replace what you can't salvage.

Or send it to me and I will love it lots :D

Cheers Dan.
Have to agree, I've seen far worse brought back to life.
 

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new bearings,rings and wristpins.a lot of cleaning.at least rust is removeable,I think you may be out of a lot of spare time but stick with it.it could be far worse
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Looks like it really could have been much worse. There is a bit of light pitting on the cases, but not bad. There was still assembly lube on the bearings. And the whole rotating assemble started to move freely without even grit after I got off one side.

Can anyone look and tell me what specifically I have for rods or flywheels or pistons?

And what does the vinegar do? I have a friend who does electrolysis on steel where he just washes off the rust. Would that hurt anything?

Thanks for the help.



















 

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Big time "BUMMER"

But it's not all that bad....

Looks like stock rods are in it...And perhaps flywheels...
To me ....Those Cases are screaming for a 4-1/2 stroke...S&S Rods or H-Beams and a 3-5/8 big bore....Sweet 93" motor by the time it's all put back together....

.......................But......I'm a Gear Head......................



.....This info may need a gain of Salt to go with it...!!
...................Or Two Shots of Jim Bean....................

=======================================================

Hey Glenn.....

Looks like a Repeat....But for the Rust...
I agree Jesse,those cases are screaming "STROKER".

Glenn
 

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Those are1970 thru 80 74"OHV flywheels not early style.Uses A timken bearing on the left side and a double row straight roller on the right.
 
G

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I didn't know Delcron cases worked with early (roller bearing) flywheels.
The casting numbers on the flywheel has #####-41
Harley used this number from 1941, all the way up to 77 until they went to the 80 inch wheels....The 80" have a casting number that ends with -78

Those wheels are FL 3-31/32 stroke....74 cubic inch.

Kinda a shame for them to be in those Bad-To-The-Bone cases...

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Also .... A look at the deck surface shows alot of meat...These cases are for the stock bore jugs of the FL's 3-7/16" or 80" jugs (3-1/2" bore or .060 oversize of the 74" jugs)

Again.... Begging for more...They are...!!

3-5/8 jugs is just the perfect bore size for them....If they was Hi-Deck cases from Delkon they could support 3-13/16" bore... I have done that bore on the stock deck height Delkon's and Stock Harley cases...Not much meat is to be seen at the center of the bores..
I don't recommend doing that bore size unless Hi-Deck cases are in use....

The below photo show how thin the case gets to with the 3-13/16 bore...
These cases are Harley.



And did blow up in that section.... This is a repair that has been done...





The insert was made from steel without a bore going all the way though...As it once was...



The Delkon's would have a better chance of staying together with this HUGE bore being their casting is super thick....But would be the same in the area of between the bores. Unless Hi-Deck cases was being used.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is that the bolt shaft showing through the other side?;} That is pretty impressive in itself and then the repair is cool too.

I agree with the "begging to be stroked" too. That is actually why I bought this motor. But, I have never had a stroked motor before. I have had 74's and 80's with cams and head work that made a lot of difference over stock.

Thanks for the recommendations. So, what I am hearing is 4 1/2" stroke and 3 5/8 bore.

Do I need forged or dome pistons, h-beam rods? What kind of head work should be done? Preferred cam for this set up?

I typically use S&S super B, E, or G (on my evo with lots of work done, but still not stroked)

I guess I am asking
1: is there a huge advantage for a stroked motor over the normal performance stuff? (cam, carb, head work, etc.)
2: What is the CI for that setup?
3: What other things need to be done to make the motor last and do what it should do?
Any other advice is welcome. You offer and I will pick your brain till there is nothing left.

thanks guys.
 
G

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Is that the bolt shaft showing through the other side?;} That is pretty impressive in itself and then the repair is cool too.

Yes....The bolt that can be seen at the back of the case got trimmed for the jug to sit down in the case bore...

I agree with the "begging to be stroked" too. That is actually why I bought this motor. But, I have never had a stroked motor before. I have had 74's and 80's with cams and head work that made a lot of difference over stock.

Thanks for the recommendations. So, what I am hearing is 4 1/2" stroke and 3 5/8 bore.

Could go more on the Stroke....4-5/8 would get it to 96 cubes, 4-3/4 = 98" and a 5" stroke would be 103"
The 4-1/2 stroke would give you near stock life from your motor..

Do I need forged or dome pistons, h-beam rods? What kind of head work should be done? Preferred cam for this set up?

The Boy's at S&S Cycle has a Big Bore Kit under one part number for all that will be needed ....Comes complete with Jugs, Pistons, Gaskets and all Hardware....Can choose between two compression ratios...

You can bolt down stock heads (After the cut for the Big Bore is done)...Other work on the heads is optional...

Same with the cam....Strokes can handle more duration.


I typically use S&S super B, E, or G (on my evo with lots of work done, but still not stroked)

Super-E would be the carb of choice....

I guess I am asking
1: is there a huge advantage for a stroked motor over the normal performance stuff? (cam, carb, head work, etc.)

Increasing the displacement will net you more pony's than all the other put together.

2: What is the CI for that setup?

Cubic Inch...???
Not sure of your question....


3: What other things need to be done to make the motor last and do what it should do?

Change the oil, Keep it well in tuned
.. And ride

Any other advice is welcome. You offer and I will pick your brain till there is nothing left.

thanks guys.
My brain is like a watermelon patch in late Season....It's done been Picked..:D

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