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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Working on installing a new stator and I've gotten the compensator nut off and the clutch hub nut off but can't find a good explanation for pulling the clutch hub. I'm looking for a good video on my whole process here or just the clutch hub but I can't find shit.
 

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I use a harmonic balancer puller. You will need to find some washers to use in the center of the hub. I use a big angled washer taken off a truck shock absorber mounting bolt.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=harmonic+balancer+puller
I bought my kit at Advance Auto. You can also rent them there. This kit had a piece missing, so they sold it to me at a loss instead. The missing piece I didn't and still don't need, but I've got a lovely capable puller kit and I'm happy.
Alex
 

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I made mine form a harbor freight "puller" and some scrap metal (I think it was old mower blades)... I made sure I kept the clutch fingers straight. ...I also discovered a little "heat" was needed due to a bit of locktite used on the taper...
I put tension on the hub ( puller bolt tight) ...added a LITTLE heat (propane) and the clutch hub "popped" loose....
 

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please remember that Morse Tapers, like on a clutch hub and shaft should be assembled DRY !!!... it's how they are designed to work...putting anything on the taper can bugger it up or prevent the taper from locking as it should.... and Torque it up as it should be with a proper Torque Wrench....Over tightning can also bugger things up...... oil,loctite,instant gasket WHATEVER does NOT belong there, dry with a de-greaser and assemble.
 

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Using loctitie on the tapers all depends on what year service manual you read. Harley approved of loctite on tapers in some. Here's an example: ASSEMBLY On early 1981 and earlier models apply 640 retaining compound to shaft tapers as shown in figure 3-60 . Although I do really agree magnum Pete this is from a H-D manual . I have used it on tapers and the flywheels did true up. Oil and overtightening will always screw up wheels .
 
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