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I've been reading Irish Rich's Horse articles on running hard lines. I figured I could give it a try and I have a few questions.

The article mentioned to use 37 AN flares but the instructions showed 45 inverted flares. Are 37 AN flares for all motorcycle fittings, or all motorcycle brake fittings? If I just want to do oil lines (not fuel or brake), then can I just use regular 45 inverted flares?

3/8 tubing seems to be mentioned the most for oil lines so I'm guessing it's ok. How can I tell if tubing at the hardware store is seamless or not? Stupid question I know, but will the seam be visible? All the copper line that I saw didn't seem to have a seam.

Anyone have any tips or photos of their own bike with hard lines?

Thanks,
Jim
 

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No, you need to read the articles again. I talked about the differences between the 37 degree AN flares, and the 45 degree flares in Part 2 of my article, so people wouldn't think you could mix and match flares/fittings, and not expect them to leak.

The 45 degree flares were done to show the 'mechanics" of making single and double flares, use what you wish. Sometimes single flares are fine (stainless tubing, for example), other times not(like steel "bundyflex" tubing in brake line use).

You can use 37 degree AN flares and fittings, 45 degree flares and fittings, or you don't even have to do any tubing flaring, and just go with a swedge-type fitting.

I would recommend you go with a double flare if you use copper, if you don't go with swedge-type fittings.
 

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isnt all copper lines rolled with a seam?

I'd use stainless if you plan on riding it a good deal.
but I guess that doent really look as cool
 

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I ran hard lines on my shovel the first time I built it. they looked super cool, all polished fittings and lines. the problem I had was the vibration eneded up cracking the feed line and the pump cavitated. it ended up running the front cylinder dry and costing me a new piston,pin and jug. I like he look of hard lines but I learned my lesson. the absorb all the vibration.

just my 2c
FED
 

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I used tranny lines from NAPA. Then I heated the ends to anneel them softer for the new flares. I had to run from the front of the motor to reach the new spin on oil filter, then back to the pump/tank etc. So I used a soft rubber joint under the timing cover so you cant see it, I also put in a soft section in another hidden spot. It stifles the vibrations and I have not had any cracking issues.
 

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Kinda yes, but I hid the flexi sections to fool the eye. Ya cant see em unless you look. Also, I used clear oil line under the nosecone (to & from oil filter) when I did it so I could confirm oil flow, I was gona change em to black rubber but they seem to be holding up well.

 

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Are the flaring tools easy to get in the US..? I wanna go with hard lines on my next bike..

I could borrow the tools from work, but since I won't be working there anymore by the end of Januari.........
I don't know about the availability over here, since it's all US sized stuff (I'd have to check the Snap On catalogue)...

What do you guys like the best, copper or stainless steel lines..?

BTW.. Rich, did you get my message the other day..?
 

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Flyin' Dutchman said:
Are the flaring tools easy to get in the US..? I wanna go with hard lines on my next bike..

I could borrow the tools from work, but since I won't be working there anymore by the end of Januari.........
I don't know about the availability over here, since it's all US sized stuff (I'd have to check the Snap On catalogue)...

What do you guys like the best, copper or stainless steel lines..?

BTW.. Rich, did you get my message the other day..?
Maurice, the solution for your quest is only 20 miles away.
I have a double flaring set in US sizes.

-Marc
 
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