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Discussion Starter #1
I really need some input here and have searched and searched with no success. I'm running a 4 speed rachet top trans and a primo 2 inch belt drive. To give a little backround here this is a bike that was typically a 1 or 2 kick and go every time without fail.
I recently had to replace my clutch and never thought I would be having this many problems now. I replaced the friction discs, set the pressure plate and springs, and up until then everything went pretty well. I let out out all the slack in the clutch cable and made sure the transmission arm was all the way back. I then turned the adjustment screw until I could feel it just touching the throwout bearing and then backed off about a 1/4 turn and tightened her down. Next I adjusted the slop out of the clutch cable and everything appears to be good, clutch activates when lever squeezed, not too much tension in the lever ect ect. I'm ready to start and ..... nothing, I mean nothing I managed to get her started one time after numerous attempts. I could easily pay my local shop to fix this but I want to wrench on my own and really understand the bike. Thanks for any input. -Drew
 

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Is the clutch hub key intact?
 

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Can you define, "Nothing"....No fire, No Kick, (Slips?? when you kick is the engine actually spinning over)...what is the actual problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Can you define, "Nothing"....No fire, No Kick, (Slips?? when you kick is the engine actually spinning over)...what is the actual problem.
Sorry for that, the bike seems to kick over just fine but no fire at all, the engine visually appears to be turning over with no slip.
 

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Are you sure your engine is turning over when you're kicking it or is it stopping on the compression stroke? It might seem like it's turning completely over but it might not be. If your primary is open, look behind the clutch hub, on the mainshaft and see if the key is intact.
 

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Check the clutch hub key as stated above. You should be able to look behind the hub and rotate the kicker and eventually see the very back side of the key. If the key isnt there, the taper could be holding the hub enough to start rotating the engine but then its slipping on the mainshaft once you hit the compression stroke...

The one time you did get it to fire, did you ride it? Did the clutch feel like it was slipping?
 

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That's kinda odd....

The only work you did to it was replace the plates....
You didn't pull the clutch hub off...??

Kinda wild timing for the key to go south at that point in time...

If it was running fine before with no slipping, but for being in high gear and nailing it...you would be feeling the clutch slipping then..
If it was slipping in lower gears....You might have a key problem going on...

Won't hurt to take a look at the key...But I think you may have other problems...

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Is there compression when you kick it? If the clutch hub key is gone there will be no resistance whatsoever when you kick it because your clutch hub won't be spinning and therefore you won't be turning your belt, therefore not turning your engine over.
I'd guess that your issue might be more like ignition. Check fuel flow, plugs and if you run points/condenser ignition thats a good place to start looking too...these are cheap fixes but real important:D
 

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As everyone else has stated, but no one has really said, if the woodruff key in the mainshaft is sheered then when you kick it, the mainshaft will turn, but the clutch basket will not. If you didn't pull the basket and only replaced the plates though, this is unlikely.

If the motor is turning over and the primary is spinning when you kick just like normal, then it has nothing to do with the clutch and it's time to diagnose a different problem.

And 49 Flat posted the same thing right before me, so I have to put in this edit.
 

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If all you did, was replace the clutch plates, then I say that the problem is clutch related. Unless you cut a bunch of wires out of the way. I would back off the cable and clutch adjustment screw, and try to kick it then. If it starts, then it is a clutch adjustment problem. Adjust accordingly.
 

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If all you did, was replace the clutch plates, then I say that the problem is clutch related. Unless you cut a bunch of wires out of the way. I would back off the cable and clutch adjustment screw, and try to kick it then. If it starts, then it is a clutch adjustment problem. Adjust accordingly.
Ditto. It is something you touched.
 

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Here I come with another dumb question.
I was at a friend's place today, and he was tryin' to remove his Primo 1"1/2 belt assembly.
The thing is stucked or maybe we ain't doin' it right... need advices.
Here's where he's at:





Tried to remove it with this but no luck:


What's the next move ?
Do you need a special tool ?

Any help or direction is appreciated.

Vins
 

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Nice Tool....^^^....But not for that clutch...!!!



VT No: 16-0310
Pro clutch puller tool attaches to all Rivera pro-clutches or Primo belt drives diaphragm spring style clutch hubs, allowing easy removal.
Fits:
Special application for Primo brand pro clutches
UOM: 1 - EA
Country of Origin: USA

===============================================================

And your Buddy needs to get one of these ....



VT No: 21-0210
Chrome dust shield covers and shifter lever set covers ratchet drum.
Fits:
FL 1952-1978 Early 1978
FX 1971-1973
UOM: 1 - EA

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