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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been having trouble getting my mid controls setup so they shift nicely. I eliminated the factory short linkage setup because mine was all wore out but it’s looking like I’ll need it back on there. Anyone else running mids with the rotary top trans?
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you need the short rod as well as the extra leverage it gives helps get gears easier than without, I tried the same with forwards & ended up getting the short rod & it is real slick now
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also, going by your fulcrum point, I dont think the angles of both operating levers is correct,...
it looks way way off,
in this rough drawing, the two red lines should be as paralell as you can get them or you lose leverage & movement making shifting harder,
if they are not, you might find lengthing or shortning the connecting rod will bring them to a more pa
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ralell
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thats the closest I can get it before I I run out of stroke or the arm hits the engine case. I’ll try a new stock style linkage and shorten my brass linkage accordingly to try.
also, going by your fulcrum point, I dont think the angles of both operating levers is correct,...
it looks way way off,
in this rough drawing, the two red lines should be as paralell as you can get them or you lose leverage & movement making shifting harder,
if they are not, you might find lengthing or shortning the connecting rod will bring them to a more pa View attachment 273048 ralell
 

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Your lever on the trans if made longer, that would solve the problem. It looks from you picture you have room to do that. The factory Rube Goldberg design was because of oil tank interference. It also appears your lever for the shift pedal is shorter than stock this is a help. The length above the heim joint on the forward linkage is what you would need to increase the length of the rear lever if the stock shift pedal linkage was being used. It your shift pedal linkage is shorter, your rear arm on the trans would need less lengthening than for a stock shift pedal linkage.
 

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If I may ask a slightly sidetracked question, is there any practical difference in how well the FX/top angle levers vs the FL lower angled levers actually shift and function on the rotary tops?

My 84 FX has the FX type lever setup, I plan to change it to the FL style, the FX/top shifter connections always looked odd to me when used with forward or FL shifters compared to the FL style that attach on the lower side of the old ratchet tops.
 

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The linkages do the same thing. But are made for actuation from different angles. With forwards either will work, with mids the FL/FXWG style will be at a poor angle, if you where to shorten the lever on the mids shifter shaft it may work better.
 

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Thanks.

If no mechanical advantage of the fx/top actuating style, lll continue to remove whatever vestiges of them there still are on the bike. My bike had Perfomance Machine forwards on it when I got it, but Im changing it to FL shift and brake controls with halfmoon footboards, like my knuckle and 76 FX had. Ive rounded up the FL lower actuating linkage parts to put on it when I get the chance to pull the inner primary.
 
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