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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
ok,,so this trike was raked,,wanna clean it up and redo it. Wondering if anyone has done this ,,and done it this way. Have a donor neck ,,planned to cut and join in marked spots, then plate both sides all the way back to seat post.
 

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If it were mine, I'd cut up along the red line up about half way through the neck forging (in line with the top tube). I'd leave the neck attached there and cut out and clean up all of the gumball plates. Then I'd make a cut on top of the neck forging, leaving the neck hinged so that I could derake it to what ever I wanted. After I got it where i wanted, I'd make a new web, between the neck and the frame forging (sorta triangle shaped) out of 1/4" plate and tack it in. Check alignment and then weld a piece of 1/4" X 1" strap welded along the bottom of the plate similar to stock Harley or aftermarket frames and weld it all up.
Larry T
 

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^^ what Larry said... (if you want to keep the forged, original look..)
If it's going to ba a custom, then I would cut it completely and redo the front section with new tubing.. (no casting)
 

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Larry & Danny have your answers ^^^


I wouldn't plate it all the way back to the seatpost....that's WAYYYYY overkill.
(and I'm someone who definately tends to overbuild things too.)
 

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From the posts Ive seen of yours , your into the old stuff, Id use the whole casting ...the long way round!
Both pics have the back bone cut , 2nd pic has only back bone cut.
Those originally brazed together Im guessing???.


Larry T = right if thats the choice. Ive heard of NUTS or any shit being welded into a raking gap then filled with BOG!!
So yours not the worst in town.

Maybe cut off shit from doner then take to a frame guy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)

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Kinda off topic, but back in the good ol days when folks were raking any and everything, a pretty common method was to cut the neck forging from the bottom up, cut a wedge out of the top tube and pull the neck out to where you wanted it. Then you cut a wedge and welded it into the gap. It works on about anything and folks figured the rake by the gap on the bottom.

So when you asked how much something was raked, it was pretty common to get an answer like 1/2" and everyone knew how much that was. 3/4" was real close to 10 degrees on a big twin.

I always thought it was a lot cleaner (and safer) to replace the whole triangular web than to weld in a wedge, when you could. Of course we usually welded in some plates on the outside to make molding easier too and that added a little more strength. I've seen lot of bikes raked and then the neck filled up with bondo to smooth everything out.

What I suggested to Scavanger was just sort of reverse raking. I've done that to several bikes in the last 15-20 years and don't think there have been any problems. At least I haven't heard of any of them coming apart.
Larry T

BTW filling or putting a panel in between the top tubes works on some bikes and not so much on others. I guess it gives a custom painter a couple more panels to work with, but it makes some bikes look top heavy. It all depends on the look the owner wants.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thing I seem to run across is,,even though most folks say " I would never ride that " it's like pulling teeth to get the crap off,,lol I mean even though it looks like shit,,its tight.

Have to still peel a few more plates off to see what was actually done

I would goose neck it if the top tube was'nt replaced and butchered in,,still have to see how well the seat post end of it is
 

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Theres not many trikes down this way , Ivce only seen 2 , 1 had mags + teles up front , the other was a Rikuo .
The necks the same casting as WL isnt it ? either way I went scounging thru pics of Indian single plate weld.
 

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Also, once you've ground out the side plates wou might find the rest is mostly under there. Bend it back and weld it up. I've done a WLA frame that was like that in the last year or so.
 

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Clean it up see what you got. then change it back. If it is a real hack job replace all suspect metal. But if you feel you need to add plates or more gusseting just do the fit up, leaving gaps so it can be welded 100%, tack it and take it to a real welder. There is more than enough metal in the casting.
 
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I'm thinking that the above neck forging from Tedd's Cycle is for the 74" not a 45"
Looks to be the 1948 to 68, 30 degree..

There are a few shops making frame's for the 45" with the 7/8" stem and cups...

Could get pieces from them to do you neck perhaps...

http://www.paughco.com/2008-catalog/indivpages/Harley-Davidson%20Special%20Order%20Frames%20For%2045%22%20Engines%20From%20Paughco.html

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